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How to seal Cometics

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Use All 6

Use all six this time, 2 per gallon. I bet it seals right up.:) It's only $3.00 and easy...effort to yield ratio.

NAPAONLINE®
 
These gaskets don't require 85-90 ft. 70ft is all it takes. I have tried the 80 to 90ft thing and all I had was issues. I hate that copper spray stuff too. That stuff never dries, its like pond scum. I had a local engine builder apply that stuff on my headgasket..........needless to say, the head had to come off so I could play it again. the way I do it is clean all surfaces properly. I use, "The Right Stuff" silicone first on all my head studs (of course without coolant in the block). i use a very very light bit of "The Right Stuff" on the block surface just around any coolant passage, I also do the same to the head surface aswell. Then I torque down the heads to 50 then 60 then 70ft. I leave it for a day and come the following day and check it again. Never had a issue when I have done them this way, and I have pushed 30+psi through the motor without lifting the head or anything else along those lines.
 
I used ARP moly lube on the threads and Loctite teflon sealant on the threads in the block hand tight. I thought 70 was low also but who am I to argue with Dan??? ;)
 
I used ARP moly lube on the threads and Loctite teflon sealant on the threads in the block hand tight. I thought 70 was low also but who am I to argue with Dan??? ;)

Dan who? Dan told me to torque them down to 70, 75 max. But I think we're talking about a different Dan? Sounded low to me, too, but Dan knows his shiznit.

I'm not taking this freakin' engine out again. I'll retorque the heads but then I'm done. If it leaks, it leaks. The coolant never touches the ground (it burns off the header) so it's not a safety issue. I'm tired of looking at the car sitting up on the lift. I want to drive it for gawd's sake. And drive it like I stole it.

Jim
 
Jimmy, ask Dan what type of machine he used to deck the block and mill the heads? I hope he didn't use a broach. A broach leaves grooves on the surfaces.

All the above posts, guys with no leaks used some type of sealant; spray copper, silicone

The viton on the gaskets is so thin, it makes one think how they seal. There is a .001" layer of viton on the gasket. Go grab a venier caliper, and slide it to the first line, that's your .001. Too thin in my book. You have anything on the surface, it will be held up and not lay flat.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/226350-cometic-head-gasket-preperation.html

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Jimmy, ask Dan what type of machine he used to deck the block and mill the heads? I hope he didn't use a broach. A broach leaves grooves on the surfaces.

All the above posts, guys with no leaks used some type of sealant; spray copper, silicone

The viton on the gaskets is so thin, it makes one think how they seal. There is a .001" layer of viton on the gasket. Go grab a venier caliper, and slide it to the first line, that's your .001. Too thin in my book. You have anything on the surface, it will be held up and not lay flat.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/226350-cometic-head-gasket-preperation.html

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Thanks Billy.

Next time I talk to him I'll ask him. It's kind of moot now anyway. If they don't seal then I'll either live with it or take it apart and put sealant on the gaskets. I'm not going to have the block and heads machined again, at least until the next time I break it.

They were really expensive, too, because of the .040 overbore. I think they were over $200 for the pair. I'd hate to toss them out and go with Felpros.

Jim
 
I finally pulled the valve cover and took the header off the driver's side. The gasket isn't leaking much, but enough that I can see the gasket is wet with coolant. It's not dripping, just wet. The passenger side remains sealed.

I set the torque wrench at 65 and only one bolt moved a little. I took it up to 70, same deal. I'm reluctant to turn it up any more.

I think at this point I'm going to put it back together and add 2 or 3 more sealant tabs. It's very close to being sealed.

Jim
 
Update

Not able to leave well enough alone, I cranked the torque wrench up to 75 ft. lbs. It was at that point that the 2nd bolt from the left, on the bottom row (#4 in the torque sequence), 'broke' loose and turned about 1/4 turn. I wasn't sure if I was breaking the head off it or not but I kept going and it snugged down to 75 ft. lbs. without incident. Perhaps not coincidentally, that's also where the leak is. I cranked them all down to 75 lbs. just for fun and called it a night. I'll put it back together tomorrow but I'm hoping that the problem was that one bolt.

