Installing b body spindles. What are the optimum alignment specs?

GNVAIR

Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
My car is not set up for just drag racing. I also plan on competitive autocrossing and some road racing with my car club at Pocono and Limerock. I am curious to get some feed back from others as to what they have found to be the optimum all around best camber, caster and toe specs.
 
I was wondering about this, too. I'm going to try -1 degree of camber, 1/16" toe in and what ever the arms want for caster (probably between +2 or +4 degrees) and see how that works. My car won't be on the road for a few more weeks (head swap, motor maintenance) but I'll let you know how the alignment turns out.

Another interesting thing I found was I put on a set of B-body Tie rods and they are much beefier and seem to relocate the tie rod lower like the aftermarket "baertracker" kit vs. the stock G-body tie rods. You may want to consider these if you haven't already.
 
I used both. You have to use both and new sleeves. They are much bigger than stock. Application I asked for was 84 caprice classic wagon. $62 for all six pieces at the auto parts store.
 
Originally posted by GNVAIR
My car is not set up for just drag racing. I also plan on competitive autocrossing and some road racing with my car club at Pocono and Limerock. I am curious to get some feed back from others as to what they have found to be the optimum all around best camber, caster and toe specs.


Starting from scratch:
I had them set the L/F with as much caster as possible, using a reasonable looking number of shims (I think it's 4d), then had them set the R/F with 1/2d less caster.

Then set that camber at -1/2

Then toe at -1/16"

Mine's also been lowered about an 1", and the tire wear looks just right.
 
With GW arms: Caster L 3.1
R 3.7

Camber L 1.2
R -0.7


Toe L 1/16 Total 5/32
R 1/16
I got these settings from Doug at GW. I have a lot of shims in there, so when I replace springs I may have to reverse control shaft for more room. HTH.
 
Originally posted by Awesome T
With GW arms: Caster L 3.1
R 3.7

Camber L 1.2
R -0.7


Toe L 1/16 Total 5/32
R 1/16
I got these settings from Doug at GW. I have a lot of shims in there, so when I replace springs I may have to reverse control shaft for more room. HTH.

Why would he recommend positive 1.2 degrees of camber on one side and -.7 on the other side. That's like a set up for "turn left" circle track, not the street. just weird.
 
I went with GW arms with stk bushings. I reused the stock crossshaft:confused: This limited the caster adj. to a minimum of 7.8 degrees of caster:eek: I set the camber at -1.5 deg. ,it was also limited. It handles and stops like no other stk g-body, but the tires now rub with GTA sporting 225/50-16 tires.
 
Well, the car goes straight down the road, so no complaints. I will be changing springs (to # 5662's) to bring the front end up an inch, and will have to have it realigned. The set-up is for the "negative roll" technology that GW uses for the car. With the mods, they recommend removing the rear sway bar, which I did, and the car handles great. Part of the package is a GW front sway bar, and Koni shocks.
I am refitting the rear sway bar, and going to boxed upper and lower arms, as my 60 fts rot without the bar. I'm not so concerned with track times, but want car to hook.
Sborel, I have GTA rims on the front with 245/50/16's, and they rub too on serious dips at the outer tire edge. I am using the rear GTA's on the front, which have 4.9" bs versus fronts with 4.4" to try to pull the wheel under the fender more, but still it interferes. So, I just ordered Telstar wheels, 7x15, 5" bs to pull the wheel under still further. I think if I put the 5662 springs in the car it will stop the rub, but have always like the Telstars, so want to try them with that bs. But, springs first, then I'll see what's up. HTH.
 
Originally posted by Awesome T
Well, the car goes straight down the road, so no complaints.

Camber really won't effect tracking so sure it will go straight down the road. The difference between +1.5 degrees and negative .7 degrees shoul be visible with the naked eye. If you really had the car aligned this way, the to side of one tire will stick out, while the bottom side of the other tire will stick out.

There is no logical reason to have such variation unless you race circle track and only turn left. Turning right with this set-up will be noticeable different.
 
