How hard to change springs?

[Mike70gtx]

How hard to change out the springs and shocks. I've had a set of eibachs and bilsteins for two years, I guess it's time to put them on now that I've got my 16 inch gnx wheels and tires. What else should I do when I go through that? I've got a kit to box the control arms, I guess I should try that at the same time.

 

[BlackMetal]

Rear is an easy job. Front can be tricky since you have to move the control arm out of the way, make sure you have a chain on the spring to stop it from flying out. Use the search function up top because there are a few old threads where guys shared their tricks and tips for doing the front springs.

 

[arista5]

i just did mine onw week ago tonight but just the rears.

Jack it up, put the frame on jackstands
let the rear drop all the way and put your jack under it and remove both upper control arm bolts where they meet the rear and also remove the lower shock bolt. (i did both of mine at the same time, some people prefer to do them one side at a time)

push up on the UCA's to seperate from the rear and remove the lower shock from the rear (jack up as needed to relieve the tension)

lower the jack VERY slowly and enough to let the springs pop out.

Replace the springs and reconnect the UCA's (i wouldnt bolt them in yet b/c you will be boxing them) now remove the two bolts holding the top of the shock on (there is a nut behind them) replace with the bilsteins, and put the two upper shock bolts back in.

now i never boxed but i would remove one UCA or LCA at a time to keep every thing in place while boxing (unless youre beinging them somewhere to do) then i would say just the tops or bottoms at a time.

put it back together and take them off the jack stands. minus the boxing time, i would say an hour or so for both sides.

 

[UNGN]

The fronts aren't hard if you leave the shock in place, put a jack under the lower control arm and unbolt the LCA from the frame (after you loosened, but not removed the ball joint nut and popped the ball joint).

To put it back together, put the spring in and reattach the shock. Jack up the LCA and use a big ass screw driver to line up the LCA frame bolts.

With the shock bolted in place there is very little chance of the spring going anywhere during install.

This is the method the factory shop manual uses.

Chains and spring compressor methods are frustrating and suck compared to doing it this way.

 

[BlackMetal]

The fronts aren't hard if you leave the shock in place,

To put it back together, put the spring in and reattach the shock.

???

 

[arista5]

???

i think he means the bottom 2 bolts on the shock. but i could be wrong

 

[Mike70gtx]

Thanks for all the help. UNGN, could you confirm which part of shock to unbolt and when in the process? Thanks

 

[85HOT-T]

Im doing shocks right now, I cant get a wrench on the upper mounts for the rears. Am I missing something? What size is the nut?

 

[jgme]

The description for the front by UNGN is pretty close to the way the service manual describes it. It works. That was my approach.

On the back end just undo the lower shock mounts while the axle is supported with a jack. Lower the axle. Lift out the springs. You may have to lift the opposite side of the axle a little bit from where you are working to provide that extra bit of clearance to get the spring out. Either way it is not a difficult task.

 

[UNGN]

Thanks for all the help. UNGN, could you confirm which part of shock to unbolt and when in the process? Thanks

On removal, you leave the shock in until the tension has been removed from the spring.

On installation, attach the top nut of the shock, slide the spring into place and bolt the lower part of the shock to the LCA, so that everything is hanging loose. Use the floor jack to compress.

 

[jdpolzin]

For the rears, just jack the car up, sit it on jackstands leaving the rear hanging. Take the lower shock mounts loose, then just pull the shock out and replace it. No need to take the rear control arms loose.

The fronts should be done the way UNGN is describing! Presto!

 

[turbofish38]

Damn you guys do things the hard way. On the rears just unbolt the lower shock mounts. The rear aint going to drop low enough so you're going to have to wedge each side to pull a stock length spring out. I use a wall stud as the wood wont mar or do any damage. Just wedge it between the drum and the frame and push down until the spring drops on the ground.


