ok thanks, I will do it in the morning and post the scanmaster readings.
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I cant get it to run right please help!!! (video with scanmaster)
- Thread starter gmmaft
- Start date
There's no need to read anything. I described,in great detail,what you need to do in post#35.
yea.. it's actually quite simple.. only 2 screws to loosen gmmaft... pull it forward towards the grille and adjust from there.
ok, so im doing the tps first, then the iac,then readjusting the tps again right?
thanks everyone for jumping in. Im doing my best to keep this car running.
bill
It's really easy....
1. Start the car and get it up to operating temperature.
2. With the engine-off, key-on, adjust the TPS per the GNTTYPE procedure so that you get the following on the Scanmaster:
0.40 to 0.42 volts with your foot off the gas pedal.
Over 4.0 volts when you push the gas pedal to the floor.
(note: many people say you need to have at least 4.6 or more volts when you floor the gas pedal. This is not true. Just make sure it's comfortably over 4.0 volts when you floor it. 4.25 volts would be fine. You should not have to reem out the TPS slots as is sometimes suggested. Try sliding the TPS all the way forward and then rotating it to achieve the 0.42 volts - this ususally helps to get the highest WOT value possible.)
3. After securing the screws that hold the TPS, start the car. Make sure that at idle, your TPS volts are BELOW 0.46 volts (I make sure mine are in the 0.42 to 0.44 range for a margin of safety). On most cars, the TPS volts jump by about 0.02 when you start the engine - i.e. if you set the TPS to 0.40 volts with the engine off, you will probably see it jump to 0.42 volts after you start the engine.
4. Once the car is warm and in closed-loop, look at your IAC reading at idle. Make sure they are in the 15 to 40 range, with 20 to 25 being"perfect".
If the IAC reading is too LOW, then turn the throttle body screw a little counter-clockwise.
If the IAC reading is too HIGH, then turn the throttle body screw a little clockwise.
(Warning: if the TPS volts go over 0.45 volts while turning the throttle body screw clockwise, you are no longer in idle mode. Shut the car off and go back to Step 2.)
5. Repeat Steps 2 through 4 above until you get the TPS and IAC readings to be in good values:
TPS at 0.40 to 0.42 volts with the engine-off, key-on.
TPS reading over 4.0 volts when you floor the gas pedal with the engine-off, key-on.
IAC reading between 15 and 40 with the car running at idle, engine warm, in closed loop.
It's an iterative process and takes a little time, but once you get there, you will probably find that your car will idle a a lot better.
Good luck,
I made the adjustments to the tps and iac. took it for a 45 minute drive. its still had a little surge to it.
I shot this video just as I pulled into my driveway.
When you stated "it's surging" your O2 sensor was stuck at close to 000 at that exact moment... Means you are getting tons of air into the engine causing it to lean out.. the other strange thing is that your BLM went from 116 to 150... try capping the pcv line as was previously suggested and see what happens...
ok I pulled out the pcv plugged the intake manifold still no change (no suction or anything at the pvc port in the manifold)
bl still at 150
I plugged the other and of the pvc at the vacuum port also.
bl still at 150
I disconnected the maf sensor. cel went on
bl at 119
bl still at 150
I plugged the other and of the pvc at the vacuum port also.
bl still at 150
I disconnected the maf sensor. cel went on
bl at 119
no I never touched the egr valve. the valve and solenoid look brand new. no i dont have a hand vacuum pump. should I buy one?Did you disconnect the egr valve recently for any reason? you have a code 32 which refers to the egr valve... If your egr valve is stuck open it could cause lots of problems also.. do you have a hand vacuum pump around?
do you have a good known maf yuo can switch out to? A vacuum pump can help you test to see if the egr is stuck open... the egr may be the culprit... I think most parts stores will let you borrow one or rent one. though they are somewhat inexpensive... as low as $30
ok I pulled out the pcv plugged the intake manifold still no change (no suction or anything at the pvc port in the manifold)
bl still at 150
I plugged the other and of the pvc at the vacuum port also.
bl still at 150
I disconnected the maf sensor. cel went on
bl at 119
that eliminates that theory..
