how long for first oil change new on new engine?

[liv4gnz]

well is it worth putting in 50 dollars of oil that will be dumped for break in?


this question depends on the next,

how long until you change the oil in a brand new first start engine.

after you start it like 500 miles? one thousand miles?

depending on that if its only gonna be like 500 miles can i use regular oil if its going to be dumped any way or should i use the syntehtic to just have it wasted away is it going to be worth it?

thanks

 

[JayC]

Id dump it at 500 and 1000 and just use a quality dino oil.

 

[liv4gnz]

i stock shell and exxon regular and what weight would you recomend

10/30?

 

[JayC]

i stock shell and exxon regular and what weight would you recomend

10/30?

10/30 would be okay.. Id probably go with the Shell.. We usually use Castrol for our dino oil.

 

[vacuum 6]

After initial start up change oil then again at 500 & 1000 miles. That's what I did, no issues. I use valvoline 10W-40.

 

[Just a Six??]

After 20 mins drain & cut open the filter to inspect. then about 250 miles & then I do every 1000-1500 miles with a good Dino Oil no Synthetics for my engines & I'm building #6 this year without any issues so far.

KNOCK ON WOOD!!

PS: How do you come up with $50???

 

[TURBO 6]

I start mine, let it run in for a few minutes then change the oil. Then I'll change again at 500 miles. After that I'll change it every 1500 miles. Probably overkill.

 

[JayC]

I start mine, let it run in for a few minutes then change the oil. Then I'll change again at 500 miles. After that I'll change it every 1500 miles. Probably overkill.

Depends... I probably should have elaborated a little. If youre running a flat tappet cam (People still run those?) then you need to do a break in and dump the oil and then dump it after about 500 or so.

We do a lot of engine jobs here but they all use rollers. Since there's no break in on a roller, we tell our customers to change them at 500 and then at 1000 we change the oil again and tune the car for max power.

 

[liv4gnz]

so 10 30 regular oil for 500 miles since its a roller cam, than change it than go one thousand miles, than change it again

after that its done right?

i can go back over to a good synthetic?

how do you seat the rings just give it a couple pounds of boost?

and when you start it for the first time do you have to hold the throttle at like 2K rpm for like 15 minutes?

all for a roller cam

thanks

 

[JayC]

The whole 2K RPM thing for 15 minutes is to break in flat tappet cams. The rings will seat themselves.. Id just be easy on the engine for the first 500-1000 miles.

Truth be told, high horsepower engines get broken it at the track and they dont have any ring seating issues. We broke in our alcohol engine on the dyno.

Its more of a common sense thing.

 

[liv4gnz]

so im going to throw my street chip in it and let it warm up idle drive it a little and just get on it but you know taking it easy on her

 

[Boost231]

I start mine, let it run in for a few minutes then change the oil. Then I'll change again at 500 miles. After that I'll change it every 1500 miles. Probably overkill.

i do the same. but i do run a flat tappet

 

[86 TR]

.

Truth be told, high horsepower engines get broken it at the track and they dont have any ring seating issues. We broke in our alcohol engine on the dyno.

I run a roller cam in my engine. When I first got it fired up I ran it for about 15 minutes to check everything over. Made sure there were no leaks and so forth. I took the car out to the street and gave it a 17psi boost hit right away. Changed oil about 200 miles later and everything was good. No blowby or leaks.

I used 10w-30 castrol for the first couple of thousand miles then switched to a synthetic.

 

[Powder]

I recently built a 4.1 from the block up, bored, forged pistons, roller cam, etc. When I fired it for the first time I ran it for 10-12 minutes at fast idle(2Kish rpm) and then shut it off, let it cool, and checked for leaks, etc. All systems looked great until I drained the oil and found it contaminated with water. Think of the damage I could have done if I had just taken it for a break-in drive without changing the oil first just because I now have a roller cam.
Common sense tells me there is a lot of foreign stuff (moly lube, dust, hair, lint) in an engine after it has been assembled no matter how clean your assembly area is and flushing that stuff out after a brief run-in is important.
Also, do a search for break-in procedures. There has been some recent information posted regarding the importance of moderate boost very early in the break-in stage to seat the rings quickly. HTH
MLH

 

[vacuum 6]

I run a roller cam in my engine. When I first got it fired up I ran it for about 15 minutes to check everything over. Made sure there were no leaks and so forth. I took the car out to the street and gave it a 17psi boost hit right away. Changed oil about 200 miles later and everything was good. No blowby or leaks.

I used 10w-30 castrol for the first couple of thousand miles then switched to a synthetic.

I agree with the break-in. I did not do mine the same way but no issues.

 

[pacecarta]

someone poste this link a few weeks ago and i have to agree

fire it up wait for the normal smoke of a fresh painted oiled engine to clear , make sure the basics are in spec and no leaks no strong smell of fuel from tailpipes , tps, iac in spec , no misfires , clt temp ok and all the others things on sm working fine , fan run as they should thermostat opens and temps are stable (top off the fluids ) then take it down the road for a little ride and then get on it

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

 

[vacuum 6]

...fan run as they should thermostat opens and temps are stable (top off the fluids )...

That's one thing I forgot...hook up the three wires to the starter...fan failed to turn on. VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!