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I have to decide on a turbo

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The_Six

Active Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
1,309
Ok time for me to start to decide on a turbo. I wanted to keep the original a little while longer but its leaking some oil so I know it ether needs new seals or its time to upgrade.
My plans are to be able to run low to mid 11s. I don’t plan on caging my car so that’s as fast as it needs to be. Other then mods in my sig I have an upgraded fuel system currently a 340 but changing to a Bosh 044.
First my budget is going to be close $1000 I just can’t do much more than that. So here is my thought I figure I have 3 options
1) Keep stock convertor and get a te-44 (could get new convertor to help cut down on slip or use cash some were else on car)
2) Keep stock convertor get new style JB turbo 5957E, 5857E or?
3) Get a bigger old school turbo like a TE-60 and a new convertor
I know options 1 and 2 are the more street able options and options (2 and 3 may get me in the low 11s a little easier) Just need to find that deciding factor.
 
Check out the turbo testing thread that Otto and Bison have going in the general tech section. That may help you choose.
 
I know you said you only want to go low 11's but id still buy acapable of going into the 10s so you can run lower boost to get to your goal. Who knows there may come a day you get the itch to go faster. This will save you the trouble of buying twice.
 
Thanks guys havent went to the track like this yet its all new before the rebuild I was totaly stock . I wanted to try and push the stock turbo as far as it would take me,but then I got thinking every thing is new why put a leaky turbo back on.
 
Billet 58/57S (I'd get at least the S cover, Ported if you plan on an intercooler upgrade), should cost below $1k and you'll have a somewhat similar spool to the stocker but make WAY more power. Since there have been a few that have gone high 10's with the TA49, then you can definitely do it with that turbo and then some.
 
44 all day long, has been 10's, spools like a mother so tons of fun on the street.

Hard to improve upon a 44/49 on a street car.
 
I was thinking old school 44 over the Billet 58/57S only becuse then I could also get a convertor Im sure my old D5 will be slipping some with 130k on it.
Whne I was looking at the 44 times on here most guys that had one were in the 12s dont see many in 11 let alone 10s I would like to see what else a car with a 44 in the tens had done to it.
 
Post from Patrick from Precision Turbo:the fastest I have ever seen a TE-44 run in a full weight Buick, is in the 10.90 range. The problem you run into is, you reach a level where you approach an over speed condition at that power level. Not too mention super heated charge temps at the 29-32psi range. At that level, the TE-44 is way out of it's efficiency range. I'd call it a day at around 28psi with a TE-44 if it was me. Technically it's rated to support 565 flywheel hp maxed out at around 30psi. And doing the math, a 3600# full weight Turbo Buick would need roughly 536 - 540 rear wheel hp to run 10.90's reliably. If you figure in 18% drivetrain loss, this comes out to 637 flywheel hp to run those times and mph. It's not impossible to run those numbers with a TE-44, especially if you throw in alky injection and seriously crank the boost past 30psi, it's just not good for the rotating assembly. And don't forget about those guys who have mixed a little bit of laughing gas together with a TE-44 either. These figures are just math on paper. Hopefully more guys who have really pushed a TE-44 hard will post their results. There are a lot of them out there.

Patrick
 
The 44/49 with a .63 Garrett ex housing is going to make as much power as anything else and be much cheaper and still be ok with the stock converter. If he decide on changing heads id look into something else. I have run the 44 over 25psi/5700rpm hundreds of times on an engine that had good heads and cam. I never had one fail. I was likely not over 500whp with it either. It takes about 460whp to run high tens in a 3600lb g body.
 
Whne I was looking at the 44 times on here most guys that had one were in the 12s dont see many in 11 let alone 10s I would like to see what else a car with a 44 in the tens had done to it.
Dont be deceived by the crappy tuning ability and poor selection of parts by most. The TA49 has been 10.80's on an unopened engine. Good fuel, boost, and a tuning device like a powerlogger combined with suspension work, good drag strip conditions, and someone that knows what they are doing will produce the results. There is no magic tricks. If the engine cant use the air the turbo by itself wont do anything to make more power. With a good set of heads and 25psi mid to low 11's would be no problem with the 44.
 
Melissa's old WE4 ran mid 11s in street trim for years with a 44 on a stock motor and converter with blue top 36# inj. :cool:
 
if you're interested, I have a good used GT6152E Turbo that is perfect for a 11.20-10.80 car. Asking $450 plus shipping (or I can bring to to Bowling Green).
 
FWIW, the turbo above is a 61/62 and can make some power, more than a 10.80 for sure, I have it in my Talon (S cover though).

After looking at your Mods OP you're probably one of us who says, "I just want a mid 11 car" and you're not going to stay there. The fact you took the time to convert to E85 will negate any conservativeness you're intending. The E85 pump will talk you out of any mid 11's talk. LOL ;)

The stock converter is easily holding you back and lets say you go to a PTC 10" lockup, you'll then be able to run a bigger turbo with no spool up issues so you're in that no mans land where Mid 11's is something you do on your street tune because you can without much issue.:cool:

We have similar combos and not track cars, but next year I'm going 62/65 and plan on running mid 11's as my street tune on E85.
 
It is hard to argue with a TE44.... or a TA49 for that matter.... either one has the potential to go into the high 10's.....either with the Garrett 63 housing would be OK with a stock converter..... They will run mid to low 11's without beating the balls off of it too.....

I'd say get a good used TE44 and an RJC boost controller..... a Razor's alky kit..... and a datalogger..... change the fuel pump out to a hot wired 340 Walbro.....and sneak up on a tuneup..... You should be under $1000 if you look hard and buy right....
 
my advice is if you don't plan on putting a cage in the car you will need to be 11.49 or slower period.i got permanetly asked to not come back untill i have the proper safety equipment after a 10 sec pass even after dropping the mph off the 1st pass i made.i ran a 49 turbo down to low 11's and it wasn't easy,however 11.40's/50's was very consistant at 3750-3800lbs.just throw an old school turbo on it with a tight ex housing and play and have fun:biggrin:
 
Don’t have it listed in my sig but I’m using the trans pro as a boost controller and my fuel pump is a WB340 but I’m switching to a Bosh 044 in tank. Write now I know my big limitation is the 80s with e-85 then its heads then the stock short block. I’ve always looked as the convertor to be part of the turbo since most the time you can’t change one without changing the other. Truthfully I would put a cage in the car if they would change the rules about the center cross bar not being removable I have 2 kids one still in a car seat and can’t have that bar in the car when we are out cruzing . If I go 44 would it be worth a convertor change I would think it would help the 60ft a little with less slip and possibly faster spool.
I’ll have to read up on the GT6152E today. Thanks
 
Don’t have it listed in my sig but I’m using the trans pro as a boost controller and my fuel pump is a WB340 but I’m switching to a Bosh 044 in tank. Write now I know my big limitation is the 80s with e-85 then its heads then the stock short block. I’ve always looked as the convertor to be part of the turbo since most the time you can’t change one without changing the other. Truthfully I would put a cage in the car if they would change the rules about the center cross bar not being removable I have 2 kids one still in a car seat and can’t have that bar in the car when we are out cruzing . If I go 44 would it be worth a convertor change I would think it would help the 60ft a little with less slip and possibly faster spool.
I’ll have to read up on the GT6152E today. Thanks


I was going to mention the 6152..... but you mentioned the $1000 budget... and the 6152 would definately need a converter change to make full use of it's potential. With your immediate goals... I thin you would be very happy with a 44.... IMHO.
 
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