You don't need a vacuum pump to test the EGR,but it's a good tool to have. Like anything else,it will cost more tomorrow so you might as well buy it today.
I cant get it to run right please help!!! (video with scanmaster)
- Thread starter gmmaft
- Start date
is it the same tool as a brake bleed vacuum pump?
You can use it for that. It's typically the only vacuum pump that the auto parts store will have. If you buy one,it would be a good idea to get one that allows you to pressurize things also.
FYI,you don't need a pump or an assistant to bleed your brakes. Open each bleeder,one at a time,and let gravity do the work.
ok, I got the LT1 maf sensor and translator set up and installed. there is no change at all. all the numbers are still the same. BL at 150.
Last night I tested my stock maf on my friends 86 t-type and it was fine. so its safe to say that its not the maf sensor.
I guess I will but the vacuum pump and see if that changes anything. hey I also notice that if I press the brake pedal (even tho my powermaster is blown) the idle gets much worse for a second or 2 then corrects itsef.
Last night I tested my stock maf on my friends 86 t-type and it was fine. so its safe to say that its not the maf sensor.
I guess I will but the vacuum pump and see if that changes anything. hey I also notice that if I press the brake pedal (even tho my powermaster is blown) the idle gets much worse for a second or 2 then corrects itsef.
Did you go to the ends of each metal vacuum line and cap them off (except the fuel pressure regulator)?
Are the BL numbers still bouncing back and forth from 116 to 150 at idle?
no, I dont see any uncapped metal lines or and vacuum ports that are not connected to vacuum lines. but I did notice this....
please see pics. could any of these be causing my BL problem?
Attachments
I want you to disconnect the rubber hoses that connect to each metal vacuum line and cap the lines (except the regulator line). Any place that air can enter the motor after the MAF can cause a high BL number at an idle.
There's a vacuum switch that is triggered by the brake pedal for the operation of the cruise control.This is one of the things that you will me testing when you cap off all the metal lines.
looks like a definite vacuum leak now... do as ttype6 suggests and cap the lines from the vacuum block... As for the vacuum pump, you can test the egr without it by pushing it up from the bottom with something like a screwdriver.
ok, Im heading to the auto parts store for some vacuum caps now. I will update shortly
thanks guys
I capped off everything at the vacuum block except the fpr. I cant find the vacuum line going to the powermaster. and I plugged the hose from the turbo to the passenger side valve cover. thats all the vacuum ports I could find. so I started it up. in closed loop the bl stays at like 130-136 for about 2 minutes then goes back up to 150 and stays there until I rev it then it goes back down. Is there any other way to find a vac. leak? I dont ear any hissing or anything. hey could a kink in the fuel tank vapor line be causing all of this?
Are you still running the stock, unheated oxygen sensor?
Start you car and let it idle again. Flip back and forth between O2 volts and BL reading on your scanmaster. While idling in closed loop, do you oxygen sensor volts go up and down? At the time when your BL climbs to 150, do the O2 volts stop going up and down?
Let us know what happens...
Start you car and let it idle again. Flip back and forth between O2 volts and BL reading on your scanmaster. While idling in closed loop, do you oxygen sensor volts go up and down? At the time when your BL climbs to 150, do the O2 volts stop going up and down?
Let us know what happens...
In one of the posted videos the O2 counts get stuck at close to .000 and the BL goes to 150 and bounce back to 116 and back to 150... Only other thing I can think of is the EGR valve not functioning properly as he had a trouble code... Have you tried testing the EGR valve yet gmmaft? Push up from the bottom of it and you should see a change in the idle of the motor.... it should start to run a little rough as the egr is opened... another possibility is that you might have a vacuum leak there since you stated that it looked new? Take some O2 safe carb cleaner and spray it around the base of the egr valve and spray the throttle body area too while you are at it... Do this with a cold engine as the carb cleaner is flammable!! If there is a leak then the carb cleaner should get sucked in through the leak and you will notice a change in the idle of the car... remember, A COLD Engine!!
Ill go check it right now and get back to you
thanks
I did the egr test and it stumbled. sorry about the pully noise my compressor is done
When you got the translator did you make sure the switches inside were set correctly? A little off subject just curious... I now notice you have a code 31 on the scanmaster...
CODE 31
Trouble Code 31 indicates that the Wastegate Solenoid may not be functioning correctly. The wastegate solenoid is controlled by a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal from the ECM. The ECM controls turbo boost by varying the PWM waveform (duty cycle) to the wastegate. The wastegate responds by bleeding off exhaust pressure upstream of the turbine, thus controlling boost pressure.
The conditions for setting this code are:
Typical causes for this code include:
1) Poor or corroded connections between the ECM and the wastegate solenoid
2) Open or shorted solenoid
3) Defective, sticking or maladjusted wastegate linkage
4) Defective ECM
Ensure correct operation of other engine subsystems, including but not limited to the TPS and MAF sensors and check the wastegate actuation hardware.
Everytime you post there seems to be a new code...lol.. have you inspected the headers to make sure there are no cracks at all?
CODE 31
Trouble Code 31 indicates that the Wastegate Solenoid may not be functioning correctly. The wastegate solenoid is controlled by a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal from the ECM. The ECM controls turbo boost by varying the PWM waveform (duty cycle) to the wastegate. The wastegate responds by bleeding off exhaust pressure upstream of the turbine, thus controlling boost pressure.
The conditions for setting this code are:
- the ECM is commanding a solenoid duty cycle of between 5% and 94%, and
- no electrical feedback is being received from the solenoid, and
- the above conditions are met for 2 seconds.
Typical causes for this code include:
1) Poor or corroded connections between the ECM and the wastegate solenoid
2) Open or shorted solenoid
3) Defective, sticking or maladjusted wastegate linkage
4) Defective ECM
Ensure correct operation of other engine subsystems, including but not limited to the TPS and MAF sensors and check the wastegate actuation hardware.
Everytime you post there seems to be a new code...lol.. have you inspected the headers to make sure there are no cracks at all?
well I just had the drivers side header re welded since it was cracked when I bought the car . as far ia thr drivers side goes im not sure I never took it off but I dont smell anything.
as far as the codes go. yesterday as I was pilling out from the sholder I floored it just to see if anything would change under that load. well anyways the wheels spun and the whole 9 yards. ever since the that code has been coming up. now only code 31 comes up. no other codes.
as far as the translator goes I set it correctly for the sensor. but I set it 10% richer on the sensor setting and 5% richer on the fuel trim setting. and it seemed to idle better like that. should I switch it back to the regular settings?
Passenger side headers crack too... take a look at it to be sure... you definitely have air getting in somewhere... besides that im stumped lol... only thing I would consider if it was me would be taking off both headers and crossover pipe to be competely sure there are no cracks. if that doesn't solve it then a smoke test on the motor... and lastly your ecm troubles me with the different codes its been spitting out... Could try finding someone with a known good one and trying it out... thats all I got...lol.. what version translator did you get and what maf?
its a new ecu. the old one did the same thing. I still was not able to do the egr leak test because the car was hot. should I still check that even tho the egr is working? its the older maf translator not the 6.25 the one right before that. and I tried a 3" and a 3.5" maf with a reducer and set everything up correctly on the translator for each sensor that I tried. no change.
Is there any way to tell for sure If I have a leak in the passenger header bacause my hands are huge and im not sure I can get to those studs in the back. would an exhaust leak cause the bl numbers to go that high? the smoke test how do I do that?
thanks
bill
ps I just did my motor mounts today so at least its not jumping all over the place.lol
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