Is 20-50 Oil too thick

[ZR1TR]

as the thread implies is this too thick of an oil for our engines. I used to be into pontiacs and ran valvoline racing 20-50 religiously. When I was in the autoparts store yesterday that's what I picked up and though I would give it a try. It noticely increase pressure throughout the rpm band. More pressure= more protection. Any one doing something similar

 

[FlyinGN]

I run the same oil in my GN. I did notice that with it it completly stopped the rear main leak that synethic gave me.. My pressure is HIGH but I let it warm up gently.. I may go with 15w-40 next time. My pressure is too high with 20w-50 I think..

 

[Ryan]

Are you both talking about running pure regular oil, rather than synthelic or blend?

 

[ZR1TR]

Fortunately I am one of the lucky one's who doesn't have a rear main leak. (I probably just cursed myself) anyway, you mention that you think you pressure might be too high. Is there any downside with high oil pressure, other than say leaks?

While we're on the subject of leaks, do you have one or two turbo oil return line gaskets. When I changed the turbo I though some idiot had put two on there so, I replaced it with just one. Ever since then it leaks pretty bad, I keep the oil checked so the only problem is that oil is a nuisance under the hood. Just thought you might know.

Thanks
Jonathan

 

[ZR1TR]

Ryan,

Yeah I'm just using plain old dino oil, nothing fancy. It's Valvoline Racing 20-50. It comes in a grey container.

 

[bruce]

Been running Valvoline Racing since 1971.
Works great. But, I'm only basing that opinion on 30+ years of using it. I usually stick with a straight weight thou.

 

[FlyinGN]

I have one gasket on th ereturn line and no leaks there.. I was thinkin of running straight 30 weight next time actually. I don't drive it in th ewinter only summer.

 

[Red Regal T]

Different engines are going to get different oil pressures according to what their clearances and wear, happen to be. Outside temperatures also have a lot to do with oil pressure. Some can run 10W30 and have good oil pressure, while other folks need 20W50. I happen to need 20W50 in my current engine. With summer 90 degree temperatures ready to appear, I might even throw a couple qts of Kendall 70W in with my oil change to help handle the extreme heat at hiway speeds. 2000 RPM in overdrive, dead hot, you should have 40 to 45 lbs. I like 65 to 70 at WOT. I don't think any more than that is necessary.

 

[Ryan]

What should oil press be at idle?

 

[Red Regal T]

In general, 15 to 20, dead hot. That's not when just your water is at operating temperature, but after you've made an expressway run for a few miles at 75 mph. Less is OK as long as pressure is in line at other RPMs. If I had 5 psi, I'd do something about it.

 

[FlyinGN]

with the 20w-50 I have 95 on cold (now) startup and 55-65 running in traffic and 35-40 lbs idle.. A lil too much

 

[Gary Wells]

One of the reasons that racing oil is not reccommended for the street is that virtually all racing oils, 20-50 Valvo included, have very little to no detergent to help keep the motor clean. I switched from 20-50 valvo racing oil to kendall standard weight oil to Mobil 1 or redline in about 86 or so, and I have been running mobil1 every since, generally 10w30. There again, I am not sure that a internally clean motor has any real benefit over one that is not internally clean, and different climates call for different weight motor oils.

 

[Red Regal T]

While what you say may be true, I have yet to see any hint of dirt or sludge in any of my engines, so I don't understand your point. I don't use synthetic. I'm sure it's OK if you want to chase leaks, and I don't buy the hype about it.

 

[azgn]

I would think any car running racing oil (as I do) would change the oil enough (like everytime to the track) that the lack of a high detergent would be a non issue....I'll take the extra protection any day

here in AZ straight 50 Valv racing is required in the summer

 

[the wrath]

does your gas mileage go down using 20 w 50 and will your turbo spool up slower with this stuff

 

[Ryan]

I have used engine flush in all my naturally asperated engines. I put some in my Regal and started it up. I looked at the can while it was running and it said not for use in turbo cars. I turned off the car and drain the oil. I wonder why you cant use engine flush?

 

[FlyinGN]

im playing with the fuel pressure and really don't drive the car enough to get a firm MPG difference but it seems like the turbo spools exactly same as when I was using synethic 10w-30..

Originally posted by the wrath
does your gas mileage go down using 20 w 50 and will your turbo spool up slower with this stuff

 

[Ormand]

Running oil heavier than you need will cost you a couple of horsepower, maybe as much as 5. The extra power required to turn the engine in the thick oil will end up as heat, adding to the load on the cooling system. Other than that, and the problem with cold cranking an engine full of molasses, no reason to run thinner oil. The synthetic is better, that's not even debatable, but if you're going to change it often, it's a question of whether it's worth the extra money. It lubes better, leaves less residue, won't gum up the turbo bearing as much, or the bottom of the pistons. (Those who think the reading on an oil temp gage are "max" readings may also believe in the tooth fairy) But it does cost more.

 

[Black Box]

I've been running Mobil 1 10W-30 since I got the car with 23K miles. It leaks a little bit at the RM, but my pressures are 60-70psi cold idle, 20 psi hot idle, 50 psi cruising at 2200RPM RPM hot, and about 65psi WOT, full boost, hot, in New England summer. Its only got 36K on it, but it does get excersized regularly.

Steve

 

[Ryan]

John

Is Kendell 70, engine oil? Saw some valvoline 60 today, after that just gear oil starting at about 90 range.

Thanks
Ryan
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