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Hydroboost braking problem- sticking..

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The wildwood cyl should have come w/ an alum plug. I usually have to machine it down to keep the hb from pushing on the mc piston, when brakes are released.
Agree with Chuck here. If you install the plug as is it will push on the mc piston ever so slight. He'll I dont run that plug in mine

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I don't see any marks on the HB piston though?
 

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so remove the plug or machine it a bit?
 

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i must have posted the pic as you were typing your reply as its in the post before yours lol
 
the HB rod is smaller than the concave opening in that aluminum plug - without it i dont see how this HB will actuate the master at all --
 
Yeah the aftermarket HB unit has a small rod that's why you need the plunger. Put washers to space out the MC from HB as mentioned before. If that fixes it, take material off the plunger
 
i guess i could always grind some off the front face of the alum plunger as well as opposed to the HB rod - the larger master is in now- the thing was a F!ing Beeotch to bleed even on the bench- out road testing now
 
i got what i thought was the brakes working- there was no apparent bubbles but the pressure on the fluid leaving the calipers wasnt what i thought it should be- not clear geysers coming out when cracking the bleeders- on a hard stop the fronts would lock up and no rear drag with the prop valve open totally- brakes would not "pump up" so no air in system. pedal was soft but hydroboost is lots of assist. it was obvious when put car on dyno and the brakes couldnt stop the rear rollers then we knew for sure the rear brakes werent working - so then the fun began to see why the master wasnt putting the "same pressure" as wilwood says comes out of both ports--

- not impressed with their master cylinders - i had a 1" had same problem- bench bleeding was difficult (when its usually 2 min max with hoses back into res)
spent over 4 hours - re and re master at least 4 times- could not ge properly- this was after the car was already driving- so tried larger master
the 1 1/8 took 5 solid min of cycling with a second person so i could hold my finger over the bleed tube on release to keep the air in the line from going back into the master- after this put in car and got fronts to bleed right away - shooting fluid up 5-6" but the rears barely could dribble out - tried with the ass end up 2 feet in air to gravity bleed- no difference- removed prop valve just in case- no change- tried pressure bleed it couldnt seem to push past the master- 10 psi on bleeder and barely came out of calipers- -

after messing with this the most of yesterday i got pissed off and put in a dodge 1 1/8 alum master-- had to elongate holes and make a spacer about 1/2" long for internal rod but pretty sad when a $50 raybestos works 1000% better than a $200 wilwood one.

the dodge one bled in 5 or 6 pumps on the vise- then within 15 min was done doing all 4 calipers- pedal is firm and actually has rear brakes now- so that eliminates that the car itself had any issues making the wilwood not work properly- when i called wilwood for support they told me i had to use a vacuum bleeder-- i tried that to no success as well

every other master ive ever bench bled in my life pretty well when you pull the bleeder tubes out the fluid starts draining-- wilwood doesnt do that- ive used over 20 of their single masters on race cars no issues but this is first time on their dual street car type and i will probably never use it again..
 
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