Is this what's holding me back!?!?!

[Cakes]

I just installed a Big Mouth Cold Air kit in place of my 14"K&N on the MAF in hopes of upping my MAF readings from 180 to the right 255 region. The car does seem to perform better(probably because of the cooler air). It still does not go past 180 gps under WOT situations. I am very confident my combo would be able to peg the 255 without much trouble. I know I am in need of new valve springs(as evident from my 100 MPH trap speed) but I dont think this would contribute to the MAF not reading up to the right amount. Is it time for me to look for a 3' LT1 MAF and translator and get this thing tuned right? I personally think that in stock trim I should be able to click off some low 13 second times at around 103 or so but I dont think I can get there if the MAF(and valve sprigns) isnt reading correctly. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for your time!

 

[JToups386]

With all the pieces you have listed in your sig, you should be running considerably better! You have enough stuff to go low 12's on soft tires. Your mph is a little low, but not too far off for the ET you show. I'm not sure why you cannot peg the 255 reading though. I agree it is a problem, but I don't think it's what is holding you back, to the degree you've reported. Can you give any more info? List your entire timeslip numbers, ie, 60', 1/8, 1000', and mph on all of those.
You are correct though, in saying that there is alot more left in your setup.

 

[Cakes]

Timeslip

Here is my timeslip from the 13.496@100 mph run...

60'...2.096
330'...5.651
1/8...8.652
mph...82.35
1000'...11.266
1/4...13.496
mph...100.32

The tranny did shift into overdrive. I originally had it in drive and then I had my helmet strap un hooked so they made me back away from the starting line and when I went to go forward again I just put it into OD instead of Drive. The First run of that night was done in drive except I ran 18 lbs of boost instead of 17 like I did in the second run (second run is 13.496) Here is the timeslip for teh first run.

60'...2.229
330'...5.866
1/8...8.906
mph...81.36
1000'...11.549
1/4...13.789
mph...100.25

Ets are a few tenths different but MPH is nearly identical. Can this tell you something? Thanks again!

 

[TurboDave]

I'd worry a lot about trying to get those MAF readings up during WOT!!! You're basically reading just over 30% lower than you should even for a mild combo. Since the MAF is a key part in the equation during WOT fuel delivery (KEY PART), then it could be argued that 30% reduced reading is going to have A HUGE AFFECT.

What MAF you running? Original? Remanufactured?

 

[brian]

If you have a friend with another T-R try their MAF sensor. Yours may be bad. A buddy of mine had what sounds like the same problem. A new MAF solved his issues.
Brian

 

[Cakes]

I am running a stock style remanufactured unit from Kirbans(I found the warranty info in the console). I am at school now so it is hard trying to get a MAF from someone to try. And even if I do I still would have to go get one if it is the problem. I think I am going to keep my eye open for a LT1 MAF since I hear such great reviews about it and how they make the car run much better. I know I have much more left in the combo in street trim and I want it running its best before I do anymore major mods (i.e. intercooler or bigger neck, alchy, etc, etc...) Thanks for all your help and any more opinions would be greatly appreciated. Just as a side question would it be possible for me to run a 12.xx in street trim if I could get everything tuned perfectly? Thanks!

 

[forcefed3.8's]

It is the big mouth air intake system. The reducer cone 3.5" to 3" that goes to the MAS isn't long enough. Did the MAS max out with just a cone?

 

[Cakes]

Forcefed3.8's, I dont quite understand what you mean by the reducer cone not being long enough but anyways it did not peg the MAF even with teh 14"K&N attacahed directly to the MAF.

 

[Donald Smith]

Agawam,MA. I think this is the town where Jack Cotton is located. If so he can fix you up.

 

[Cakes]

I live 5 minutes from Jack but unfortunately I am at school and I dont have any way of getting to him. I am looking for a cheap used 3" LT1 MAF for my car. I think I need it!

