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How hard to change springs?

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Great thread. I'll be changing mine out in the next week or so.
 
Insulator Questions?

Just changed my upper and lowers to G-body tubulars. I used a spring compressor to reinstall the springs because the engine is out and the front end did not have enough weight on it. The spring was not much problem to deal with if the compressor was on right.

My question is this, when removing stock pieces I did not notice insulators in the lower arms or in the upper mount. The vehicle had some work done previously. Could the other owner not replaced them? Should I be using the insulators with tubulars, and if so where would be a good place to find them? Thanks.
 
Definately needs insulators in the upper mount where the springs meet the frame. You dont put them on the bottom of the spring where the spring meets the lower control arm. You may actually have upper insulators, they may have just stayed up there when you remove the stock spring. They usually do.
 
Did the springs and shocks yesterday. (passed on boxing the control arms for now). It took me about 8 hours. Rears pretty smooth, unhooked the upper control arm on first side but didn't on the second side and didn't notice any difference. Fronts I did it like UNGN suggested. I had a little trouble getting the bolts on the lower control arms out. One came out easy and then that side dropped down and had trouble getting other side out. It's real important where you place the floor jack under the control arm. Second side went better, put jack under shock but a little more toward center of car. Then just jack it up enough until the bolts in control arms will move. Only other problem was getting the bottom of the springs centered as I started to compress them with the jack. Passenger side I put some compression on it and hit it toward the center of the car with a big hammer and piece of wood. Other side I had to put a strap on the lower part of spring and use a "come along" to pull it in. (is there a trick to this?)
If the top rubber cushion comes out (stayed up on one side), use some electricians tape to hold it in place. On one side I did put the shock on the inside of the control arm instead of the bottom, but since I lost one of the clips with the nut on it I had to put a bolt in it. So I was still able to drive it until I get it right.
One other big plus; I did not spill any blood. One bruised knuckle and a knot on my head from sliding into the floor jack.
P.S. If you read this and do your springs; add any bits of advice to help the next person. Thanks again for everyone's help.
 
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