How to remove broken downpipe/turbo bolts?

[Renthorin]

So like a dumb a$$ I didn't wait long enough for the penetrating oil to soak in. Started turning them and long story short, the top two turbo to DP bolts are snapped off. There is zero thread showing from the exhaust housing to grab with vice grips.

Hoped the pipe would seal up well enough with the gasket having only the two bottom bolts in place but alas no, it is pfffttt ing from the top of the joint.

What is the easiest way to get the two broken ones out of the exhaust housing? I can easily get at them with the DP lowered.

Thanks,

Will

 

[sand1]

easy out or drill and re thread

 

[bison]

Bring the ex housing to a competent machinist. Don't try and drill them! The drill will walk and drilling straight is not guaranteed. It's best to use a milling machine and an end mill to start. I can remove them for $30 if you want to send me the housing. In the future use a large brass punch and a heavy hammer to shock the bolts before attempting removal.

 

[charlief1]

If you were closer I'd say bring them to me but bison has the right idea here. Take it to a competent machinest and he should be able to get it out without damage.

 

[Renthorin]

I was going to remove the turbo and take it somewhere but I'm having a heck of a time with the 3 bolts that hold it to the header pipe. The top one is off but I just can't get an angle on the lower ones. I think they are 11/16 but don't have a socket that can get in there.

 

[NorEaster]

If you can weld, weld a nut onto the broken stud and back it off. I had to do that on my turbo.

 

[Renthorin]

No welding here. I've had the turbo off before when I was going to upgrade so I know I can do it...just not sure how I got it off at the time. Maybe I took the IC out to get more room? I have an 11/16th wrench but it's a 12 point and I want a 6 point so I don't round things off.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Bring the ex housing to a competent machinist. Don't try and drill them! The drill will walk and drilling straight is not guaranteed. It's best to use a milling machine and an end mill to start. I can remove them for $30 if you want to send me the housing. In the future use a large brass punch and a heavy hammer to shock the bolts before attempting removal.

that is one of my favorites when removing old bolts
and one of my bad habits is using anti-seize like its free and some one else paid for it.
on the turbo to header -- in order to avoid dealing with rusty studs i stacked nuts the length of the stud with plenty of anti-seize, yeaup a little extra work and mess but never a problem pulling the turbo.

 

[turbofrank]

hope you are using 3/8 rachet with shallow socket,wear gloves and use spray on bolts .

 

[Renthorin]

3/8 on the DP bolts? I don't remember what I used but that sounds right. The ones keeping me from removing the whole turbo are the 3 connecting it to the exhaust manifold. Those seem to be 11/16

 

[turbofrank]

try 16 or 17 mm 3/8

 

[Renthorin]

I thought it might be 16. My 17 goes on there but of course out of 2 different socket sets neither had a 16mm... Off to Sears I go

 

[turboc87gn]

I used a map gas torch to heat the housing near the bolts and didnt break any off, replaced them with stainless....

 

[Renthorin]

I definitely plan to replace the two surviving bolts and get two new ones. I'll see if they have stainless.

 

[lolo86GN]

I had the same thing happen to me when upgrading my turbo. Went on the internet looking for ways to get rusty bolts out before I broke any more and found that if you heat the bolt you're trying to remove with a torch then get some wax and let it melt onto the thread, the wax gets competely sucked into the thread. The trick is to only heat one side of the bolt as the difference in temperature from one side to the other causes the wax to be sucked in. Worked great for me when I removed the three bolts that hold the turbo to the passenger header. I also only used a small map gas torch to heat the bolts. Check ou the link

 

[Renthorin]

Oddly I don't have bolts holding the turbo to the header. I have three nuts on posts. The nuts don't seem to be a problem, other than I can't get to two of them easily.

 

[TType85]

Oddly I don't have bolts holding the turbo to the header. I have three nuts on posts. The nuts don't seem to be a problem, other than I can't get to two of them easily.

Remove the IC, it will make it a ton easier. I've had turbos on and off this car so often I can do it in 15 min (I have a FM so no ic in the way)

 

[usetaboost]

If you can weld, weld a nut onto the broken stud and back it off. I had to do that on my turbo.

This is how my buddy got mine out. The heat probably helps too. WOrked well and no damaged threads. THis would be the way to do it

 

[haywire4130]

I had the same thing happen to me when upgrading my turbo. Went on the internet looking for ways to get rusty bolts out before I broke any more and found that if you heat the bolt you're trying to remove with a torch then get some wax and let it melt onto the thread, the wax gets competely sucked into the thread. The trick is to only heat one side of the bolt as the difference in temperature from one side to the other causes the wax to be sucked in. Worked great for me when I removed the three bolts that hold the turbo to the passenger header. I also only used a small map gas torch to heat the bolts. Check ou the link

wow, i thought i was the only one who knew this one! a crayon also works, u add it just like soldering a pipe, add it opposite the heat, saved my arse a ton of times! striking any bolt first like bison said is the best way to prevent it from breaking in the first place though...