 

[JToups386]

Originally posted by TurboDave
I'd worry a lot about trying to get those MAF readings up during WOT!!! You're basically reading just over 30% lower than you should even for a mild combo. Since the MAF is a key part in the equation during WOT fuel delivery (KEY PART), then it could be argued that 30% reduced reading is going to have A HUGE AFFECT.

What MAF you running? Original? Remanufactured?

Good point from TurboDave here.
I would also note, your ET is being killed in your 60' times. A general rule of thumb is; a tenth off your 60' is worth nearly 2 tenths off your 1/4 time. If you could drop your 60' times down into the mid to high1.7's, you'd see a 12 second timeslip.
Your high ET is certainly an effect of not pegging the MAF too, but you seem to have a traction issue as well. In otherwords, solve the MAF problem, and then re-test. If ET drops, and mph goes up, then bingo! However, looking at your sig, regular BFG radials are not going to get you there. Drag radials might. If money is an issue, (which I assume it is with you being a student), then there are other tire options too. When I bought my first TR in college, I couldn't afford tires either, but I would find guys who run in oval dirt track racing, and buy their used McCreary G60's. Many folks said they wouldn't leave hard, but I used to cut 1.71 60's with 'em, and I generally bought the pair for $40. It's just something to consider, once you've lined out the rest.

 

[TurboDave]

Originally posted by Cakes
I live 5 minutes from Jack but unfortunately I am at school and I dont have any way of getting to him. I am looking for a cheap used 3" LT1 MAF for my car. I think I need it!

Ya can't just buy a cheap LT1 MAF and throw it on there. You've also got to have the Translator box so the Buick electronics can run it.

What you've got is just another crumby remanufactured MAF that isn't living up to expectations (as most can't/wont do).
Until you can get the coin together for a Translator setup, you're pretty much stuck with trying to find a better remanufactured piece.

BUT, yes LT1 MAF's can be found pretty reasonable once you've got the Translator "nailed down" and that will solve your MAF problems.

Then you'll have to go after traction!! Your 60' times indicate NO traction, and your ET's suffer because of that.

 

[Evans Ward]

Cakes,

In the interim until you save up enuff $$ for the LT-1 MAF/ Trans + set up, you could purchase a reman A-1 Cardone stock style MAF from Advance for about $90 or so. Less $$ with your core trade in. I bought one as a spare and it will spec about 249 GPS @ WOT. Plug is on side instead of bottom as it isn't totally correct but it will function fine. Looks almost identical to stock MAF. Just wanted to give you another option to consider. You do have a scantool to check out the MAF at idle and WOT right?

 

[Cakes]

Evans Ward, yes I do have a scan tool to scan my AF at WOT. I dont really mind having the plug terminal in parallel to the housing since the sensor I have now is exactly like that. I would rather spend the money on the translator setup but unfortunately I only would be able to get the regular translator and not T+ but I am not very interested in the T+ since I dont race very often and its just a street car.

 

[Evans Ward]

I should have read your sig and saw that you have a SM! My bad. Hope you get that all worked out. Good luck and have a good one!

 

[TR Custom Parts]

forcefed3.8's - Please don't blame the Big Mouth cold air kit for the low MAF readings. Sounds like a problem with the sensor itself to me especially since it is a remanufactured one. When I was running the stock sensor, I never had any trouble pegging it. BTW the reducer goes from 4" down to either 3.5" for the LS1 MAF or to 3" for the Buick or LT1 sensor.

Cakes - Sounds like you have a good combo for low 12's if you can get some traction.

 

[JToups386]

I too will vouch for the Cardone reman unit. I've used them on two out of three of my TR's, and have pegged a full 255 (per Direct Scan software) with both of them. They are merely original stock cores that have new electronics in them. I often promote Cardone products by word of mouth, simply because I've had very good success with them over the years, and have had the opportunity to talk with a couple of their VP's about their product standards through my work with the aftermarket industry. If you buy one and it's bad, they have a warranty that will replace it. Therefore I also suggest spending the $85 to $95 on one of these units.