This is a GREAT EXHAUST.
Hotair build
- Thread starter 8hotair5
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Possible part of the problem. If those injectors are 42lbs, you have a missed match fuel problem. By not have the adjustable regulator and wrong chip for injectors, this could be worst..
hotairgnx548
hotairgnx548
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2010
- Messages
- 436
You said at some time you want the car to run low 12's and 11's. Since you are rebuilding I'd get 60 lb injectors and a chip to match from TT once you find out what's tore up in the engine. John
Would that cause any running issues going that big now? Sound like a lot of gas for my what my current goals are.
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Toby_Goodmk
Test Fit officianto
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2011
- Messages
- 1,851
I just finished a build and was in a similar situation. Got hold of a car, unknown about the engine found a basket case of issues with internals. Here are my mods with some of the more important things put to bed first in order
1. Hot wired the pump.
2. Chip has to match what you are going to do
3. Scan master needs to tell you what is occurring with the car
4. Down pipe. I found mine on here with a member and got lucky. Brian at Gbodyparts.com will have his H/A DP 3" back instock in a couple weeks.
5. Exhaust system. I put in a test pipe, bought the RJC factory mounted type 3" and love it. Very nice.
6. Made my own cold air intake 4" into 3" very easy to do. It sits in front of the drivers headlights.
7. Go through all the sensors and replace them. If the o2 messes up you will chase problems, same with TPS, etc. Not expensive, just a practice I do when a build starts
8. Electric fans from a 90's dodge intrepid
9 . Adjustable FPR is a must so you can increase boost, injectors, run high octane C16 etc
10. Adjustable wastegate actuator rod
11. Manual boost control
12. 42.5lb injectors
Then all this was installed and idling correct to find major issues with lower end. So.......
Found a 109 Block and went crazy....better to go bigger and plan for MORE MORE MORE now than later.
1. Wiseco Forged pistons with .40 over
2. New cam (need to keep secret on numbers)
3. Ran stock rebuilt factory turbo for a couple runs and went bigger
4. Champion ported irons
5. Champion ported intake. The #2 or 4 runner is badly restricted...cant remember....anyways if its restricted you run a chance to blow head gaskets.
6. Alcohol injection
7. Ported throttle body
8. TA 44 58MM factory housing turbo
9. Billet main caps
10. All ARP hardware
11. High output 87 style coil pack
12. 87 Style crank sensor
13. Ported inlet bell
14. 4" Aluminum Drive Shaft with 1350 U Joints
15. Decided to stick with the factory headers and opened them completely up. THe number 4 tube is severely restricted, but if you open them up....they flow quite well.
16. Stainless steel up pipe from Gbodyparts.com
17. Earl Brown timing cover and oil pump gets me 60 psi of oil pressure at highway cruise, 30 at idle hot engine.
18. HR parts N stuff poly motor mounts
19. Ported the exhaust elbow
All this stuff I sourced with Brian and built the engine beside Brian at Gbodyparts.com for about a month straight. Now the only reason I went with such an extensive build is due to the fact that the older engine was toast, better to go big or go home.
If you open the engine and let it breath it will perform better. You are only as good as your smallest restriction!!! You open the engine up and give it some alcohol......no intercooler needed. I dont have any knock.....no overheated air fuel....but the engine flows as good as you can get it to (until the GBP 3" down pipe arrives)
I was a NA guy, bought a turbo car and have become a guy that understands most if not all the aspects of HA. Study it, make sure it breathes.....(sound like a broken record i know) and make sure you understand how to make the adjustments and how to read all the sensors and what they are telling you.
I look forward to mid 11 seconds.
1. Hot wired the pump.
2. Chip has to match what you are going to do
3. Scan master needs to tell you what is occurring with the car
4. Down pipe. I found mine on here with a member and got lucky. Brian at Gbodyparts.com will have his H/A DP 3" back instock in a couple weeks.
5. Exhaust system. I put in a test pipe, bought the RJC factory mounted type 3" and love it. Very nice.
6. Made my own cold air intake 4" into 3" very easy to do. It sits in front of the drivers headlights.
7. Go through all the sensors and replace them. If the o2 messes up you will chase problems, same with TPS, etc. Not expensive, just a practice I do when a build starts
8. Electric fans from a 90's dodge intrepid
9 . Adjustable FPR is a must so you can increase boost, injectors, run high octane C16 etc
10. Adjustable wastegate actuator rod
11. Manual boost control
12. 42.5lb injectors
Then all this was installed and idling correct to find major issues with lower end. So.......
Found a 109 Block and went crazy....better to go bigger and plan for MORE MORE MORE now than later.
1. Wiseco Forged pistons with .40 over
2. New cam (need to keep secret on numbers)
3. Ran stock rebuilt factory turbo for a couple runs and went bigger
4. Champion ported irons
5. Champion ported intake. The #2 or 4 runner is badly restricted...cant remember....anyways if its restricted you run a chance to blow head gaskets.
6. Alcohol injection
7. Ported throttle body
8. TA 44 58MM factory housing turbo
9. Billet main caps
10. All ARP hardware
11. High output 87 style coil pack
12. 87 Style crank sensor
13. Ported inlet bell
14. 4" Aluminum Drive Shaft with 1350 U Joints
15. Decided to stick with the factory headers and opened them completely up. THe number 4 tube is severely restricted, but if you open them up....they flow quite well.
16. Stainless steel up pipe from Gbodyparts.com
17. Earl Brown timing cover and oil pump gets me 60 psi of oil pressure at highway cruise, 30 at idle hot engine.
18. HR parts N stuff poly motor mounts
19. Ported the exhaust elbow
All this stuff I sourced with Brian and built the engine beside Brian at Gbodyparts.com for about a month straight. Now the only reason I went with such an extensive build is due to the fact that the older engine was toast, better to go big or go home.
If you open the engine and let it breath it will perform better. You are only as good as your smallest restriction!!! You open the engine up and give it some alcohol......no intercooler needed. I dont have any knock.....no overheated air fuel....but the engine flows as good as you can get it to (until the GBP 3" down pipe arrives)
I was a NA guy, bought a turbo car and have become a guy that understands most if not all the aspects of HA. Study it, make sure it breathes.....(sound like a broken record i know) and make sure you understand how to make the adjustments and how to read all the sensors and what they are telling you.
I look forward to mid 11 seconds.
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bobs84ttype
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2006
- Messages
- 354
After looking at the picture you have a lot of wiring going every where. i would suggest starting at the bulkhead just below the wipe motor. removing and taging the wires working your way back to passenger side wheel well. you may need to have the engine accesories removed to get to all the plugs. but it will greatly help in engine removal.
bobs84ttype
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2006
- Messages
- 354
Milton Mckoy
Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2012
- Messages
- 35
Can I use my stock chip on a 86/87 ECM for my 85 GN?
