I'm knocking on 11s, 12.09

[OhioC5]

Mines gone 12.1 @110, you can do it.

 

[Dwilc47]

Mines gone 12.1 @110, you can do it.

awesome job! i have hopes for mine. going to make it out this friday since i got rained out last friday. Hopefully i can runn faster than my last at 12.7. Hopefully next summer retune change out spark plugs and wires, get my line lock and longer shoes for the drums ill be going a bit faster. But im still happy with my 12.7

 

[Dwilc47]

Went to the track on Friday this is what it produced. Slowly getting there. Looking to get a set of stock headers to see if this will help my 60ft over the Hooker super comp headers I got on there right now. I think well what I read know its killing my spool up. Also adding line lock and rear brake kit.

 

[Joeld]

Nice run, what was the 60? The second number on the slip?
Joel

 

[TexasT]

Looks like the top number is reaction time, second #60', then maybe a 330., an 1/8th and its mph, 1000' and the quarter with mph

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[Dwilc47]

2.001 60ft shitty I know haha but all my runs this summer were that time. Closest I got to under 2.00 was 1.99 haha

Nice run, what was the 60? The second number on the slip?
Joel

 

[Joeld]

You took the words out of my mouth dwilc47 (polite way was asking which line on the sheet was which). 12.66 with a 2.0, yikees, imagine if you hook up out of the hole???
You are running a quick car my friend! How many pounds of boost did you leave at?
Joel

 

[clayton j]

the brakes are holding you back trust me!i just went through this with stock brakes,turned rotors and new pads,shoes.best 60 ft was 2.0-2.2 and only holding 3 or 4 pounds on the line before rolling. a friend told me to get the s-10 cylinders and longer shoes for rear,the braided lines for the front and rear brakes.then i found on cl.a set of front slotted rotors and pads.was told they grip way better than stock.so i bought them, put them on and drove 100 miles to the track and held 7 pounds on the line (could even had held more )but i choked and let it go thinking somethings wrong here but it ripped a 1.66 60 ft .also if your running at night try to go during the day to your local track when they are spraying it really good. at night it seems to bring moisture out on the track after dark. just 2 cents

 

[Dwilc47]

You took the words out of my mouth dwilc47 (polite way was asking which line on the sheet was which). 12.66 with a 2.0, yikees, imagine if you hook up out of the hole???
You are running a quick car my friend! How many pounds of boost did you leave at?
Joel

Thanks appreciate it. When I look at the boost gauge it's a little under 5 pounds. Anything after that it either pushes through the lights or starts to burn out. The last run of the night I saw 8 pounds but it didn't hook up at all because I was on the verge of a burn out. Everyone says it's quick but my urge to go faster is killing me haha. As long as I can have fun beat some newer cars at the track I'm still happy.

 

[Dwilc47]

the brakes are holding you back trust me!i just went through this with stock brakes,turned rotors and new pads,shoes.best 60 ft was 2.0-2.2 and only holding 3 or 4 pounds on the line before rolling. a friend told me to get the s-10 cylinders and longer shoes for rear,the braided lines for the front and rear brakes.then i found on cl.a set of front slotted rotors and pads.was told they grip way better than stock.so i bought them, put them on and drove 100 miles to the track and held 7 pounds on the line (could even had held more )but i choked and let it go thinking somethings wrong here but it ripped a 1.66 60 ft .also if your running at night try to go during the day to your local track when they are spraying it really good. at night it seems to bring moisture out on the track after dark. just 2 cents

Can't agree with you more. Plan for next year is the rear kit from gbodyparts. And another tune from a local guy. I have hopes after what you said

 

[Pronto]

S10 wheel cylinders and the 2 long shoes go a long way for holding boost at the line. They are a challenge to do. The wheel cyl stays put with a silly clamp that needs a cheap tool to remove. It's a pain in the ass. The bleeder is in a recessed spot. I found tool to get at the bleeder, don't know how to get at them without it.

 

[TexasT]

Deep 1/4 drive socket? That's what I use.

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[Pronto]

The one I had was too thick. Maybe it was just the brand I have.

 

[TexasT]

I think I used a craftsman(could be a snappy or matco) piece. After I break it loose I am able to pit the tube through the socket and twist it open and shut by hand while bleeding.

