You can type here any text you want

Is this a 10.?? sec setup?

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

TurboV6Olds

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
146
Hello guys, I have another question about my Turbo Olds. I have the following, stock 109 bored .030, new stroker crank, new K1 rods, new .030 JE pistons w/ total seal rings, ported / polished heads new SS valves (not sure what size but I'm sure big), 125# springs, ported intake, cometic gaskets, MSD wires, Walbro340 pump, hot wire kit, 60# injectors, roller cam and lifters (not sure the size of cam but it sounds good), stock rockers arms, 3" downpipe, t62 turbo(again not sure about the number for turbo), Alky injection, 3 core Alum radiator, Extreme Automatics stage 2 tranny, Art Carr 3200 stall, 255/60/15 drag radials, scanmaster, Innovate wideband, Cobalt boost gauge, 23 row stock location Alum intercooler, stock plenum and TB, Red top battery. I'm sure I have left some parts out but could anyone give me an idea about how fast this setup should go on a good tune and a OK tune. The car also has Metco adj. upper,and lower control arms. Any comments are appreciated and if someone sees something that would help please feel free to let me know.

Thanks again guys for your help and support,
Rick
 

Attachments

  • Buick 127.jpg
    Buick 127.jpg
    68.5 KB · Views: 731
  • Buick 131.jpg
    Buick 131.jpg
    56.6 KB · Views: 719
High to Mid 11s on an OK tune.
High tens on a good tune.
Takes time to get a pump gas and alky car right. Now, 10 gallons of C-16, Wideband and 25psi will get you there or very close alot faster.
 
.......... 125# springs, ported intake, cometic gaskets, MSD wires, Walbro340 pump, hot wire kit, 60# injectors, roller cam and lifters (not sure the size of cam but it sounds good), stock rockers arms, 3" downpipe, t62 turbo(again not sure about the number for turbo), Alky injection, 3 core Alum radiator, Extreme Automatics stage 2 tranny, Art Carr 3200 stall..............Rick

My opinion is the turbo is too small, not enough fuel pump, converter too tight, not enough valve spring pressure for RPM/HP and traction could be a problem.

Since you do not tell your location, altitude can also be a factor. :confused:

You may be able to crank up the boost for a 10 sec. slip, but a steady diet of 10's will be problematical, but I do not think you will get there with the current turbo/converter, certainly would not do it here in the desert. :)

By the way, nice car and work you have done.
 
What would be the most beneficial turbo and converter for the set up I have? I am going to work on the car this evening and will post pictures of turbo so maybe someone can tell me what size it is?
 
Billet 6765(900hp) or 6768(935hp) PTE turbo. If you wanted new ones. Used options will be all over the place. 66, 67, or 70mm, GTQ. HPQ,...etc. You have a stroker, whats the compression ratio? Keep the converter you have and try it like that. Datalogs will help you pick the new one, or at least get you real close. How fast do you really want to go?
 
What chip? Stock rockers don't like rpm, usual break shafts so be warned, Any 67 to 70 series turbo will work nicely..
 
What chip? Stock rockers don't like rpm, usual break shafts so be warned, Any 67 to 70 series turbo will work nicely..
TT Chip

Billet 6765(900hp) or 6768(935hp) PTE turbo. If you wanted new ones. Used options will be all over the place. 66, 67, or 70mm, GTQ. HPQ,...etc. You have a stroker, whats the compression ratio? Keep the converter you have and try it like that. Datalogs will help you pick the new one, or at least get you real close. How fast do you really want to go?

Like to go as fast as I can with what I have without hurting anything. Not sure of the compression the engine is being rebuilt with the bottom end stuff I listed. I can find out when I talk to my machine guy. I had to rebuild because of blown head gasket (water and RUST) that ruined the bottom end.
 
What would be the most beneficial turbo and converter for the set up I have?........

For the turbo, like what has been posted, a 66 and up will get you there. We have used the TE-45A which is a 66 wheel, and works good into the 10's and is great on the street.

Speaking of the street, a 10 sec. turbo Buick is more of a race car than street, but can be very drivable on the street. For daily driving, not so much.

I say this because you need a converter about 36-3800 stall for good strip performance, and it will do fine on the street. This is NOT a guess as we have done a few builds like this! :)

Again, I do want to mention, even high 10's should have a better fuel system than just one aftermarket pump, 2 in-tank pumps will work well into the high 9's.
 
I don't think I have the turbo I mentioned. Attached are pictures of the turbo. It appears to be a 60 and I was told it had a 52 wheel does that sound correct?
 

