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I need some serious help with this XFI POS box.

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sixgun86gn

six offender
Joined
Feb 10, 2002
Messages
3,470
I have not been able to make this POS work once.

I did the flash updates,I make changes to a program,write it to the ecm and as soon as I turn the key off it goes back to what was there before!

I have an MSD crank trigger sensor with a speedstar wheel,wired to pin A4 and A2 like it should be,with A8 grounded.

Crank reference is at 50*,rotor is phased in at 25*,I checked the spark and it is there.

Before I have been able to get it to try to start and then it would die,I noticed tonight that I am getting a cam signal,but my crank signal flashes one time and i get no points lights or injector lights.

I have not been doing anything other than wiring a shielded pickup wire to the A connector.

WTF is wrong with this box?Has anybody had this problem before?

Also while cranking a friend noticed that the MAP didn't change from 100KPa at all.
 
I have not been able to make this POS work once.

I did the flash updates,I make changes to a program,write it to the ecm and as soon as I turn the key off it goes back to what was there before!

I have an MSD crank trigger sensor with a speedstar wheel,wired to pin A4 and A2 like it should be,with A8 grounded.

Crank reference is at 50*,rotor is phased in at 25*,I checked the spark and it is there.

Before I have been able to get it to try to start and then it would die,I noticed tonight that I am getting a cam signal,but my crank signal flashes one time and i get no points lights or injector lights.

I have not been doing anything other than wiring a shielded pickup wire to the A connector.

WTF is wrong with this box?Has anybody had this problem before?

Also while cranking a friend noticed that the MAP didn't change from 100KPa at all.

Do you have the proper air gap on the crank pickup?

If the crank light isnt flashing during cranking there must be no signal.
Also make sure the polarity is correct on the crank trigger wires
 
What should the air gap be?

Right now its probably 1/32" or less.

I have the green wire in A4 and violet in A2 ,checked the pickup with an ohmmeter and it reads just fine,not open.What shuold be spliced together on the dist adapter? my wires on my dist are ORG/BLK,VIO/BLK,not orange and green like the instruction sheet says.I think I have those right but I want to make sure.

I did try putting a voltmeter on the pickup wires and see if there was a signal while cranking,there was none,but then again a digital voltmeter doesn't react fast enough probably.

Too late to try anymore,will try again in the morning.
 
What should the air gap be?

Right now its probably 1/32" or less.

I have the green wire in A4 and violet in A2 ,checked the pickup with an ohmmeter and it reads just fine,not open.What shuold be spliced together on the dist adapter? my wires on my dist are ORG/BLK,VIO/BLK,not orange and green like the instruction sheet says.I think I have those right but I want to make sure.

I did try putting a voltmeter on the pickup wires and see if there was a signal while cranking,there was none,but then again a digital voltmeter doesn't react fast enough probably.

Too late to try anymore,will try again in the morning.

I would think 1/32 is ok,Check with speedstar or msd though,Any chance the magnets in the wheel arent strong enough? i dont know much about what the require.

On the dist the violet is positive.
On the crank Violet is negative

are you using a Distributor or Coil pack on this?
 
I did the flash updates,I make changes to a program,write it to the ecm and as soon as I turn the key off it goes back to what was there before!

I like your thread title. :D

On a serious note, You should see the power light remain lit and then dim as when the key off (switched) 12v the ECU writes the changes to FLASH memory. Are you sure you are not cutting the batt 12v at the same time? I set my air gap at .060. The range is from .050 to .080. IF THE PICKUP is a MSD.


I believe the Speedstar wheel uses a MSD inductive pickup and you should have the IPU selected.
 
I have the IPU set,I am using a distributor with 7al2 and HVC coil.

I will check and make sure the battery voltage isn't getting cut when I try to start.
 
Update.

Now have crank,points and injector signal,my pin connectors for the pickup were too loose on the pins.

Got that fixed.

now the car will start but only runs for like 1/2 second.

I keep adding fuel to no effect.

On my afterstart vs. cts table the little cicle is on 0 and not my line,does that mean it is not adding any afterstart enrichment?

I have the revs to run set at around 33. Cranking fuel PW at around 30,any less and it just keeps cranking.

what am i doing wrong?

I have the computer memory wire in the BATT location on the fuse block,the ignition power on the BATT,and the 12v switched power for the ignition tapped into the ecm/ign fuse spot.

I don't believe I am dropping spark once I let off the key,and power is good in start or run for the ecm.

My MAP is reading 100 KPa at all times,anbd my spark table shows 10* timing for that cell? I think the MAP is bad,which would suck because it was brand new with the computer kit and they are like $90!

Would a condition like that not allow the motor to keep running after start?
 
I will make a copy of my file tonight and send it.I sent the original startup program last time,I have installed the updates.They must have loaded OK because CCom 1.333 is working with the ecm.

I would greatly appreciate the help,I am a complete idiot when it comes to this stuff.

The manual FAST gives leaves ALOT to be desired.