For the fronts do it exactly like it says in the FSM. But take the shock out please. No need to unbolt anything from the frame. Step 1. Remove shock and sway bar link. Step 2. Place floor jack under lower arm. Steps 3 on up. Remove lower ball joint nut. Seperate ball joint from knuckle. Use the floor jack to relieve the tension. The spring will be hung up in the pocket. Take a pry bar and and wedge the spring out of the pocket. You namby pambys can use a chain. A stock spring with the arm pulled all the way down doesn't have much tension on it anyway. It wont fly out at mach 2 and take your digits off or your eyes out. Okay just reverse the procedure on the reinstall. That last inch or so is going to be a PITA. If you have a fat friend have him sit or push down on the front bumper assuming you still have the stock steel part on your car. It's a lot easier if the car isn't resting on any jack stands. When everything comes together put the nut on and put the shock and sway bar link back on. Make sure everything is torque down and Cotter pinned and your good to go. It helps if you have a freind or two to help. With practice or some luck the first spring will take you 2 hours. The second spring will take about an hour or less. Make sure you position the spring properly in the arm pocket and make sure the rubber insulator is on straight between the top of the spring and frame. Be carefull when you drop the arm with the floor jack. The brake splash shield likes to get hung up and you need to pull the knuckle out towards you as you are lowering it. You could always play it safe and pull the rotor and remove the splash shields.:smile:

 

[UNGN]

For the fronts do it exactly like it says in the FSM. But take the shock out please. No need to unbolt anything from the frame. Step 1. Remove shock and sway bar link. Step 2. Place floor jack under lower arm. Steps 3 on up. Remove lower ball joint nut. Seperate ball joint from knuckle. Use the floor jack to relieve the tension. The spring will be hung up in the pocket. Take a pry bar and and wedge the spring out of the pocket. You namby pambys can use a chain. A stock spring with the arm pulled all the way down doesn't have much tension on it anyway. It wont fly out at mach 2 and take your digits off or your eyes out. Okay just reverse the procedure on the reinstall. That last inch or so is going to be a PITA. If you have a fat friend have him sit or push down on the front bumper assuming you still have the stock steel part on your car. It's a lot easier if the car isn't resting on any jack stands. When everything comes together put the nut on and put the shock and sway bar link back on. Make sure everything is torque down and Cotter pinned and your good to go. It helps if you have a freind or two to help. With practice or some luck the first spring will take you 2 hours. The second spring will take about an hour or less. Make sure you position the spring properly in the arm pocket and make sure the rubber insulator is on straight between the top of the spring and frame. Be carefull when you drop the arm with the floor jack. The brake splash shield likes to get hung up and you need to pull the knuckle out towards you as you are lowering it. You could always play it safe and pull the rotor and remove the splash shields.:smile:

How do you get the spring on the LCA perch, lined up properly, without using a compressor or unbolting the LCA from the frame? He-man strength or a large crow bar on the spring? No thanks.

Good luck with this technique with a real set of front springs.

 

[Mike70gtx]

Thanks for all the advice guys. How about we have a contest. Turbofish38 can do one side of my car and UNGN to do the other side and I'll BBQ for the both of you.

 

[UNGN]

Thanks for all the advice guys. How about we have a contest. Turbofish38 can do one side of my car and UNGN to do the other side and I'll BBQ for the both of you.

It would be no contest. My dad bought the service manual tool that hooks onto the LCA and gives the floor jack a nice surface to sit level on (he doesn't have the "keep doing it wrong until you get it right" gene that I was born with).

I'd just borrow that instead of using the piece of 2X4 I normally use.

 

[turbofish38]

How do you get the spring on the LCA perch, lined up properly, without using a compressor or unbolting the LCA from the frame? He-man strength or a large crow bar on the spring? No thanks.

Good luck with this technique with a real set of front springs.

Try it once instead of being the sceptic. Like I side the spring doesn't have much tension when the arm is all the way to the bottom of the arch. Just line the top up with the tangs on the frame and pull the spring into place in it's position. Even a 10 year old girl scout can do it. I'll post the pages out of the FSM and we'll compare technique.

It pays to hang out with entry level Street Stock racers. I've partaken in many a coil spring swap. With a well orchastrated crew it can be done in 10 minutes on each side.


