Is my MAF reading too high?

[VadersV6]

I have an extender chip, so I figured my MAF numbers that I see on the scanmaster should be doubled to know the actual reading. Is this right?
With the engine not even running, it reads 3. At idle, my MAf reading is 4, sometimes 5. Would this mean its actually reading 8-10 at idle? If this is the case, thats pretty high isnt it? When I'm crusing at 65 on the freeway, the MAf reading is in the mid 30's. Would this mean Im actually in the 60's-70's?
Just looking for more data in the way of improving mileage.
I have an LS1 MAF and a translator that Im not even sure is any good.

 

[TurboDave]

What are your idle BLM's? What is your MAF BASE switch set to?

 

[VadersV6]

Off of memory and out of order-
AF- 4 or 5 at idle
LV8- 28
IAT- 75
IAC-30
TPS-.44
Coolant- 170
INT-125-130?
BLM-120 at idle and 129 cruising. Ive had a bad rich idle condition since I installed the extender/MAF/Translator. Ive fixed/adjusted/replaced everything related and this is the best Ive ever gotten out of it. I used to have idle BLM's at 95 and cruise at 140 with BLM offset dropped down to 1. This is with FP at 42psi. There has always been a huge spread between idle and cruise BLM's. No vacuum leaks and Ive had to lower to fuel pressure to 34psi just to reduce the spread. I even added small filtered leaks (pneumatic valve exhaust filters) in the intake tube after the MAF to bring idle BLM's up in relation to cruise BLM's. After fixing a compressor flange gasket last weekend, I was able to bring my BLM offset to 4, but my FP is still 34 line off.
Cross counts cycle ok.
Idles at 725-750 in drive.
My Translator idle setting is 10% lean (once again, to reduce that huge BLM spread).
WOT is set to zero, no change.
Who knows..my MAf may not even be the right one. It was given to me when I bought the car, but it is a GM MAF, and it's about 3.5 inches at the flange, so I assume it's ok. Elements are clean.
Translator switch settings are on, on, off, off.
I didnt have the right connector to attach the translator to the factory harness, so I just pulled the connector off and inserted the pins into the factory plug and zip tied them up. The pins are in the slots tight and have a good connection. I used a thread somewhere on here to match up the wires properly. But maybe it was wrong. I do know I wired it up wrong the first time and it didnt work at all. If anyone knows the right wire color matching, I could go double check.
I dont get any WOT popping or anything. O2's are fine, like 800ish at wot.

 

[VadersV6]

Oh yeah...several months ago, I pulled out the LS1 MAF and translator and stuck the stock MAF in there as an experiment. Even with the extender, it ran fine. Idled smooth, WOT was fine, etc. I dont know how thats even possible, but it was.
In case your thinking either MAF is bad, the car will stall if I unplug either one.
Side note- Who's the deep thinker who throws 1 star on all my threads?

 

[VadersV6]

Anyone?

 

[Mike Licht]

If you are still runnning the stock MAF sensor that is the problem it is calibrated differently than the New units. Usually making a car run rich will not cause drivability problems so you may not see that.
Mike

 

[VadersV6]

I had the stock MAF in there for about a week, and that was about 5 months ago. Ive had the LS1 MAF in there the rest of the time. The fact that the car ran fine with the stock MAF and extender is just a clue for someone who knows whats up.

 

[Mike Licht]

Well I know whats up but I don't get the clue? The stock sensor will not produce the output needed to fully drive the translator. The fuel curve is also different and there will be rich and lean spots. Try the LS1 sensor without the translator . Now back to your problem You may have an LT1 3.5" unit which is calibrated differently. Try the 3" settings and see what happens. What is your chip number? If the car is running without a code the wiring is correct. We do have the proper adaptor that comes with the unit. Since you did not have it you may have bought it used, what software version do you have in the translator, it will be on the lid. You need 6.0 or beter for the new chips.
Mike

 

[VadersV6]