I keep having other problems that the manual does not help out with.

After about 3 times of getting it to crank off is says lost sync! and puts up a comm read failed,sometimes a comm write failed.

Doesn't matter what i change the file I read to the ecm doesn't keep and it goes back to the original startup file.

I will resend the startup file Cal sent and the one i have had made changes to and you can compare them.

Thank you Otto.
 
Update.

Now have crank,points and injector signal,my pin connectors for the pickup were too loose on the pins.

Got that fixed.

now the car will start but only runs for like 1/2 second.

I keep adding fuel to no effect.

On my afterstart vs. cts table the little cicle is on 0 and not my line,does that mean it is not adding any afterstart enrichment?

I have the revs to run set at around 33. Cranking fuel PW at around 30,any less and it just keeps cranking.

what am i doing wrong?

I have the computer memory wire in the BATT location on the fuse block,the ignition power on the BATT,and the 12v switched power for the ignition tapped into the ecm/ign fuse spot.

I don't believe I am dropping spark once I let off the key,and power is good in start or run for the ecm.

My MAP is reading 100 KPa at all times,anbd my spark table shows 10* timing for that cell? I think the MAP is bad,which would suck because it was brand new with the computer kit and they are like $90!

Would a condition like that not allow the motor to keep running after start?

I would not be connecting the battery 12V to the fuse block. The best place for that connection is directly at the battery. Put a test light on that circuit when you are cranking, I would bet that it dims and even might go out. If so that is most likely the source of your problem. Its not the XFI's fault if it is not seeing the correct inputs that it needs. Before you pass judgement on a product I would make sure you have everything connected properly. As far as aftermarket engine management system help manuals go the FAST one is far better than most. They give you the information but the end user must know how to apply it.
 
I would not be connecting the battery 12V to the fuse block. The best place for that connection is directly at the battery. Put a test light on that circuit when you are cranking, I would bet that it dims and even might go out. If so that is most likely the source of your problem. Its not the XFI's fault if it is not seeing the correct inputs that it needs. Before you pass judgement on a product I would make sure you have everything connected properly. As far as aftermarket engine management system help manuals go the FAST one is far better than most. They give you the information but the end user must know how to apply it.

I know the XFI is a great product,just frustrated.

I will take it straight to the battery now for sure.

I bought this system from Joe Lubrant a while back with the understanding that he would be available for tech support,not his fault things did not work out that way,....but I have been trying to do this without bothering other vendors that do not owe me any kind of service.

Cal thankfully helped me out by sending me a startup program,I have been doing the best i can with it.

There is just so much to pay attention to all at once,kind of intimidating for me.
 
Thanks a bunch to everybody who has responded.

I don't know what I would do without the support of folks like all of you.Thats what makes this board,and the turbobuick community great.
 
What was the problem Patrick?



John Martin

Well John,I am not sure yet.I think I need to wire the old ECM memory wire staight to the battery.I think it may be going low while cranking sometimes.

I have an issue where the car starts then dies immediately,still trying to hash things out.

I have had a few different programs sent to me to try and have'nt yet had the chance to try them.

My first problem was my crank trigger cable pin connectors were loose fitting on the pins,got that fixed.Now just trying to make sure it stops losing sync while cranking.

I also think the MAP sensor included with my ECM is a bad one,it reads no change whatsoever while cranking or otherwise,always 100 KPa.

I think maybe all will be well after I fix some wiring and maybe try another 3 bar map.I have had some awesome help from these guys through PM's and e-mail.

BTW John,are you going to make it to Waco? I plan on going,but it looks like I will be running the GTO for now.
 
I have an issue where the car starts then dies immediately,still trying to hash things out.

Hopefully that is just a tuning issue. I had a problem with a box several mos back that did the same thing, it bench tested fine but would not run longer than a second or two. It turned out to be a bad mother board, FAST replaced it as a last resort and that took care of it.I'm not saying that is your problem but it is something to keep in mind, that was the ONLY one we ever had with that issue, not bad considering the amount we have sold.
 
Hopefully that is just a tuning issue. I had a problem with a box several mos back that did the same thing, it bench tested fine but would not run longer than a second or two. It turned out to be a bad mother board, FAST replaced it as a last resort and that took care of it.I'm not saying that is your problem but it is something to keep in mind, that was the ONLY one we ever had with that issue, not bad considering the amount we have sold.


Well I wouldn't rule it out as a possibility,I bought the unit a little over a year ago and am just getting around to installing it.

I will keep that in mind though.

Is FAST very difficult to deal with on matters like that? What was the turnaround like?
 
Well I wouldn't rule it out as a possibility,I bought the unit a little over a year ago and am just getting around to installing it.

I will keep that in mind though.

Is FAST very difficult to deal with on matters like that? What was the turnaround like?

I overnighted it to them twice and they returned the favor. They replaced the board the 3rd time I sent it and once again they overnighted it back and then reimbursed me for the shipping on the other 2 times.
 
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