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Hot rod a NA 3.8?

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Kenne Bell did this long time ago...1977 stuff.....
 

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That looks like my old Skyhawk John. I miss my little rocket. What tranny are you running?
 
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/before-black-non-sfi-tech/223883-n-build-pics-inside.html

This is the thread charlief1 was referring to....and my failure to create any progress in the last year :wink:


Looks good, I love the engine color..
What do machine shops use to mill heads, more than a bridgeport???buddy has one, just wondering how much we could do with that? wondering if we could at least modify for the seals and extra lift?
again , just thinking out loud here..
 
I am not exactly sure what machine shops use to surface heads, but that sounds right. As I understand, there is a specific bit or tool used to machine or cut the valve guides. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

If I recall correctly, I spent right around a grand for ALL my machining costs, with the milling of the heads and the valve guide cutting being the least expensive part. I had the rods resized, crank resized, align-honed and bored .030 over, valve seat machined for larger intake valve, and 3 angle valve job and balanced rotating assembly; those were the expensive parts.
 
Looks good, I love the engine color..
What do machine shops use to mill heads, more than a bridgeport???buddy has one, just wondering how much we could do with that? wondering if we could at least modify for the seals and extra lift?
again , just thinking out loud here..

It's called a valve seal cutter. It uses a pilot that goes into the guide to cut it straight and the Chevy small block uses the same size guides. The Chevy seals are some of the best overall but don't get the PC ones made of teflon, get the Viton ones. They last longer
A bridgeport Mill is what is used most of the time but some shops use a big belt sander and aren't as accurate. Make sure which one is used at the shop you pic.
 
I am not exactly sure what machine shops use to surface heads, but that sounds right. As I understand, there is a specific bit or tool used to machine or cut the valve guides. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

If I recall correctly, I spent right around a grand for ALL my machining costs, with the milling of the heads and the valve guide cutting being the least expensive part. I had the rods resized, crank resized, align-honed and bored .030 over, valve seat machined for larger intake valve, and 3 angle valve job and balanced rotating assembly; those were the expensive parts.

Not ready to spend huge money on this, rather tie that up in the GN or the Skylark..
I was however considering messing with the heads a little..
It's called a valve seal cutter. It uses a pilot that goes into the guide to cut it straight and the Chevy small block uses the same size guides. The Chevy seals are some of the best overall but don't get the PC ones made of teflon, get the Viton ones. They last longer
A bridgeport Mill is what is used most of the time but some shops use a big belt sander and aren't as accurate. Make sure which one is used at the shop you pic.

Ah, I see, more than likely my friend will not have this in is tooling collection.Although I will explain to him, and I am sure he will know what it is..Again just a money thing, trying to see if there was something we could pull off ourselves.. Interesting stuff, though, learning a bunch here guys..

I should search more on the head working, I find this interesting..Have like 4 sets of heads laying around..Couldnt hurt to try..
 
Four speed. Will have more pics after BPG.

Start a new thread when you get the pics. Mine had a turbo 200 in it and I went to a 4 speed and then a T50. Then I broke the case in half (sp).:eek: Had a blast with her and I still miss her. Have you welded the body seams up yet? I had to because I ended up twisted the frame.:eek: :biggrin:
 
**** drop the 2 barrel in her and a 200 shot of nos and lets see how far it goes!

wooo hoo

I love carnage.

:eek: A.j.


STill reading bits here and there...Was thinking if I could use the stock 2 bbl at all untill I find a carb and intake
worry about the long block for now
I dont know too much about carbs especially these electronic ones
is it absolutely necesarry to use the ecm ??
 
It depends on whether or not you have to go through emission testing or not. If you have to go through testing and an under hood check then yes, if not that's up to you. To get rid of it you will need a non ECM carb and distributor at the very least. The factory Q-jet for an ecm is a fairly cheap item if you search the yards for them and you might even find a 4.1 intake to go on the car. Do a search on how to do the mods that I posted so you'll get more out of the intake and go from there.
 
I have 85 cutlass with a n/a 231 would like to run a blow thru carb setup,bought a t66 turbo with a .70 a/r compressor and a .63 turbine new to the whole 3.8 scene having trouble finding credible info on what cam and carb to run will be runnin around 5-15 lbs of boost
 
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