How to remove Master cylinder
- Thread starter 87gninpa
- Start date
Red Regal T
Senior Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
Take off the lines and remove the two 15mm nuts.........one on each side of MC.
Take the two steel lines off first...
Use a line wrench if one is available. Then there is a stud sticking out on each side of the master, coming out of the booster. One may have two nuts and a bracket attached to it. Remove the nuts, (and the bracket if necessary, you may need to gently bend the bracket and lines out and away enough to pull the master forward off the studs. Follow the bench bleeding instructions that come with the new master. Install the same way. Be very careful to start the line nuts into the master and turn them by hand at least a full turn before putting the wrench on them. If you don't have a bunch of tubing tools and somebody experienced handy, rushing this step will make this a long, rough day. Take your time and be SURE the nuts are threaded correctly before wrenching them tight. You can usually bleed the system by: cracking each line nut open and having an assistant push the pedal, close the nut, let off the pedal, crack the nut, push the pedal. After a couple of pumps, then push the pedal first, and then crack the nuts loose, this will let any air bubbles down stream come back up and escape through the cracked nut. Be patient, rushing this step will only make it take longer. Resist the urge to "pump it up", usually all you succed in doing is aeriating the fluid and making the job take even longerDO NOT GET ANY BRAKE FLUID ON THE PAINT, IT WILL BUBBLE IT UP AND PEEL IT OFF
Use a line wrench if one is available. Then there is a stud sticking out on each side of the master, coming out of the booster. One may have two nuts and a bracket attached to it. Remove the nuts, (and the bracket if necessary, you may need to gently bend the bracket and lines out and away enough to pull the master forward off the studs. Follow the bench bleeding instructions that come with the new master. Install the same way. Be very careful to start the line nuts into the master and turn them by hand at least a full turn before putting the wrench on them. If you don't have a bunch of tubing tools and somebody experienced handy, rushing this step will make this a long, rough day. Take your time and be SURE the nuts are threaded correctly before wrenching them tight. You can usually bleed the system by: cracking each line nut open and having an assistant push the pedal, close the nut, let off the pedal, crack the nut, push the pedal. After a couple of pumps, then push the pedal first, and then crack the nuts loose, this will let any air bubbles down stream come back up and escape through the cracked nut. Be patient, rushing this step will only make it take longer. Resist the urge to "pump it up", usually all you succed in doing is aeriating the fluid and making the job take even longerDO NOT GET ANY BRAKE FLUID ON THE PAINT, IT WILL BUBBLE IT UP AND PEEL IT OFF