Attachments

  • 0704002101a.jpg
    0704002101a.jpg
    23.3 KB · Views: 572
  • 0704002102.jpg
    0704002102.jpg
    35.2 KB · Views: 553
  • 0704002100.jpg
    0704002100.jpg
    37.1 KB · Views: 564
  • 0704002100a.jpg
    0704002100a.jpg
    28 KB · Views: 566
Hey Rick,
Isnt that the turbo you got from steve? I tohught he said it was a TA51 ,I have been looking in to getting a diffrent turbo and he told me when your car was at his place you were thinking about not using it and that it was a TA51 or a PT54 its been a while but Im sure he said it was one of the 50 series turbos.
 
For the turbo, like what has been posted, a 66 and up will get you there. We have used the TE-45A which is a 66 wheel, and works good into the 10's and is great on the street.

Speaking of the street, a 10 sec. turbo Buick is more of a race car than street, but can be very drivable on the street. For daily driving, not so much.

I say this because you need a converter about 36-3800 stall for good strip performance, and it will do fine on the street. This is NOT a guess as we have done a few builds like this! :)

Again, I do want to mention, even high 10's should have a better fuel system than just one aftermarket pump, 2 in-tank pumps will work well into the high 9's.

Will the stock fuel line accomodate two Walbro 340 pumps with the 5/16 return line? If not what size line should it be and does it need to go all the way to the fuel rail or can it be changed where the flex hose is on the fuel line? I seen the kit at Racetronix for the dual setup.

Thanks, Rick
 
IMO,I agree with the guys on the turbo size.A 66 and up should get you in the 10's if everything else is there and tuned right!I went 10.95 on my 6765 billet from precision, on a 87 degree day,with stock bottom end:eek:!But I don't prefer doing that,thats why i only turned the boost up to 22 lbs when I've been told that turbo likes 25-30 lbs before it really starts working!!All my passes were on stock original suspension with air bags,couldn't even use the trans brake the car spun to the eighth using it!! Check out my signature for my previous and current set up!Just my 2 cents though!
 
I went 10s with less then you. 10.90 @121 with a pt61 stock unopened motor w/ c10 28lbs 27 deg timing single walbro 340, fmic 3"dp.
I'd get your current setup figured out before you start spending your bucks on more parts, take your time do some dyno tuning and tune and tune.
 
IMO,I agree with the guys on the turbo size.A 66 and up should get you in the 10's if everything else is there and tuned right!I went 10.95 on my 6765 billet from precision, on a 87 degree day,with stock bottom end:eek:!But I don't prefer doing that,thats why i only turned the boost up to 22 lbs when I've been told that turbo likes 25-30 lbs before it really starts working!!All my passes were on stock original suspension with air bags,couldn't even use the trans brake the car spun to the eighth using it!! Check out my signature for my previous and current set up!Just my 2 cents though!

I went 10s with less then you. 10.90 @121 with a pt61 stock unopened motor w/ c10 28lbs 27 deg timing single walbro 340, fmic 3"dp.
I'd get your current setup figured out before you start spending your bucks on more parts, take your time do some dyno tuning and tune and tune.

Thanks guys for the info.
 
Well i'm not gonna push my bottom end,watched a friend break the back two cylinders off the motor and destroy a fresh built trans because the stock mains didn't hold up!!Got another motor goin to make it strong so i can really hammer on it!Besides,i went 11.39@119 with a bad Stock trans and convertor,Te44 Turbo,stock intercooler, and 23 lbs boost!Waiting for cooler weather,should be able to get a mid 10 pass with it if the bottom end holds up!Also my 10 sec passes were first and only time out with the new combo!!
 
Hey Rick ,
To ansewr your fuel line question there are guys runing dubble pumpers with the stock return line if your running a hobs switch and turn the pump on at say 10 psi you will be ok with the stock lines. But if your running both pumps at lower boost or all the time then you may have a problem with to much fuel and you wont be able to get the pressure down low enough at IDL or easy driving. When I was looking at upgrading my fuel system most guys sugested using the supply line as my return and running a new supply line. From what I understand about the fuel sytem besides the pumps you have to bottle necks to worry about first and the one that causes the most trouble is the return line size. 2nd is the stock fuel rail supply side. There are 2 ways to fix the fuel rail trouble one the expencive way is buy champion fuel rails. your 2nd option is cut the origanl feed fitting off and weld a -10 fitting in its place. I think you said your fuel railes have been powder coated so you may be better off selling your set to some one wanting a nice set of stock powder coated ones if your going to do any thing at the railes. then just run braided stainless to the hard lines on the frame.
 
Thanks for the info. I will look into that and see which direction I want to go. By the way just bought Don's 84 GN today.
 
Back
Top