Well, back to the alignment shop to reset the camber on the left to -0.7 to match right. Thanks for the heads up, UNGN. I need to take the car to a shop with kowledgable people working there. I don't know squat about front-end stuff, and it shows. Anyone have a link to good reading so I can learn about these things and know what to lookout for next time? John.
 
Originally posted by GNVAIR
My car is not set up for just drag racing. I also plan on competitive autocrossing and some road racing with my car club at Pocono and Limerock. I am curious to get some feed back from others as to what they have found to be the optimum all around best camber, caster and toe specs.

Camber I would go -1
Caster? Get as much as you can 3-4*
Toe 1/16.

Then get a Pyrometer and start checking your tire temps to see how well the car likes that.

Another important issue here for auto x but more so for road courses is Tire Pressure. 34lbs in the front and 32 in the back. If it's a colder day you may bump those up a pound or two. Then right off the hot track check temps and pressures. You don't want the pressure to increase much past 42 pounds:eek:

The temps should be within 20 degrees or so across the face of the tire. Check the tire at each side and in the middle.

Have fun!
 
Springs - presently, stock replacement (#5606 ?, 425 lbs). The car is a little soft with them and the lower sidewall tires. I would prefer to go to #5660's, @ 639 lbs/inch, but TJThorson has written they lower car 1 ". #5662's, @ 709 lbs are supposed to raise front end 1" or so. My car sits a little low in front - looks great, but rubs. I think the solution would be either stiffer springs to stop compression, or raise front end a little, or run a wheel/tire pulled inboard. With the rear 16x8 GTA's, and 4.9" bs, there is 3.1" of rim towards outer fender. With 15x7 Centerlines, and 5" bs, there is only 2" of rim toward outer fender. So that, with a taller and narrower tire, should cure problem. Springs will probably cure it, too, but I also need a rim to mount 15" Drag Radials. HTH.
 
are you sure about the 62's raising the front end, according to the chart it claims it lowers it .5-1 inch. I'm thinking more towards the 60's.
that g body chart gives alot of info but with what engine combo?
 
Shag, I'm not certain. I re-read the posts about using 5660's, and some say they'll raise, some say level, and G-Body tech site says they'll lower. G-Body tech says 5606's lower most g-body cars .75 inch, but that is stock replacement for our cars. I'm going to wait a while until I can see my car next to some with different springs, and then decide. G-Body tech says 5642's are same rate as 5606, but raise body 1 ". That might work, but I think I'd like a stiffer spring up front. Take care.
 
While you may or may not agree with the the numbers, the differrent L/R # on caster & camber are to compensate for the crown in the road. Just take a tennis ball to the center of the lane & see which it rolls. Most road contractor do this for water drainage. So, when you off-set those # correctly, it will drive down the road straight as an arrow! Also, when changing these susp. parts, you may want to enlist someone to help and check the bump steer on your new set-up. Most circle track and road racers understand this one:cool:circle track
 
positive 1.5 degrees of CAMBER on one side is a little extreme for "crown of the road" offset. We aren't talking about 1960's caddillac's with marshmallows for bushings. I would think you could take care of crown of the road with a degree or so of caster and not have the car look like its set up for saturday night bomber stock class racing.
 
I don't get these altered settings to account for road crown. I have read these things for years but I drive on both sides of the crown all the time on divided roads. The left (passing) lane is on the wrong side of the crown and the car wants to drive into the ditch. I like my car symmetrical, it gently drifts down the crown regardless of the crown.
 
I am going to go get my car aligned on Saturday. I know that I want as much caster as possible. But the camber is what I am concerned about. Should it be -1/2 as Bruce recommended or -1 as RacerX recommended. I know grip is increased with negative camber, but tire wear also increases. I have the Global West UCAs with the Del A lum on the LF and bronze/brass on the passenger side. Will I encouter problems with the shafts they supplied? I know someone mentioned that they had a tremendous amount of shims on theirs to get it right. Should the shafts be swapped side to side or should I use the shafts from my stock UCAs?
 
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