How to fix loose steering column?

[GNRick]

I removed the steering wheel, pried off the plastic cover, and used the special tool to compress the lock plate. However, I can't see the retaining ring that holds the lock plate. There is a small metal piece that looks like a thimble, at the base of the threaded shaft. Is the ring under this piece? Or is it something huge, staring me in the face? Also, when I find it (with your help) how does it come off? With a pointy nose pliers? A picture would be great. Thanks!

 

[BlackBandit]

When you compress the lock plate you should see a wire ring around the shaft. That is what has to come off. I usually use a set of needle nose pliers and a couple of small flat head screwdrivers to get it out of it's groove and slide it up the shaft. If you can't see it you may need to compress the plate more. HTH. james

 

[GNRick]

I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks a lot!:smile:

 

[GNRick]

I went out and looked at it again. I pulled out, with a pointy nose pliers, a thin strip of wire on the right hand side. It was held in under a couple metal tabs. I don't think it did anything. I can also see, barely, a coiled piece of wire on the left hand side. I don't think I can reach in to grab it. Am I on the right track? What else needs to be done, and will the locking plate then have to be pried off? I usuall break things when I pry them. Thanks.

 

[Brent]

sounds to me like you dont have a lock plate remover. it is a u-shaped piece of meatal and a nut on a tapered stud that screws on the shaft. pressing the lock plate down so you can acsess the little round clip. if you pry you will break the column. the plastic thing you tore off already should still be on there. and it sounds like you ripped out the key chime contacts. the bolts your looking for are about 8"deeper than you are right now.

 

[GNRick]

sounds to me like you dont have a lock plate remover. it is a u-shaped piece of meatal and a nut on a tapered stud that screws on the shaft. pressing the lock plate down so you can acsess the little round clip. if you pry you will break the column. the plastic thing you tore off already should still be on there. and it sounds like you ripped out the key chime contacts. the bolts your looking for are about 8"deeper than you are right now.

I do have the lock plate remover. I just don't know what to remove after depressing the lock plate. The plastic piece that I removed covered the lock plate. I pried it off per instructions on gnttype.org. I didn't break anything (yet).

 

[Brent]

right were tou depressed it there is a wire ring going around the shakt kinda like a C-clip only external. once you slide the ring up out of its groove and release the lock plate pressure the spring behind it will push it up.
the ring is at the base of the shaft in a groove. stopping that spring from pushing the lock plate off.:smile:

 

[GNRick]

right were tou depressed it there is a wire ring going around the shakt kinda like a C-clip only external. once you slide the ring up out of its groove and release the lock plate pressure the spring behind it will push it up.
the ring is at the base of the shaft in a groove. stopping that spring from pushing the lock plate off.:smile:

Hi Brent,

Well, I might have pulled that wire out, I'm just not sure if it was the right wire or not. The lock plate did not fall out in my hands so I am thinking I pulled the wrong wire. Or maybe there is another wire. This is one of those jobs that is easy if you see it done. The wire was on the right hand side of the steering column. How many wires are in there? Maybe I'll just take the wire to my mechanic and see if I pulled out the right one. He fixed the loose column last time. Maybe he didn't use thread locker on the screws.

 

[chopped39]

If you have never pulled one of these columns apart I would bring it back to guy that fixed it before. The lockplate is the least of your worries.You have to make sure you take it apart carefully and make sure all parts go back the same way the came out. If you use thread locker the bolts should almost never come out. Are you sure its the bolts that are loose? I have seen housings wear out where the pivot pins press in. did alot of columns when i use to repo cars. The first one i did was a mess I had parts everywhere. I worked on it for three hours . I think the wire you pulled out is for the horn.That is the only wire this side of the lockplate.If you ripped it out you must have broke the turn signal cam. No biggie you can get them at zone for 10 dollars. Save yourself the headaches and have the guy that did it befor do it again. Make sure he tightens all four bolts and not just the lowers.And use red thread locker. good luck

 

[gpadilla1071]

Need help adjusting the column shifter...

since we are talking about the steering column, my shifter has some play to it. How can I get that adjusted to be a little tighter? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[notacarlo]

Start a new thread on the shifter please. We haven't fixed the steering column issue yet.

