I'm selling this car if I can't get it running right.

[Jim Ayres]

The car now starts and runs, drives after changing the harmonic balancer ( one of the blades was bent ) and readjusting the crank sensor and cam sensor. BUT the car has NO power and will hardly back out of the driveway.
I drove the car around a few blocks near the house, just in case, no power, you can floor it and the rpm's come up very slowly and the knock retard gague alarm goes off.
If it's not one thing it's another. This is the exact condition the car was in when I bought it from my son. On Direct Scan the maf readings don't look right ( 5-24 when in park revving the engine ) . I have yet to get a reading while driving the car and I hope I will see something that will tell me what's wrong.

Thanks guys,
Jim

 

[Mike Licht]

Jim, call me I have a couple ideas
Mike
586 790 4406

 

[Jim Ayres]

I checked the compression and found 80-90 on all cyl., pulled the timing cover and found the woodruf key on the cam gear sheared just at the front of the gear. Funny thing is that when I pulled the cover with #1 cyl. tdc, the dots were lined up on the gears. the idler bolt on the cam gear was loose enough to screw out by hand and after removing the cam sensor gear, etc. I found the sheared key. The set was a bit difficult to remove as the cam gear had turned on the cam some, now I'm wondering about valve to piston problems although the car was finally ideling and driving fine, just no power?
That just gives me more things to check out, but I'm sure this has been the basis or my problem all along.

Thanks guys,
Jim

 

[Mike Licht]

The low compression shows a retarded cam which makes sense. I doubt you will have a valve problem. Fix the key and recheck compression if it jumps up like I bet it will the valves are likely fine
Mike

 

[Jim Ayres]

A friend has a scope that I can check out the pistons and valves with, so I will definitely use that to rule out any internal damage.

Jim