REAL SET of springs? WTF does that mean? Moroso Drag Coils? Get real. The shorter the spring the easier it is doing it my way. Rate has nothing to do with it.

 

[turbofish38]

Let's see how this copy and paste works. This is out of the S-10 FSM that I copied from my work CD. Refer to the gif at the bottom where I've typed in what illustration. The S-10 and G-Body share the same front suspension.

Front Coil Springs Replacement
Tools Required
J 23028-A Coil Spring Remover and Installer

Removal Procedure

SEE ILLUSTRATION 1


Notice: Use care when handling the coil springs in order to avoid chipping or scratching the coating. Damage to the coating will result in premature failure of the coil springs.

Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement .
Remove the shock absorber. Refer to Shock Absorber Replacement .
Secure J 23028-A to the end of a suitable jack.
Cradle the lower control arm bushings using J 23028-A .
Raise the jack in order to relieve tension on the lower control arm pivot bolts.

SEE ILLUSTRATION 2

Turn the steering wheel to one side in order to allow the steering linkage to clear the lower control arm front pivot bolt.
Remove the lower control arm pivot bolts and nuts.
7.1. Remove the lower control arm rear pivot bolt.

7.2. Remove the lower control arm front pivot bolt.

Lower J 23028-A slowly to relieve the tension from the front coil spring.

SEE ILLUSTRATION 3

Remove the front coil spring and the insulators. While removing the front coil spring, do not apply force to the lower control arm and/or lower ball joint.
Installation Procedure

SEE ILLUSTRATION 4


Install the front coil spring and the insulators on the lower control arm.
Ensure that front coil spring covers all or part of one inspection drain hole. The other hole must be partly or completely uncovered. Rotate coil spring as necessary.


SEE ILLUSTRATION 1


Support the control arm using J 23028-A .
Position the coil spring and insulator in the upper spring seat on the frame.
Raise the lower control arm using J 23028-A .
Install the lower control arm to the frame.

SEE ILLUSTRATION 2

In order to maintain adequate steering linkage clearance, install the bolts in the direction shown.
Install the lower control arm front pivot bolt and the new nut.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the lower control arm rear pivot bolt and the new nut.
Tighten

Tighten the lower control arm pivot bolts nuts with the front suspension loaded.
Tighten the lower control arm front bolt to 115 N·m (85 lb ft).
Tighten the lower control arm rear bolt to 98 N·m (72 lb ft).
Remove the J 23028-A .


Okay no shock is used as a guide. If the arm is supported properly you dont need to use it. Trying to balance the arm and spring with a floor jack can be tough to do.

My technique is a short cut. If you have the time to experiment you could try it both ways. It can be intimidating to the newb especially with all of the horror stories out there.

 

[UNGN]

Okay no shock is used as a guide. If the arm is supported properly you dont need to use it. Trying to balance the arm and spring with a floor jack can be tough to do.

My technique is a short cut. If you have the time to experiment you could try it both ways. It can be intimidating to the newb especially with all of the horror stories out there.

You said you don't unbolt the LC arm from the frame.

The FSM says to unbolt the arm from the frame.

If you are swapping the springs, the shock is already in there. Removing it isn't a "short cut".

The shock is there to provide the newb with the knowledge that the spring can't kill him, even if it wouldn't, anyway.

Your way involves compressing one side of a unsupported, large spring 1-2 inches to get it up on the LCA perch. Any newb would try this once and say, "no thanks".

 

[cpac]

I Really Didnt Read Everything ...but If You Are Afraid Of The Coil Flying Out And You Have A Set Of Torches ....just Heat The Coil Spring On 1 Coil Red And It Will Loose All Tension

 

[JST A 6]

I Really Didnt Read Everything ...but If You Are Afraid Of The Coil Flying Out And You Have A Set Of Torches ....just Heat The Coil Spring On 1 Coil Red And It Will Loose All Tension

OK I guess for getting the old springs out if they're junk anyway, but what good would this do for putting the new springs in?

Great thread guys, lots of good info. I'm definitely subscribing to this one for when I go to change my springs & shocks.