Hotwire kit killing me

[NY_GN]

First off, bought the car this way. it's a Caspers Hotwire kit.

1. Why is the grey wire from the sending unit spliced into a (red) wire from the relay at the rear bumper? There is also a relay under the hood (drivers side) that is connected to the wiring prior to the Alternator. $#@$#% Why?

2. Relay keeps burning up at the bumper, 4 so far, diagnosed bad connection and working on that, but when I plug the factory wiring in I get nothing. Is that because of the spliced grey wire? New relay under hood on pass fender.

Got a new kit on the way, but I have to eliminate the BS relay and wiring, unless that it something I need. My guess was it was for continuity.

It's not that I don't enjoy keeping spare relays in my pocket to change out in random parking lots, but it's pissing me off.

 

[Nick Micale]

A relay will not last very long if the circuit does not have a proper ground which is true on many of the GN's we have work on and seen.

For years we used a regular hot wire kit to bring good voltage to the fuel pump with a 10 ga. wire, but we used a ground path back to the battery via the frame or body.

After many electrical and fuel pump issues I found out a DC circuit will only transmit enough voltage/current as the "weakest link"?

The chassis and body are a very poor conductors compared to a stranded copper wire of the equal gauge on the positive side.

When we install a fuel pump, or any critical performance item, we make sure power and ground wires are equal in size and conductivity, as well as connecting directly to the source of power - the battery.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

First off, bought the car this way. it's a Caspers Hotwire kit.

Maybe, a call to John, and ask for help??

 

[NY_GN]

Maybe, a call to John, and ask for help??

I don't think the kit is the issue;I think it's the way it was wired.

I was trying to get info on wether or not someone has seen this style of wiring.

 

[bison]

I've posted about hot wiring and grounding multiple times in the last few months. You need good connections period. A ground wire should be run back the the battery or back to the engine minimum and the negative cable from the battery to the block must be in good condition. If it's original then replace it. Ground the frame but not to the frame. Ground the body but not to the body. This applies to any important items like the fuel pump and ignition. These hot wire kits are a bargain and replacing them doesn't take long. Adding a ground takes 5 extra minutes at install. If the sender wires have been cut into you replace the sender or shorten the wires and re-crimp with new pins and seals. If the wire isn't clean copper replace the sender. Bad connections will burn you every time


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[Chuck Leeper]

I don't think the kit is the issue;I think it's the way it was wired.

I was trying to get info on wether or not someone has seen this style of wiring.

John can tell you if it's done correctly, and what to fix, if it's not.....Your choice.