Jim
 
I would drain ALL the coolant and get rid of ALL that antifreeze ASAP before a disaster occurs to your bearings if an internal leak develops. Then try the GM pills again with just water or bearing safe, propylene glycol antifreeze as the coolant and at least you'll have piece of mind until you finally get the gaskets sealed.
 
I would drain ALL the coolant and get rid of ALL that antifreeze ASAP before a disaster occurs to your bearings if an internal leak develops. Then try the GM pills again with just water or bearing safe, propylene glycol antifreeze as the coolant and at least you'll have piece of mind until you finally get the gaskets sealed.

So far so good - it's just been seeping externally. I've run it up to about 25 PSI without any problems. Oil looks good. Coolant looks good too. I've put about 300 miles on it so far and the level in the overflow tank has dropped from FULL to ADD and seems to have stayed there.

I'm going to drain the oil tomorrow anyway since it's the 'break in' oil. Plus I have to replace the oil pump gaskets - they're leaking all over the place.

Jim
 
cometics

Just torqed mine down. Used copper, normally just use hytach w/ no issues. We,ll see!!! Good luck Jimmy!!
 
Just torqed mine down. Used copper, normally just use hytach w/ no issues. We,ll see!!! Good luck Jimmy!!

Thanks! I'm trying to avoid taking the head off. But, worst case is I'll take it off and spray it with copper and put it back on. It would just suck to have to do that.

Jim
 
It's still leaking, but not water. I'm thinking it might a compression leak now, which the tabs obviously won't fix.

What do you all think (other than my lifters are very noisy):

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AF4mLH6K5Q[/youtube]

Jim
 
I think that sucks.Looks like your going to hav to rip it apart again.I feel for you,i just ripped mine apart for head gaskets and realized how much fun it is.Good luck.
 
It's still leaking, but not water. I'm thinking it might a compression leak now, which the tabs obviously won't fix.


If the compression is low, I would pull the whole motor.

Also when you re-torque the heads, did you back off the fasteners? If you set your wrench to 65 ft lbs, it takes more force to break the fasteners loose. Hence the reason the fastener moved at 75.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
If the compression is low, I would pull the whole motor.

Also when you re-torque the heads, did you back off the fasteners? If you set your wrench to 65 ft lbs, it takes more force to break the fasteners loose. Hence the reason the fastener moved at 75.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

I didn't back off the bolts when I re-torqued them.

I haven't checked compression - I'm just guessing that that's what's causing that bubbling in the vid. I'm going to yank the head. I had nothing better to do this weekend anyway :rolleyes:

Or I can just bring it back to Dan. He offered to make good on it. But, it's 2 hours down, 2 hours back and however long it takes to fix. I can have the head off, back on and sealed in half-a-Saturday.

Jim
 
I took it out for a spin - it's a coolant leak (still). I'm going to try the tabs again before I take the head off.

Jim
 
Well, both head gaskets are still leaking. I'm going to take the engine back out. I need to replace the front cover anyway - I can't get the oil pump to seal and it looks pretty boogered up.

So can I re-use the cometics? Just coat with copper and slap 'em back on? I think I'll go with head studs this time, too (instead of bolts).

TIA,
Jim
 
headgaskets

I use the cometics on my new motor this time. I do have head studs. I coated both sides with copper spray and set the head on and torqued them down and then did the other side, them let it set over night. Next day checked the bolts to see if they stetched any. waited another day then i put the intake on, then checked the heads one more time, to see if any more stretch. So its been good to go so far for me. it worked for, maybe this will help some.

I dont know about reuseing them again, that would be for someone that has done that before.
 
I use the cometics on my new motor this time. I do have head studs. I coated both sides with copper spray and set the head on and torqued them down and then did the other side, them let it set over night. Next day checked the bolts to see if they stetched any. waited another day then i put the intake on, then checked the heads one more time, to see if any more stretch. So its been good to go so far for me. it worked for, maybe this will help some.

I dont know about reuseing them again, that would be for someone that has done that before.

Thanks for the reply.

I think I can re-use them. I'm just not sure what to look out for in the way of signs that I shouldn't re-use them.

Jim
 
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