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How much to build a 7 or 8 second TR?

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The bottom line is running 8's and 7's with any car (not just a Stage II TR) is VERY expensive and if you want to run that fast you are much better off buying a car that is already built.... This Duttweiler built turbo mustang I found is a prime example>>>
http://24.214.230.30/mustang.html

The guy has $120K in receipts and is selling this car for $50K (that is less than half of the money he has into it) and if you want buy his 2001 28ft. Pace enclosed trailer for another $8K and for $58K you can have yourself a 7 second 10.5" tire turbo mustang and go racing with Dan Millen!!!!! The car needs nothing and only has 10 passes on it..... Hey Winsett were you the one looking to buy an SSO or Pro 5.0 mustang?;) :D
 
I agree and reccomend it too, but some people don't have the cash to drop all at once and need to do it over time, and some people want to build it themselves so it feels more like their car. I think I'm actually gonna like the building more than the driving (still have no clue how i'm gonna like low 9's or high 8's). I have to be at or above the $50k mark and I still have no money to put even an ok paint job on it.
 
Originally posted by GNSCOTT
Take Billy Anderson's car. I would call that a $100k car easy. It IS a race car in every sense of the word. Extremely well done, and no expense spared.

I dont even know if I should respond to this for fear of making myself ill!!!!!
I will sum it up by saying "If you only knew......" And I did EVERY bit of the work(while I should have been making money on paying jobs!) at the shop including paint and bodywork with the exception of the chassis,Lexan and tin work. I am sure we will be satisfied with the end result once it is sorted out. I am not going to quote prices but I will give you an idea of my recipe for success(hopefully I'm right!)

25.1D full chromoly chassis
Strange struts and brakes
Rack and pinion
aircraft steering knuckles
M.Williams steering wheel and SFI hub <-sounds minute...price it!
Full blown 9" Ford with all the good stuff
Hal coilovers
Custom Alum 4" shaft
New Prostock Liberty trans
New Lakewood can
New adjustable Mcleod clutch/alum flywheel
Weld 15x15 alumastars and 15x4 alumastars
16.5x33 slicks M/T front runners
MSD ign, Speed Pro comp, Racepak and Speed Pro data loggers
Stage 2 on center no need to elaborate
New Moroso 4 stage dry sump, all new hoses and fittings(ouch)
Stefs oil tank, Moroso Pan
Custom Stainless headers
PTE 98
Liquid intercooler and pump (all steel braided)
Twin SX fuel system,instrumentation,digital boost controller, intake,custom aluminum wing,chute,wheelie bars,Halon system, dash, fiberglass,etc etc
You get the picture, I could go on for hours. I am sure you can build something similar for ALOT less. I wanted all new parts and my car is basically a 2003 Prostock race car with and 86 body and Turbo V6. We have a long way to go to sort out the bugs, we are going to try hard to run a number real soon.
Bill
 
Initial investment: $10k
Bought a convertor: $650.00

low 10 second car: $10,650.00
Car consisted of a girdled stock block, weldon pump, FAST, PT-76, HKS gate, ATR headers, and DP, PTE front mount, TH-400, ladder bar 9" Ford rear end.

Updates to car:

Tore out half a$$ roll cage and mini-tubbed, NEW NHRA certified MOLY 8pt full cage: $4400.00

New paint, fiberglass hood, decklid, bumpers: $6500.00

Stage II powerplant, untilizing 95lb injectors and PTE front-mount: $14000.00

Total investment: $35,550.00 Approx.

This combo is simular to Cals setup, but I don't intend on pushing the 8 second envolope with the PT-76 Q trim.

Best advise to anybody is to buy a car with GOOD quality parts on it at the get go. I know there is talk about it not being your car, but way I see it is I have done a complete makeover and made this car a nice show/race car that I consider to be all mine at this point.
 
Low 11s sounds really good to me!!!

Car = $14,200
Parts = $10,000
F-150 = $30,000
Featherlite = $5,000

My parts figure is probably a little on the high side. On the other hand, I never claimed to be able to run 11.2 for "a few hundred bucks", like some brain surgeons insist they do.

That's enough to spend on a few passes a year!!!

:D
 
Thanks for the replies! It seems like for going 12s, the Buick is tough bargain to beat, but once you get into serious race car land, the money just starts to get crazy.

At that level, it seems like the Buicks are not at all cheap to build. Buying one that is already done seems to be the way to go if money was an issue. :)
 
Originally posted by EightSecV6
Full blown 9" Ford with all the good stuff

Bill

Bill, I'm no pro here, but think that 9" wont last long behind 1300ish HP. Pete Bernard was running a "built 9"" and went to a MW unit because he bent the crap out his 9". If I remember right, he said the tubes bent and the car woul teeter, kinda like a table with one short leg. Said since he swapped rears, the car drives like its on a string....