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[Pronto]

Don't know why they made the damn bleeders recessed.

 

[Dwilc47]

i just picked up a power plate and stock headers and cross over pipe from fellow members on here. Can Any one suggest what type of gaskets to us on the headers?

 

[Dwilc47]

Alright ran for the first time this season after adding the power plate.
Best run of the night was a 12.8 and 111mph. Still at a 2.0 60ft but picked up 23 mph from the 1/8. Granted tonight was 77 degrees and humid and not like in October when it was like 60. Still running 93and alky gain knob set at 6 boost still at 26#

At the top end of the track on the narrow band I was getting 820ish in third gear.
I did some tuning in the chip (TT 5.7) tonight and trimmed overall fuel in parameter 1 from 134 to 128. I did hit some knock mid way down the track 1.2kr but it went away as fast as it came up and that was only once. I do plan on trimming more fuel and adjusting the alky gain knob to compensate. At the top end of the track after some tuning the narrow band was reading closer to 805-810.

Now off the line I was still running 2.0 60fts. I can usually leave around 5# the car jumps can't really explain it but seems to bog in boost and after 60ft picks up the boost and hits like hell. I was ready trimming fuel in parameter 2 1at gear fuel will help spool up and quicker launch. I only had time to trim this once and I trimmed it from 128 to 125. I hot lapped it and ran a 2.2 60ft. I do think it's the hooker headers holding me back. I do have stock ones waiting to put them on. How much is to much fuel trimming. Till I see knock in first?

I did throw code 42 came and went a couple times. I believe it just my plug wires cause there old and the inside of the boots to the coilpack are rusty. Going to advanced auto to get some new ones tomorrow to see if this helps.

Things I have and wait on to arrive to put on.
Stock headers
Comp 980 valve springs
AEM Wideband
Gbody parts rear brake upgrade kit
Fuel pressure gauge

 

[we4Mateo]

...I do plan on trimming more fuel and adjusting the alky gain knob to compensate. At the top end of the track after some tuning the narrow band was reading closer to 805-810....

Don't compensate fuel with alky. Run as much alky as you need to suppress knock, no more, than adjust your air/fuel ratio with the chip like you are doing. Tune one at a time. If you are kr free, start adding timing until you tickle kr then back it off a degree. After that, then start leaning it out a bit. If you see kr, bump the alky just a little on the gain knob; a little goes a long way, but don't add alky just because you are taking fuel away. It'll pick up more if you leave the alky set where it needs to be and not use it as a means to control AFR.

...I only had time to trim this once and I trimmed it from 128 to 125. I hot lapped it and ran a 2.2 60ft. I do think it's the hooker headers holding me back. I do have stock ones waiting to put them on. How much is to much fuel trimming. Till I see knock in first?

I did throw code 42 came and went a couple times. I believe it just my plug wires cause there old and the inside of the boots to the coilpack are rusty. Going to advanced auto to get some new ones tomorrow to see if this helps.

Couple things: Every car is different so no easy answer to how much is too much fuel to trim in first or any gear; depends on injectors, fuel pressure, etc. Just trim it until your car stops picking up in the 60' or shows a little kr. Secondly, stop racing the car with known bad equipment. You're just asking to push a HG. But maybe you need to change a few to get tired of doing it. Making power like a V8 with two less cylinders and less cubes always means that things need to be that much more correct to keep one of these mills together compared to a SBC or something.

Excited to see you sort this out! Get rid of those headers. I've never run them, but my T/A stock replacements don't spool like a tight set of stockers, so I can only imagine how bad real headers are on that thing.

 

[fast86gn]

I do think it's the hooker headers holding me back. I do have stock ones waiting to put them on.

Things I have and wait on to arrive to put on.
Stock headers
Comp 980 valve springs
AEM Wideband
Gbody parts rear brake upgrade kit
Fuel pressure gauge

Nice mph and yes the Hookers are killing you! Stock headers are far better for your set up.

 

[CuzzinOlaf]

Your setup doesn't sound too far off from mine except for you're using alky and I'm on e85. You say you want low 12's now but then it'll be 11.5 and soon after it'll be 11.0 LOL. I know, I'm there now and just picked up some valve springs, a Precision 6267, and other goodies. I'm still thinking I want a better intercooler and tighter convertor, too.