When you say "wire", do you mean the c-clip that is about the diameter of a dime? It is difficult to remove, and it may require that you push the plate down even further than you have it.

can you post a picture of what you have removed and of the steering shaft at the plate?

 

[GNRick]

If you have never pulled one of these columns apart I would bring it back to guy that fixed it before. The lockplate is the least of your worries.You have to make sure you take it apart carefully and make sure all parts go back the same way the came out. If you use thread locker the bolts should almost never come out. Are you sure its the bolts that are loose? I have seen housings wear out where the pivot pins press in. did alot of columns when i use to repo cars. The first one i did was a mess I had parts everywhere. I worked on it for three hours . I think the wire you pulled out is for the horn.That is the only wire this side of the lockplate.If you ripped it out you must have broke the turn signal cam. No biggie you can get them at zone for 10 dollars. Save yourself the headaches and have the guy that did it befor do it again. Make sure he tightens all four bolts and not just the lowers.And use red thread locker. good luck

I carefully pulled it out with a pliers. I didn't break anything. The shop owner said to leave the pivot pins alone and just tighten the torx bolts. But it has been a while since he did one. It was his employee who worked on my car last time.

Start a new thread on the shifter please. We haven't fixed the steering column issue yet.

Thanks.

When you say "wire", do you mean the c-clip that is about the diameter of a dime? It is difficult to remove, and it may require that you push the plate down even further than you have it.

I can't push the plate down any further.

can you post a picture of what you have removed and of the steering shaft at the plate?

I'll try to post a pic unless I decide to bring it to my mechanic. I really don't want to break anything, especially for a job that the mechanic would only charge 30-45 minutes for. The shop owner said it takes 30 minutes.

 

[notacarlo]

The mechanic is right about the torx bolts, but they are very difficult to get to with the pivot pins in place. The pivot pins can be massaged out with a long thin flat screwdriver. i bought the pivot pin tool from snap-on and it broke immediately. had to think fast. The longest part of the whole process for me was the c-clip and locking plate reinstallation.

 

[GNRick]

A friend came over and removed the C clip for me:smile: . Not an easy task. He knew what to look for. That little clip really knew how to hide! I guess I removed the horn cam wire. Another mechanic told me today to try to tighten 3 out of the 4 screws and call it a day. I'll tackle it again tonight and see what happens. I hope I don't have to mess with the pivot pins. Thanks for everybody's help so far.

 

[notacarlo]

Once you get that plate off the pins are tit. Glad you got assistance on that. Saves a couple o' duckets.

 

[GNRick]

Once you get that plate off the pins are tit. Glad you got assistance on that. Saves a couple o' duckets.

 

[notacarlo]

meaning, i'm glad you had someone to help with the clip and locking plate. Now it should be easy. If you should have to remove the pins, they come out pretty easy. You will find that once you re done with this, you can do it pretty quick next time.

 

[GNRick]

If you have never pulled one of these columns apart I would bring it back to guy that fixed it before. The lockplate is the least of your worries.You have to make sure you take it apart carefully and make sure all parts go back the same way the came out. If you use thread locker the bolts should almost never come out. Are you sure its the bolts that are loose? I have seen housings wear out where the pivot pins press in. did alot of columns when i use to repo cars. The first one i did was a mess I had parts everywhere. I worked on it for three hours . I think the wire you pulled out is for the horn.That is the only wire this side of the lockplate.If you ripped it out you must have broke the turn signal cam. No biggie you can get them at zone for 10 dollars. Save yourself the headaches and have the guy that did it befor do it again. Make sure he tightens all four bolts and not just the lowers.And use red thread locker. good luck

Well, I took Chopped39's advice and gave up. I removed the three torx screws, hoping the housing around the ignition key and turn signal lever would come off, exposing the bolts that I wanted to tighten. It didn't come off. I looked at the directions again from gntype.org and thought I best put it back together and take it to my mechanic. All I did was put the steering wheel back on with the nut. I left off the locking plate and related parts, to make it easier for my mechanic. I hope its safe to drive this way for about 8 miles. I ordered some 4 gauge wire from parts express which should be here tomorrow, so hopefully I can ground my amps and at least claim one victory.