How I tossed my vacuum block and cleaned up intake

[earlbrown]

i've always hated that vac block and how the solid lines snake and wrap around the engine.

While I had my 4.1 out and apart to install my forged pistons I did a vac brake swap (see my how-to a few posts down), steel braided lines, and new rotors and bearings (how-to coming soon).

While my intake was sitting on the coffee table I thought it would be fun to bust out the drill motor and make some shavings....

After a few minutes, i settled on this...

The large elbow on the left with the check valve is for my vacuum brake booster. Now that the engine is installed I'm going to swap it out for a standard straight barbed fitting. The hose will route nicer that way.

The one in the middle is for the small vac line that used to run the EGR and still runs the vac ball, charcoal can, basically the stuff on the drivers side engine compartment. The right one is for the MAP sensor and boost gauge. It will probably get swapped for a straight barb too.


Next I chose this spot for the fuel pressure regulator. This one was a little tricky because I needed to make sure the nipple (giggity) and the line would play nice with the trottle/cruise/TV cables.

Also, i think my throttle body is now officially out of the leak business. It seems like the factory hose were close enough I didn't even have to drill. All it took was pipe taps and sealing jizz.

I'll probably make a cosmetic plate just to pretty that up a little. That does go against my thing of adding weight with no performance gain though.

Installed and routed.

I ddin't think to weigh everything up and see if I actually lost any weight. Since I added a vacuum brake circuit it would most likely be an apples to giraffes comparison.

I do enjoy not rubbing by discontinued hood liner anymore. So that's something

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Cool stuff.


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[1984 t-type]

Do you mind sharing what size drill bits, taps, and fittings you used ? I want to do this also while my intake is off

 

[dank GN]

Do you mind sharing what size drill bits, taps, and fittings you used ? I want to do this also while my intake is off

 

[1984 t-type]

Thanks that helps. I know the Brakes and PCV are 3/8'' are the rest just 1/4'' ?

 

[INEEDAGN]

What are you doing for pcv?

 

[1984 t-type]

What are you doing for pcv?

Me or the OP ?

 

[earlbrown]

I stuck on on the side of the intake just below the plenum gasket for the PCV.

 

[earlbrown]

Thanks that helps. I know the Brakes and PCV are 3/8'' are the rest just 1/4'' ?

And 3/8 NPT" The small stuff just needs a signal, not actual flow.

Also, ignore the 90's on my first post and just go with straight barbed fittings. They're cheaper and work better. If I'd had a 2nd TR to look at, I would have been able to see that 90's aren't the better option.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Instead of drilling the manifold, you could drill the 1" plenum spacer FullThrottle sells. I've also seen people switch to push-fit vacuum lines which completely eliminates hoses blowing off under boost.

 

[Coach]

Instead of drilling the manifold, you could drill the 1" plenum spacer FullThrottle sells. I've also seen people switch to push-fit vacuum lines which completely eliminates hoses blowing off under boost.

As long as you replace the hose before it starts to get brittle. Then watch the fittings also. Push loc fittings and hose are not for heat. They will deteriorate pretty quick...and can cause serious issues.

 

[BobbyBuick]

running push loc on mine without issue so far but only race it

 

[1984 t-type]

Does the plenum rub on the hood pad with a 1'' spacer, and does the up pipe still fit good usually ?

 

[Coach]

running push loc on mine without issue so far but only race it

Just pinch the hose every now and then Bob. The heat cycles deteriorate it quickly.
I'm just passing some info. Not saying they don't work.
Thanks

 

[Turbo6inKY]

As long as you replace the hose before it starts to get brittle. Then watch the fittings also. Push loc fittings and hose are not for heat. They will deteriorate pretty quick...and can cause serious issues.

The silicone push-loc are less susceptible to the heat damage than the cheaper PVC stuff.
But you're right. I've gotten to the point on the car now where I have a list of stuff that gets inspected at regular intervals, and replaced after xx amount of time whether its broken or not.

 

[Coach]

The silicone push-loc are less susceptible to the heat damage than the cheaper PVC stuff.
But you're right. I've gotten to the point on the car now where I have a list of stuff that gets inspected at regular intervals, and replaced after xx amount of time whether its broken or not.

I have a checklist also...
It's just a good idea for any high performance car. My Pro Street car gets a check every 100 miles. It rattles everything loose.
Just grab the lines and give them a tug...that'll do it. We had them fail on one of our machines at the shop. They were installed over a heavy duty fluid pump that was closed off with a door. The rising heat just slowly cooked them over time. This closed off area is a close simulation of engine heat with the hood shut.

 

[ttypewhite]

Does the plenum rub on the hood pad with a 1'' spacer, and does the up pipe still fit good usually ?

Yes

 

[ttypewhite]

I have done the same to clean up under the hood of my car as well. My setup requires a 1" plenum spacer in order for me to run a 4" air intake pipe underneath my intercooler pipe. I drilled and taped my 1" spacer for my vacuum lines and made my own pcv out of a Racetronix check valve, teflon lines and fittings. I really don't like the push lock stuff as I have never had them work properly for me without leaks. Teflon lines and fittings are bulletproof with vacuum lines, oil etc.



My PCV setup

 

[1984 t-type]

Yes

Was that a yes to it rubs the hood liner or a yes to the up pipe still fits good ?

 

[achalmersman]

I have done the same to clean up under the hood of my car as well. My setup requires a 1" plenum spacer in order for me to run a 4" air intake pipe underneath my intercooler pipe. I drilled and taped my 1" spacer for my vacuum lines and made my own pcv out of a Racetronix check valve, teflon lines and fittings. I really don't like the push lock stuff as I have never had them work properly for me without leaks. Teflon lines and fittings are bulletproof with vacuum lines, oil etc.



My PCV setup

That is AWESOME. Care to share the part numbers / breakdown?

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