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only carved on that one rod bearing but didnt even mess it up real bad .

you can see where the crack goes up on the journal it has some bearing material stuck to it

I have the high res fullsize shot of that I can email If someone wants it :)
 
hrrm, looks like it flexed a bit or something. You ping at all before it blew up? That's a nice one, wonder if it qualifies for the "OTC" club. Good excuse to move up to the Eagle billet crank :cool:
 
Originally posted by mygrain
I hate asking dumb questions, but whats the red stuff on the crank?

My guess is to aid in shedding oil to cut windage as much as possible. Paint can work just as good as the high $$ coatings but is a whole lot cheaper and less of a hassle to do.

Red,

Ill take a high res pic if youll email it to me. Thanks.
 
Originally posted by mygrain
I hate asking dumb questions, but whats the red stuff on the crank?

Its paint ..epoxy ..I think. But the real thing to notice is that the crank is has been deburred and smoothed ...that is an extremely time consuming process. Hopefully Red will reply back and tell ya just how much time and effort went into that crank.
 
What made you pul it? Was it knocking? Maybe a stupid question but a friend had an old 2.8 firebird and I diag'd a bad cyl, fluttering vac gauge, no knock, no valvetrain probs. I tore it down to find the crank BROKEN and the only thing keeping the 2 halves turning together was a "tooth" in the crack. Made no noise, but cranked weird and had decent compression on all cyls. Was one for the books!
 
I was wondering how long before the Red crank question popped up

well Myclone answered that one ;)

I'll get that pic out to you

Time is always the factor in the little details

It appears that deburring the cranks dont help keep them from cracking tho :( but as mentioned it sheds oil off of it rather nicely

as far as pulling it down /i did notice a slight noise but hard to say what it was because its not exactly a noise you hear everday

I just pulled one down last night that had a weird noise also ... found the thrust surface of the crank totally wiped out and thenisewas the counterweights of the crank hitting the main webs in the block

The Red crank was my 133 mph crank:(

oh and knock ..Im not like most that say of course not .. over the years of running that crank it seem way more than its share of knock
 

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Maybe a stupid question....do ya have to rebalance after a deburr?And paint it after it has been turned?
 
it would be avisable to balance after but on these motors the factory balance is not right on to start with so did I make it worse or better :confused:

that crank was still std/std and was not a balanced assembly just stock stuff


I just pulled down another 109 motor that has a cracked stock turbo crank (guess Im getting lucky that they didnt break)
this one is cracked in the rolled fillet area of #3 main journal

I blame that crack on the fact that the thrust surface went south and the crank walked forward enough that the counterweights on the crank was hitting the block.. my thoughts are the banging of the weights hitting the block caused the crack

this motor was all factory rotating assembly down to factory rings and bearings still in it just a cam and mild head port job and was a high 10 sec car ... what it'll run with the new combo :confused:
 
powder coating

I wonder if powder coating would work as wellas epoxy paint in an application like this.
 
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