I know it's not my wifes fault but damn.....

[ncmalko1]

Every time I let her take the GN for a spin something goes wrong. When you accelerateThe Turbo Lights on my Digital Dash don't light up. How do I fix that?

 

[ncmalko1]

is that a sign of any trouble??

 

[krom]

Check connections passenger side engine bay.

 

[turbojimmy]

It's not necessarily a sign of any trouble. There is a Hobbs switch mounted on the passenger side fender. Make sure the vacuum line is still hooked up to it and check the connector on it.

I have no idea when the lights are supposed to come on, but mine start to light while I'm still under vacuum. The switch can be adjusted but I'm not sure how.

Jim

 

[TurboDave]

It's rare but that switch can go bad. From the factory they were adjusted to come on at about 2# and 6#. You'll see little tiny adjusting screws on one end, but they have locktite on them so it's dicey trying to adjust them.

The lights are nothing more than a boost indicator, and as such are pretty useless, and probably not a sign of any trouble.

 

[salvageV6]

You can easily check the wiring and the dash bulbs as follows.

Take the connector off the hobbs switch, 2 wire plug, take a piece of wire and strip both ends back a bit, stick one end in the factory socket and ground the other end to the fenderwell area clean metal.

KEY ON test car not running, when you ground each wire in the socket the light should light up on the dash. Easy test.

If they both light up when grounded first check to make sure the switch is bolted to the fenderwell area tightly and the metal is clean to make a good ground under it, as the case of the hobbs switch is what gets grounded to operate the lights.

Obviously make sure the hose is attached well too, zip tie the rubber bootie and hard line on it.

If you have well regulated shop air put a hose to the barb end of the switch and activate it with 1-10 psi. of regulated shop air and with the KEY ON car not running the lights should come on in that range.

Easiest way to calibrate it if you play with the adjusting screws is to use well regulated shop air. The units metal case to each connector prong will short when the switch activates with the shop air. Obviously one should be set at about 2psi. and the other at about 6psi. or so.

 

[Blazer406]

It's not necessarily a sign of any trouble. There is a Hobbs switch mounted on the passenger side fender. Make sure the vacuum line is still hooked up to it and check the connector on it.

I have no idea when the lights are supposed to come on, but mine start to light while I'm still under vacuum. The switch can be adjusted but I'm not sure how.

Jim

I believe this is a 2 bar map sensor.....not a hobbs switch. A hobbs switch has only a contact that opens or closes at the "set point" for vacuum or boost. The Map sensor has a variable voltage output that changes with boost. I believe it varies between 0 and 5 v.

HTH

 

[wagon]

I believe this is a 2 bar map sensor.....not a hobbs switch. A hobbs switch has only a contact that opens or closes at the "set point" for vacuum or boost. The Map sensor has a variable voltage output that changes with boost. I believe it varies between 0 and 5 v.

HTH

The 2 bar map sensor is on the analog dash cars. The digital dash cars have a pressure switch with two contacts. This is a digital dash car.

 

[ncmalko1]

I say this after every post, but this web site is AMAZING. All you guys are awesome. Thanks fellas.

 

[Blazer406]

The 2 bar map sensor is on the analog dash cars. The digital dash cars have a pressure switch with two contacts. This is a digital dash car.

I stand corrected.... I had my head up my @ss I guess......

Carry on...... :redface:

 

[turbojimmy]

I stand corrected.... I had my head up my @ss I guess......

Carry on...... :redface:

You were trying to help, which is all that matters. It's a little known difference between the digital and analog dash.

Jim