Well I know whats up but I don't get the clue? The stock sensor will not produce the output needed to fully drive the translator. The fuel curve is also different and there will be rich and lean spots. Try the LS1 sensor without the translator . Now back to your problem You may have an LT1 3.5" unit which is calibrated differently. Try the 3" settings and see what happens. What is your chip number? If the car is running without a code the wiring is correct. We do have the proper adaptor that comes with the unit. Since you did not have it you may have bought it used, what software version do you have in the translator, it will be on the lid. You need 6.0 or beter for the new chips.
Mike

LOL..sorry. Not implying that you dont know whats up. I never ran the stock sensor with the translator. Ive run the LS1 MAF with the translator together, and then for a short period, just as a test, I ran the stock MAF without the translator, with the extender.
I asked about the version of the translator I had about 7 months ago, and no one answered as usual. The version written on the top is 5.4.
Why would I need a 6.0 for it to work? Now that the car has sucked up every last dime I had, now I need a new translator. I wish the extender writeup on the site said you need a translator 6.0 or newer. I would have had that in mind when I bought this one used off of ebay. I would prefer to buy things new but the car literally drained all my cash.
I did switch the translator to 3" MAF and it idled like total crap. Ive never tried running the LS1 (or L whatever it is) MAF without the translator. How could the ECM even make sense out of the signal without the translator?
Looking on the site at the specs for the chip, my chip number is SL54A0 and the revision is F. I do notice the "5" says translator plus. I dont have a T+, just a regular one.
The guy I got the car from picked this MAF up in a junkyard, so who knows what it is. If I gave you the part # off the MAF would you be able to tell what it is I have?
So back to my original question, are the MAf readings on the scanmaster accurate, or do I have to double the number i see to know what it really is?
Thanks a ton Mike. I really appreciate any insight you can give me.

 

[Mike Licht]

You need to double the numbers. Call me ang give me your mailing address and I will send you an upgrade chip for your translator at no change. this will make it a 6.22. post the chip number and the numbers on the maf. Don't worry we will get this going for you
Mike

 

[TurboDave]

As usual, Mike comes through in a pinch. I keep trying to tell you folks that Full Throttle has some of the best customer service around!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[VadersV6]

You need to double the numbers. Call me ang give me your mailing address and I will send you an upgrade chip for your translator at no change. this will make it a 6.22. post the chip number and the numbers on the maf. Don't worry we will get this going for you
Mike

WOW! Thanks Mike!!!!!!!
This is the first good thing thats happened since I got this car.
Do you think this problem could have anything to do with the mileage issues Ive been battling forever? Ive exhausted just about every other low mileage possibility.
The numbers on the MAF are damn near impossible to read. It looks like they were made by hand with hot number punches that really over melted the plastic. The best I could get out of it was- 9?, 8, 1, (6 or 8), 2..then (5 or 3), 3, 1, 7 and then it looks like maybe a 1. Is there another place to find numbers, hopefully?
Chip is an extender, BSL54AOF6.
I have to run it at 10% lean at idle, 34lbs FP line off, leaks of unmetered air after the MAF, and BLM offset at 4 just to get the BLM's at 115 (double checked) at idle and 128 at cruise. With no BLM offset, 42lbs FP, in the beginning, it was dumping mass amounts of fuel and barely running. The translator was even at 10% lean at idle. I remember it was even running rich with the stock MAF/No Translator/with extender.
Would you be able to tell me what kind of timing this chip/translator would be giving me at cruise? I have no way of checking my timing. Ive wondered before if low, stuck timing was hurting mileage alot.
Another thing that has always concerned me, is that someone wrote the word "STRIP" on the chip cover of the computer. When I got this car, it had so many unknown components on it that it made getting things back to normal very, very hard. I have a feeling that this car used to be an 1/8 mile track bruiser with the 4.56's they had put in the rear and 3800 stall.
I always wondered if maybe this computer had been modified in some way, given it says "strip" on it.

 

[Mike Licht]

This will definitly make some changes. You will have to get rid of the "controlled leaks" and get the pressure back up. If this does not fix it I may want to see the chip. I will try to look up some of thos numbers and post back
Mike