I looked at the map sensor it looks brand new.
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I cant get it to run right please help!!! (video with scanmaster)
- Thread starter gmmaft
- Start date
as far as the coil goes I got
12.46 on 1 and 4
13.18 on 2 and 5
12.59 on 3 and 6
does that sound ok?
I will clean out the IAC valve as soon as I read up on how to do so.
thanks again
bill
Again i'm not really sure on what the variance should be.. the 2 and 5 are about 600 higher than the other two.. A while back a guy that used to work for a very well known builder told me that the with that big a difference he would change out the coil pack. But it might just be a matter of opinion... and i wouldn't want you spending money on someone's hunch...lol... I hope someone else who is more certain than me chimes in... or maybe you can start another thread and ask the specific question as i'd like to know for sure too.
well, thanks for pointing it out for me. any help is greatly appreciated.Again i'm not really sure on what the variance should be.. the 2 and 5 are about 600 higher than the other two.. A while back a guy that used to work for a very well known builder told me that the with that big a difference he would change out the coil pack. But it might just be a matter of opinion... and i wouldn't want you spending money on someone's hunch...lol... I hope someone else who is more certain than me chimes in... or maybe you can start another thread and ask the specific question as i'd like to know for sure too.
What chip do you have?no matter what I do I just cant seem to get her running correctly.
when the car is cold it runs and idles great but as soon as she closes her loop all her little secrets come out.
what I did so far:
new o2 sensor
fixed exhaust leak
upgraded fuel system (everything pump,lines,regulator,hotwire).
new battery
bench tested alternator
new neg battery cable
complete spring cleaning gapped at .035
new egr and solenoid.
it runs 90% better then when I got it but that idle surge when im stopped at a light is killing me.
I shot 2 videos today. the first one is warm idle parked.
the 2nd video is of me driving and stopping at lights.
the car drives awesome as long as its moving but the problem is when im at a light or in park ideling.
also, my brake power booster works sometimes and sometimes it dosent. usually If i hit a bump it will kick on. would the power booster have anything to do with the idle surge im having? if not I will look into the brake booster after I solve this problem.
ps. in the video it mey sound like the engine is knocking its not one of those pulleys are making noise.
What is your BL number at a warm idle after driving the car?
its the stock chip that comes with the car. I will reply with the BL number tomorrow after I take it out for a ride.What chip do you have?
What is your BL number at a warm idle after driving the car?
When the idle hunts (moves up and down) the motor is lean. The first thing to look for is a vacuum leak. The 141 BL number means the computer is adding fuel to the default values. The fact that it goes up and down means the IAC is OK. The problem could also be the MAF. Any un-meatered air entering the motor will cause a lean condition. Any air entering the motor after the MAF will cause a lean condition. You'll need to examine the air duct after the MAF for rips and look at all the vacuum hoses.BL was 141
Do you have aftermarket breathers on you valve covers?
Do you still have the hose that goes from the turbo bell to the passenger side valve cover?
all the air ducts look okWhen the idle hunts (moves up and down) the motor is lean. The first thing to look for is a vacuum leak. The 141 BL number means the computer is adding fuel to the default values. The fact that it goes up and down means the IAC is OK. The problem could also be the MAF. Any un-meatered air entering the motor will cause a lean condition. Any air entering the motor after the MAF will cause a lean condition. You'll need to examine the air duct after the MAF for rips and look at all the vacuum hoses.
Do you have aftermarket breathers on you valve covers?
Do you still have the hose that goes from the turbo bell to the passenger side valve cover?
no aftermarket breathers on the valve covers
all of the vacuum hoses were replaced with blue vacuum hoses
yes the hose from the turbo bell to the valve cover looks good.
I went for another drive just now and the BL shot up to 151 as I was pulling into my driveway.
all the air ducts look ok
no aftermarket breathers on the valve covers
all of the vacuum hoses were replaced with blue vacuum hoses
yes the hose from the turbo bell to the valve cover looks good.
I went for another drive just now and the BL shot up to 151 as I was pulling into my driveway.
When my BL went up that high I had just replaced my PCV valve with a RJC racing valve that was faulty i guess.. anyways, since it might be a possibility try getting the pcv valve out of the intake manifold and plug it... if your bl normalizes then you found the culprit..
I just replaced my PVC valve last week with a regular one when i did my spring cleaning. but I dont know what the BL was before I replaced the old one.When my BL went up that high I had just replaced my PCV valve with a RJC racing valve that was faulty i guess.. anyways, since it might be a possibility try getting the pcv valve out of the intake manifold and plug it... if your bl normalizes then you found the culprit..
I just replaced my PVC valve last week with a regular one when i did my spring cleaning. but I dont know what the BL was before I replaced the old one.
