At the risk of devolving the thread into another oil holy war, there is no "best" oil. Which is best depends on your application and how you're using it.
But there are a lot of "good enough" oils, and almost everything in a 5w30 or 10w30 you can buy at a mainline store is good enough for a stock engine with regular (3000 miles or once a year, whichever you hit first) oil changes.
ZDDP is a high pressure additive that only kicks in once the film has failed. Most modern oils swap that out for molybdenum because excessive ZDDP tends to acidify the oil and it starts attacking the parts it's supposed to protect. If you've ever seen a camshaft with pitted lobes that didn't spend time under water, that damage was likely from excessive ZDDP in the oil combined with a too-long change interval.
Start tweaking the valvetrain or racing and things can change radically. I run Motul 300V in mine, because I get stuff really hot and it maintains film strength well past 300 degrees while most other store bought synthetics (including Quaker State's retail products) give up around 250-260. It's also $35 per two liter can, so I pay heavily for the feature.
And to reinforce for the OP, your oil pressures appear fine. Keep using the 10w30 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter like the sticker says. If you're really curious, get an oil sample analyzed. that'll tell you way more than the oil gauge can tell you.
High volume oil pumps just waste horsepower and create additional heat. Unless you've built an engine with enlarged clearances, it's not necessary. if you're looking at adding a HV kit to an old engine to compensate for wear, it's a band-aid. You're better off dropping the pan, inspecting everything, and rolling in a fresh set of bearings assuming the crank's OK.