Is getting Exhaust Manifolds milled uncommon now?

[Antbankstwo3]

While I had my driver side header off to get welded, I thought it would be a good idea to get it milled. I'm new to AZ. Being that AZ is a very big classic car area, I didn't think it would be a problem finding a place. Boy was I wrong! I called tons of shops around the Phoenix & Glendale area & none do it. I contacted machine shops, resto shops, muffler shops, etc... They gave me reason & reason why & how expensive it is to do since there machines aren't set up for it. I find that very hard to believe & didn't think it would be such a problem. I ended up finding a guy that can through Nick Micale, but didn't think it would be so hard to do.

Does his sound right to anyone?

 

[Nascar83Fan]

If they came recommended by Nick, it'd be a safe bet to use that person. Alot of the people that you called probably didn't have alot of experience with milling headers, they also probably don't get alot of people wanting headers milled and didn't have the ability to do the work.

 

[Antbankstwo3]

I agree! Makes sense. At least I know where to go now.

 

[bison]

The truth is they aren't very easy to set up to cut on the ex port flange. Look at the item and look at how you would hold it to be machined. How much would one be willing to pay to resurface a set of almost 30 year old manifolds? I have a price in mind. It's probably about 2hrs worth of work to do them one at a time without a setup. The actual cutting is probably 3 minutes each. So basically you are paying for a couple hrs of setup


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[belsie]

Why not just flat file them and use a gasket, assuming they are not badly warped or ?

 

[DavidM]

Just talk to Nick and get the TA Performance Headers.

Set them on something perfectly flat and stick a feeler gauge in between to see how uneven they are.

Try and find someone with a large table belt sander. Last resort is putting the header on a vice and using a large file.

 

[bison]

Try and find someone with a large table belt sander. Last resort is putting the header on a vice and using a large file.

This won't get them anywhere near as flat as a fly cut. I'd rather file them than attempt this



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[bison]

Why not just flat file them and use a gasket, assuming they are not badly warped or ?

The gasket needs to be a solid piece of metal and the sealing will only be as good as the gaskets ability to conform to the clamping force. You aren't sealing a few psi here. 40-50psi is typical. Unevenly clamped gaskets won't seal too well.


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[captndave737]

My Poston headers were way out of whack and the muffler shop that did my 3 muffler setup ran them on a very large belt sander and did an excellent job, very flat and straight. I do use copper gaskets however.

 

[bison]

My Poston headers were way out of whack and the muffler shop that did my 3 muffler setup ran them on a very large belt sander and did an excellent job, very flat and straight. I do use copper gaskets however.

If they were flat why would you use a gasket?


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[Antbankstwo3]

When I got it welded I actually re-installed it. Then I still heard a small leak. Ended up being I didn't have the bottom to bolts toward the rear tight. By that time I took it back off & wanted to get it milled as a precaution. However, it all looked very straight still & I didn't see any exhaust lines on the flanges from leaking. I ended up calling Nick. He suggested a common place for leaks is the crossover if it's not tightened evenly. Also when I put it back on to get it really hot & re-torque them.

 

[Antbankstwo3]

I didn't use a gasket either. But I did use a lil' bit of copper RTV spray. Seems to be doing the job thus far. But we'll see when I actually get the car on the road. In a week or so

 

[captndave737]

I had a set! Im sure a mill would be the best but mine were off over 3/16" when i had them done. Checked with a straight edge they were fine but that was eyeballing them without a feeler gauge and I wanted to make sure I had a good seal.

I did have a dirt bike in the 70's that I draw filed the head on the coffee table to raise the compression and got it so flat I didn't use a gasket there though. I wonder why my first divorced me LOL. Or my second or 3rd! I keep things in the garage now and i'm keeping the 4th.

 

[Antbankstwo3]

I had a set! Im sure a mill would be the best but mine were off over 3/16". I wanted to make sure I had a good seal.

I did have a dirt bike in the 70's that I draw filed the head on the coffee table to raise the compression and got it so flat I didn't use a gasket there though. I wonder why my first divorced me LOL. Or my second or 3rd! I keep things in the garage now and i'm keeping the 4th.

Lol! Ur on a roll...! Slow down. Yes, the garage is safe. Or is it...?

 

[captndave737]

I think the garage is safe. She sends me there alot

 

[DavidM]

I didn't use a gasket either. But I did use a lil' bit of copper RTV spray. Seems to be doing the job thus far. But we'll see when I actually get the car on the road. In a week or so

I don't use any gaskets either. Try using the High Temp RTV silicone. I like that better than the spray.

 

[bison]

I don't use any gaskets either. Try using the High Temp RTV silicone. I like that better than the spray.

View attachment 227118

Agreed


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[Antbankstwo3]

I don't use any gaskets either. Try using the High Temp RTV silicone. I like that better than the spray.

View attachment 227118

Agreed


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LOL! I was debating on which one to get. Had them both in my hands yesterday, but heard great stuff about the spray. I already installed it with the spray. So I guess we'll see what happens. If not I'll try that next.

 

[bison]

LOL! I was debating on which one to get. Had them both in my hands yesterday, but heard great stuff about the spray. I already installed it with the spray. So I guess we'll see what happens. If not I'll try that next.

The only thing rtv will do is seal the small voids in the surface and prevent it from oxidation. It will not seal the pressure in the ex if the flanges aren't clamped evenly.


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[dvernst]

While I had my driver side header off to get welded, I thought it would be a good idea to get it milled. I'm new to AZ. Being that AZ is a very big classic car area, I didn't think it would be a problem finding a place. Boy was I wrong! I called tons of shops around the Phoenix & Glendale area & none do it. I contacted machine shops, resto shops, muffler shops, etc... They gave me reason & reason why & how expensive it is to do since there machines aren't set up for it. I find that very hard to believe & didn't think it would be such a problem. I ended up finding a guy that can through Nick Micale, but didn't think it would be so hard to do.

Does his sound right to anyone?

I had this exact same problem with my headers. When you ask people if they can do it they look at you like you're speaking Chinese. I ended up finding a machine shop that ports cylinder heads that did both headers for me for $40. I know he used a belt sander, and also said he pounded them straight. I bought header gaskets. And never used them, but I did use copper rtv. This was on a TTA , so after market headers are not available. My passenger side flange is about a 1/4" thick now. Grrr! Somebody machined them previously before I owned the car