Just to add a bit more info to my last post on this topic. Telling people that the salvage title car was a "Stolen and Recovered" is the most popular reason used. This makes the prospective customer think the car was not damaged--it's often just BS. Trace the title and go over that car with a fine tooth comb; put it on a lift for sure and get a good flash light. Pull up the carpet etc. and check for water damage and so on. How do I know all this stuff?? I was in the insurance salvage business for several years and we also rebuilt a lot of totals, a couple of which were GN's. Also remember, titles can be washed in some states (Ark. used to be a great one) to get a clean title. Needless to say, don't buy anything from the New Orleans area.
My GN is a recovered theft with a salvage title. Not only was it stolen, but it was vandalized and crashed. It is still techically a 'recovered theft' - I don't think CarFax or anything else you could research would tell you that it was in a collision in addition to the theft.
My uncle has been in the salvage business for 40 years. I've seen A LOT of recovered thefts. Even when stolen just for transportation (versus for parting out or to escape from a bank robbery), theives are not easy on the cars they steal. Best case is some steering column and interior damage, but there is almost always some body damage. If it has a salvage title chances are that it was damaged in some way. Insurance companies will only total a car if it's too damaged to repair or if it had been gone for so long that the claim had been paid. Usually the salvage title is due to the former, not the latter.
The first thing you need to do is consider how you will be using the car. When I bought mine, I wasn't concerned with resale. I knew I would keep it for a long time, if not forever, so the investment I was to make was solely based on what it was worth to me to own such a car - not resale. I did get the car cheap enough that even with the salvage title I could break even if I had to.
Look the car over very carefully for signs of body repairs. Many of these cars have had a rough life, though, so evidence of body work doesn't necessarily mean it was a total. Mine was hit in the rear but when I got into repairing it I found that the header panel had been replaced from a prior accident.
All of my daily drivers are also reconstructed totals. You have to choose them carefully and weigh their cost against what you could sell it for if you had to. I use half of full retail value as a ball park of what I'd be willing to spend. I usually run them into the ground so resale is not a concern, but I have been able to turn a couple out years later without taking a beating.
Jim
. thats why you dont buy repos. if they cant make payment they dont take care of car. A lot of people will tell you they would not buy a salvage car.thats until its in front of them for a good price. dont blow it off unless its a real junk.as for the price . post more about the car. miles /condition/ options.that will decide what its worth. me i like to find 2000.00 basket cases. if it does not work out you part it and tripple your money. post pics of car . good luck