Just what I've gathered talking to Petey...

BTW, for me, and my car might....MIGHT be able to touch a 10, but I think not counting my tunes, I'll have ~25-30K into my car when ready. I think I'm up to 7500 in just my long block by now, and its still a 109 block.
 
Originally posted by metal-box
Thanks for the replies! It seems like for going 12s, the Buick is tough bargain to beat, but once you get into serious race car land, the money just starts to get crazy.

At that level, it seems like the Buicks are not at all cheap to build. Buying one that is already done seems to be the way to go if money was an issue. :)

Did you read my last post at all? There was that guy with a $120K in receipts for his 7 second turbo mustang!!! As I said before running that fast (8's and 7's in the 1/4) is NOT cheap no matter what car you build (TR, F-body, Mustang, etc.) and I'd have to say that for going 11s these Buicks are a tough bargain to beat because there are plenty of guys on this board running mid to high 11's with bolt-ons (stock longblock) for about $3K total spent and once you get past the 11's with most any car (again NOT just a TR) it gets expensive.... A good example of this is my friend who spent about $15K total to run mid 10's with his '99 A4 LS1 WS6 T/A (that is NOT exactly what I call cheap, but that is what he had to spend to get there)! Also, keep in mind that some guys can go faster for less because they are better tuners and are really good at getting the most out of a combo.... The one car that seems to be fairly cheap to get in the 11's and 10's as of now is the '03 Cobra, but then again it does cost about $35K-$40K new and most including myself can't afford that price so if we'd want one it would have to be used a couple years from now and nobody really knows at this point how well they'll hold up after some years go by..... Drag racing costs money and the more money you have to spend the faster you can go!
 
Jim,
I have run this rear for about 7 years ( total of 5 seasons as it has been apart for a while).I put it together and the following year the "High Rent" housings came out. We just checked it with a laser alignment tool over the winter and it was out .006 from one tube end to the other.It is braced from all angles, if you actually look at it you could see why it has not bent!!! The car has dropped 800# since it was last run so it should even be easier on it now.
I remember Pete's problem....ouch
 
Originally posted by 86brick
Did you read my last post at all? There was that guy with a $120K in receipts for his 7 second turbo mustang!!! As I said before running that fast (8's and 7's in the 1/4) is NOT cheap no matter what car you build (TR, F-body, Mustang, etc.) and I'd have to say that for going 11s these Buicks are a tough bargain to beat because there are plenty of guys on this board running mid to high 11's with bolt-ons (stock longblock) for about $3K total spent and once you get past the 11's with most any car (again NOT just a TR) it gets expensive.... A good example of this is my friend who spent about $15K total to run mid 10's with his '99 A4 LS1 WS6 T/A (that is NOT exactly what I call cheap, but that is what he had to spend to get there)! Also, keep in mind that some guys can go faster for less because they are better tuners and are really good at getting the most out of a combo.... The one car that seems to be fairly cheap to get in the 11's and 10's as of now is the '03 Cobra, but then again it does cost about $35K-$40K new and most including myself can't afford that price so if we'd want one it would have to be used a couple years from now and nobody really knows at this point how well they'll hold up after some years go by..... Drag racing costs money and the more money you have to spend the faster you can go!

I totally agree with what your saying. My point was that once you get into a 7 or 8 second zone, it doesn't matter what kind of car it is, it is going to cost royally.:)
 
Originally posted by strikeeagle
Low 11s sounds really good to me!!!

Car = $14,200
Parts = $10,000
F-150 = $30,000
Featherlite = $5,000

My parts figure is probably a little on the high side. On the other hand, I never claimed to be able to run 11.2 for "a few hundred bucks", like some brain surgeons insist they do.

That's enough to spend on a few passes a year!!!

:D


It is pretty cheap when you still have the factory motor. My car went 11.20s for like 2500-3000. Now that I have gone through the motor I am well into the ranges your talking about. 7K into the longblock... FAST, Turbo, IC, Injectors = 6K Tranny, Convertor, Rearend, cage... I think I wanna throw up. All for another 3/4 of a second. Blah :p
 
Originally posted by TTA89
It is pretty cheap when you still have the factory motor. My car went 11.20s for like 2500-3000. Now that I have gone through the motor I am well into the ranges your talking about. 7K into the longblock... FAST, Turbo, IC, Injectors = 6K Tranny, Convertor, Rearend, cage... I think I wanna throw up. All for another 3/4 of a second. Blah :p

Yeah, but you now have a bulletproof combo with plenty of potential for more! :)
 
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