Is it safe?

[MauDeuce50]

I aquired a 1987 t type about 7 months ago and the car has 124 000 miles on it. Is it safe to make some small modifications like valve springs, fuel pump, and an RJC air plate? Can I do these thing now and make a couple of track visits or is it best to rebuild the engine before any mods or track days? The car already has true duels with no cats and a 160 degree thermostat. Thanks for any input!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Those mods are, [except for the Power plate], pretty much what most folks find on their "spring cleaning" list. [Visit the vortex Buick site.]
I'd do them asap.
I'd also:
Add the necessary gauges, such as oil, boost, knock, and a Scanmaster. [If not already there.]
Fuel pump hot wire kit, change all fluids, filters, including the trans.
Flush the Powermaster, too. [Bet it's never been done.]

 

[Bescurred]

If it ain't broke....

You just want to make sure the car is healthy enough. No vac leaks, spring cleaning, trans...etc...

Those small mods are fine you won't hurt the car with those. But if a vaccumm line comes loose at 20 psi you could blow a headgasket.

 

[MauDeuce50]

Ok thanks, I am new to the TR world and just want to make sure I am doing everything right

 

[Nick Micale]

I aquired a 1987 t type about 7 months ago and the car has 124 000 miles on it. ............

One thing I would never do on an unknown GN with 124k miles is change valve springs?

IF the valve springs are weak enough to affect performance, you will know that by lack of RPM above 4000, and that would be a good safety valve until you know more about the car and its performance, especially at the track.

Since you know very little about the car, a more urgent concern would be fuel delivery, specifically the pump. Lack of fuel will cause issues.

New GN owners are usually impatient about going faster, and should be more concerned about learning about the car and establish some performance and budget goals, and not jump in and just bolt on parts.

 

[gnbeginer]

I have to agree with Nick, but don't ask how I figured that one out on my own.

 

[earlbrown]

The timing set needs to be replaced too. They only last a little over 20 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. While the timing cover is off, inspect the oil pump and do some efficiency mods. Drop the pan and replace the pickup with one that doesn't have a trap door (and full of timing gear teeths), then pull the drivers side header and weld up the crack between 3 and 5. And get a magnetic drain plug too.

Oh, and I'm in the camp of putting in valve springs. With an unopened engine you have the good cam blank, good lifters and they're worked hardened and proven.

Get a note book and run a compression test and a leak down test. That way, at a later date when the car starts goofing up (and it will) you'll have a baseline to start from.


Oh yeah, touch every hose under the hood... if one of them turns your finger black, replace it. If it doesn't turn your finger black, replace it. And the three hoses between the turbo, valve cover, and waste gate..... Replace them twice. and zip tie them. Then zip tie them again. If one of those three leak, you'll know what it sounds like to bounce a head gasket off the inner fender.


Add a set of injectors and matching chip to that list too. No reason to go smaller than 60's.

 

[MauDeuce50]

Ok thanks!