I dont have a maf that I can test with. but I bought a maf translator from Tricksixpa that should be here on tuesday. then I can test the gm 3.0"ls1 maf sensor that I currently have on my 3000gt. in the meantime is there any more tests that I can do now? when I unplug the maf sensor the cel goes on so the ecu knows when its disconnected. does that mean anything?do you have a good known maf yuo can switch out to? A vacuum pump can help you test to see if the egr is stuck open... the egr may be the culprit... I think most parts stores will let you borrow one or rent one. though they are somewhat inexpensive... as low as $30
the check engine will come on as soon as you unplug the maf.. thats normal.. the translator and maf will definitely be an improvement... the only thing left to do is test the egr imo... when you apply vacuum to the egr valve with a pump you should hear the engine change as exhaust gas is introduced into the cylinder... if you don't hear a change in the engine then you know there is something wrong with the egr system...
CODE 32
Trouble Code 32 indicates that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve diaphragm is not where the ECM expects it to be. The ECM controls the diaphragm with a Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) waveform. The EGR has a vacuum bleed solenoid that adjusts the vacuum applied to the EGR valve based on this pulse width. If there is sufficient vacuum at the EGR valve, a switch closes to send a signal back to the ECM. The absence of this signal is the bases for code 32.
The conditions for setting this code are:
Typical causes for this code include:
1) Faulty EGR valve-to-ECM connection
2) Plugged EGR passages and/or sticking EGR valve
3) Defective EGR valve
4) Defective ECM
CODE 32
Trouble Code 32 indicates that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve diaphragm is not where the ECM expects it to be. The ECM controls the diaphragm with a Pulse-Width Modulated (PWM) waveform. The EGR has a vacuum bleed solenoid that adjusts the vacuum applied to the EGR valve based on this pulse width. If there is sufficient vacuum at the EGR valve, a switch closes to send a signal back to the ECM. The absence of this signal is the bases for code 32.
The conditions for setting this code are:
- no vacuum to EGR (switch open), and
- Code 33 or 34 (MAF error) is not present, and
- engine running and LV8 is less than 100, and
- coolant temperature is > 118 deg F (48 deg C), and
- the EGR solenoid duty cycle is < 65%, and
- the above conditions are met for more than 25 seconds
Typical causes for this code include:
1) Faulty EGR valve-to-ECM connection
2) Plugged EGR passages and/or sticking EGR valve
3) Defective EGR valve
4) Defective ECM
This is what you should see. The way that your BL number moves back and fourth from 116 to 150 at an idle leads me to strongly suspect the MAF. I'll assume you noted a corresponding rise and fall in RPM along with a corresponding roughness and smoothness. I went through this same symptom a month ago and it was my new plastic 3.5" LS1 MAF sensor. I went to a local salvage yard and purchase two 3.5" aluminum LS1 sensors for $25.00 a piece. The car has never run this good.I unplug the maf sensor the cel goes on so the ecu knows when its disconnected. does that mean anything?
LT1I can test the gm 3.0"ls1 maf sensor
yes, that was a type-o.lol
so should I buy a vacuum pump today of just wait till the translator comes?
also if I ave to drive it shoud I leave the maf connected or disconnected for now?
yes, that was a type-o.lol
so should I buy a vacuum pump today of just wait till the translator comes?
also if I ave to drive it shoud I leave the maf connected or disconnected for now?
I would wait and see if the maf cures the problem.. no need spending more $$ if the maf is the culprit.. clear the fault codes by disconnecting the orange wire by the battery for about 30 seconds as that wire supplies power to the ecm... plug the maf back in while driving.. my car wouldn't even turn on without the maf signal..
mine runs the same with the maf connected or disconnected. the only difference is the cel.I would wait and see if the maf cures the problem.. no need spending more $$ if the maf is the culprit.. clear the fault codes by disconnecting the orange wire by the battery for about 30 seconds as that wire supplies power to the ecm... plug the maf back in while driving.. my car wouldn't even turn on without the maf signal..
I will thanksit probably goes into a "limp home" mode.. either way probably best to leave it connected.. let us know how it runs with the translator
bill
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