just wondering what i should do to better my 60 foots. im right at 1.60 on the foot brake and MT ET Street Radials (275/60R15's). I have boxed upper and lower control arms and thats it. Stock Bushings and really old checker special shocks. Last year all i was able to get out of it was 1.68 60's. only thing i changed was boxing the arms and going from old MT ET Streets To New MT ET Street Radials. Last year i was lauching of the E_brake and this year just the foot brake. I was thinking better shocks and a T-Brake should get me in the mid 1.5's
How To Better My 60 Foot
- Thread starter Boost231
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Do the tires spin?
What converter? What stall?
I know you had a new best last weekend. What was your MPH in the 1/4?
Lots of stuff to try/do.... remove front swaybar.. try some skinnies up front... verify pinion angle isn't crazy... different shocks...
What converter? What stall?
I know you had a new best last weekend. What was your MPH in the 1/4?
Lots of stuff to try/do.... remove front swaybar.. try some skinnies up front... verify pinion angle isn't crazy... different shocks...
Underboost
Mr. Dull
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2005
- Messages
- 4,277
HR, or Wolfcraft rear bar, New stock replacement springs "not" variable rate. Just to add a few.
HR, or Wolfcraft rear bar, New stock replacement springs "not" variable rate. Just to add a few.
Check Art Morison's web site. They make a bracket that relocates the upper control arm. Actually this gives you several positions for the upper control arm. This is what I have been using along with stock springs, stock original shocks, HR Parts sway bar, Hr Parts lower control arms (1/4" longer),11" brakes and air bags set to about 12lbs.
Jeff
I agree with Jeff. Relocating that upper arm attachment point is a winner. Moser's 12 bolt housing is cast with the upper attachment point 1" higher than stock. Must be pretty important for them to change it at the casting level. The rest of my rear suspension setup is pretty boring. Latest best 60 foot, 1.30 with a relatively conservative launch.
Transbrake is a must. I think the way the release can shock load certain suspension configurations helps them work better.
If you start using a transbrake, the first upgrade should be a driveshaft.
Transbrake is a must. I think the way the release can shock load certain suspension configurations helps them work better.
If you start using a transbrake, the first upgrade should be a driveshaft.
thanks for the input guys. Not sure of the tires spin i didnt get any good side videos of the car this year so i cant tell but if they are i dont think its much. right now im running a PTS Billet 9X11 3000 flash so it will stall and lauch and whatever i want it to. i can lauch 20psi on the foot brake. my 1/4 trap speed was right at 112-113
Are they similar to this?
Lakewood No-Hop Traction Bars: LAK-21610 - summitracing.com
I've heard that some people have had problems with the bars breaking the axle housing on hi HP cars. Don't know if thats true or rumor????
Boost231-
The reason I asked about MPH is because you need the HP to 60ft. On my old car I needed about 118-121 MPH before I could run consistent mid to low 1.5's. With your MPH I'd say your doing damn good at 1.60! I am ASSuming that your car is tuned in for max power?
Are they similar to this?
Lakewood No-Hop Traction Bars: LAK-21610 - summitracing.com
I've heard that some people have had problems with the bars breaking the axle housing on hi HP cars. Don't know if thats true or rumor????
Boost231-
The reason I asked about MPH is because you need the HP to 60ft. On my old car I needed about 118-121 MPH before I could run consistent mid to low 1.5's. With your MPH I'd say your doing damn good at 1.60! I am ASSuming that your car is tuned in for max power?
Yes those Summit bars are similar but they only have a single upper control arm mounting point however they should work.
my brother can also hold 20 psi on the foot brake.
Are they similar to this?
Lakewood No-Hop Traction Bars: LAK-21610 - summitracing.com
I've heard that some people have had problems with the bars breaking the axle housing on hi HP cars. Don't know if thats true or rumor????
i have those type of bars on my skylark and i just broke the bolt that goes through the webbing on the rear (where you have to drill in the rear). im not sure if it screwed up my control arms, but the rear seems to be shifted towards the passenger side now and the car had a slight cat-track to it the rest of the way home.
buickbert
Thats exactly where I've heard of them breaking 
Maybe the Art Morison bars are a better design?
cdsttype might be right about the converter being to loose. 20PSI on the footbrake is alot!
I've been running a 6k stall art carr up til the WCN. The car would spool quick and launch at whatever boost I wanted. But it was violent and diffacult to control when I launched. It was hard to catch a good light, anticapating the "gunshot" when I let off the brake. My best 60ft was 1.42.
I tried a prototype ArizonaGN converter at the WCN. The stall is probably 4k? The spool is slightly slower, but without all the drama and violence on launch. I was able to get all of my reactions under .07 with a best of .002. My best 60ft from the weekend was 1.35.
Maybe the Art Morison bars are a better design?
cdsttype might be right about the converter being to loose. 20PSI on the footbrake is alot!
I've been running a 6k stall art carr up til the WCN. The car would spool quick and launch at whatever boost I wanted. But it was violent and diffacult to control when I launched. It was hard to catch a good light, anticapating the "gunshot" when I let off the brake. My best 60ft was 1.42.
I tried a prototype ArizonaGN converter at the WCN. The stall is probably 4k? The spool is slightly slower, but without all the drama and violence on launch. I was able to get all of my reactions under .07 with a best of .002. My best 60ft from the weekend was 1.35.
Thats exactly where I've heard of them breaking
Maybe the Art Morison bars are a better design?
cdsttype might be right about the converter being to loose. 20PSI on the footbrake is alot!
I've been running a 6k stall art carr up til the WCN. The car would spool quick and launch at whatever boost I wanted. But it was violent and diffacult to control when I launched. It was hard to catch a good light, anticapating the "gunshot" when I let off the brake. My best 60ft was 1.42.
I tried a prototype ArizonaGN converter at the WCN. The stall is probably 4k? The spool is slightly slower, but without all the drama and violence on launch. I was able to get all of my reactions under .07 with a best of .002. My best 60ft from the weekend was 1.35.
Nice!
Thats exactly where I've heard of them breaking
Maybe the Art Morison bars are a better design?
in all fairness, they have been on the car for over five years and it was a little dinky bolt that goes through the webbing that broke. maybe i can get some higher strenght hardware for them. and the 462 does put out some torque!:biggrin:
buickbert