Some have had problems with the auto parts pcv valves... something about not being the correct one... Try pulling it out and seeing how much air if any its sucking in... with the rjc one i had, my hands would get stuck to the breather if i put it near it...lol.. post your scanmaster numbers at a warm idle... don't pump the gas, just let it warm up and post numbers of all the scanmaster readings...
the engine was still too hot to pull the PVC valve. I started it back up and let it idle for 5 minutes then shot this video.Some have had problems with the auto parts pcv valves... something about not being the correct one... Try pulling it out and seeing how much air if any its sucking in... with the rjc one i had, my hands would get stuck to the breather if i put it near it...lol.. post your scanmaster numbers at a warm idle... don't pump the gas, just let it warm up and post numbers of all the scanmaster readings...
the engine was still too hot to pull the PVC valve. I started it back up and let it idle for 5 minutes then shot this video.
TPS is to high, try to adjust it to get .42 to .44
IAC is also to high, try to adjust it for 20 to 25
Try to get the IAC numbers inline first, so set the TPS low to .36 while adjusting the IAC, the TPS numbers will go up while making adjustments to the IAC. Once the IAC numbers are set then adjust the TPS numbers if needed.
The 2 mal codes showing #32 is a faulty EGR valve and #34 is a faulty MAF
thanksTPS is to high, try to adjust it to get .42 to .44
IAC is also to high, try to adjust it for 20 to 25
Try to get the IAC numbers inline first, so set the TPS low to .36 while adjusting the IAC, the TPS numbers will go up while making adjustments to the IAC. Once the IAC numbers are set then adjust the TPS numbers if needed.
The 2 mal codes showing #32 is a faulty EGR valve and #34 is a faulty MAF
those codes came up today when I unplugged my maf sensor to see if there was any change in the idle surge and there was not so I just plugged it back in. and tose codes came up. usually there are no codes.
Pull the hose off of the PCV and plug it. Follow each of the metal tubes,that connect to the vacuum block on top of the throttle body,until you get to where rubber hose is connected to them. Disconnect the rubber hoses from them and cap the metal tubes off. Don't do this to the one that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. Run the car to see if the IAC number drops. Also not the BL number.I just replaced my PVC valve last week with a regular one when i did my spring cleaning. but I dont know what the BL was before I replaced the old one.
To move the IAC number down,if needed after capping the lines,star the car and adjust the Scanmaster to show the IAC value. Turn the Idle adjustment screw,on the throttle body,in clockwise to open the throttle blades. As the computer sees the RPM rise it will close the Idle Air Control valve (IAC) to bring the idle down. This will cause the IAC number to lower. 25 is a good number. It's not that important. After you get the number down, adjust the Scanmaster to show TPS and adjust until the number is .45 at an idle. Do this while the motor is not running and adjust the WOT TPS to 4.5ish. Anything over 4.oo will work. Start the car and check the idle TPS number again to see if it changed.
Go all the way back to the second and third posts in this thread. Your TPS is showing 0.48 volts at idle. That's right on the threshold of where the ECU transitions between idle and "gas pedal pressed down". The ECU runs the engine differently in each of these modes. It's going to act strange until you adjust this.
Do a search for "how to adjust IAC and TPS". The procedure that is linked on GNTTYPE.ORG is fine. It's easy to do, doesn't cost any money, and has a good chance of fixing your problem. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, this needs to be adjusted, otherwise the ECU will never think the car is idling, and other strange stuff is going to happen.
Do a search for "how to adjust IAC and TPS". The procedure that is linked on GNTTYPE.ORG is fine. It's easy to do, doesn't cost any money, and has a good chance of fixing your problem. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, this needs to be adjusted, otherwise the ECU will never think the car is idling, and other strange stuff is going to happen.
Go all the way back to the second and third posts in this thread. Your TPS is showing 0.48 volts at idle. That's right on the threshold of where the ECU transitions between idle and "gas pedal pressed down". The ECU runs the engine differently in each of these modes. It's going to act strange until you adjust this.
Do a search for "how to adjust IAC and TPS". The procedure that is linked on GNTTYPE.ORG is fine. It's easy to do, doesn't cost any money, and has a good chance of fixing your problem. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, this needs to be adjusted, otherwise the ECU will never think the car is idling, and other strange stuff is going to happen.
Step #1... set the TPS and IAC and see what happens to the idle and scanmaster numbers... fueling changes as soon as the ecm sees over .46... do that and then post scanmaster numbers... I was under the assumption that this had been done already...lol
I wasnt too sure how to ajdust the tps and iac. to be honest im a little scared to touch the tps because when I changed a weak tps on my 3000gt I was never able to get the adjustment corect (it kept backfiring on decel). but I will read up on it tonight and do it in the morning. hey at least im learning a lot about these cars.lolStep #1... set the TPS and IAC and see what happens to the idle and scanmaster numbers... fueling changes as soon as the ecm sees over .46... do that and then post scanmaster numbers... I was under the assumption that this had been done already...lol
There's no need to read anything. I described,in great detail,what you need to do in post#35.but I will read up on it tonight and do it in the morning. hey at least im learning a lot about these cars.lol
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