Kirbans ZDDP

I've been using Valvoline NSL Racing Oil for a long time now. It's available through NAPA, though they may have to order it. As stated, Valvoline makes several oils that they call "Racing Oil". Only the one marked "NSL" is the real deal.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0273.JPG
    IMG_0273.JPG
    40.4 KB · Views: 327
I found this on Valvoline's webpage:

http://www.valvoline.com/products/Specialty Synthetic Racing Oils.pdf

Looks like this oil has 12% Zn and P.

thats great oil--------but there are two reasons it's for "off road use only"---------it has a healthy dose of ZDDP and it has a rather low total base number (TBN) of less than 6------this means it is perfectly formulated for protecting a high performance engine under racing conditions-----BUT not so much a car that is street driven-------especially short trips that don't allow total warmup and stop and go driving, are not good with this type of oil-------that would even apply to driving your race car off and on the trailer-------TBN is an indicator of additive strength and how well it deals with neutralizing acids that always form as a result of combustion---------low TBN means the oil doesn't have lots of detergents and acid neutralizers that actually interfere with what an oil is primarialy designed to do: ie lubricate--------a racing oil should not be left in a car for extended periods and is intended that it would be changed after every racing event-------unneutralized acids left sitting in an engine for long periods of time are very destructive---------i am sure Valvoline suggests this for this oil if they have an application guide-------or they probably feel that racers should already know this------------the TBN of ZddPlus is over 20-------of course this gets diluted when you add it to your oil--------but all quality "street oil" will have a TBN higher than 6 to begin with----------just info for thought.....................RC
 
So, engines with flat tappet cams: the best bet is to run a 10W-30 synthetic SM rated (off the shelf) oil, AND a bottle of ZDDPlus? Street use.

I've been using the 10W-30 synthetic with no issues, although the engines had been broken in with the 'good old regular oil' (early 1990's oil). For a while now I keep feeling like I'm pushing my luck. Ever since they started removing zddp from the oil, I've felt like the cams are on borrowed time.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
turbo------i will apologize if there are any ZPlus dealers out there that are gouging anyone-------i know all of them and really don't believe thats happening---------thats never been the intent and if i found out it was happening i would do something about it IMMEDIATELY---------if you have evidence please let me know who is responsible

( I will probably have to take this to a PM as a few of the people here are unintelligible in their comments. A lack of education, I assume. They are not the ones to talk to this situation about anyway.

I bought the car new. It seems as the years go by the cars become more affordable, and the intelligence, age, class, of owners decreases each succeeding year. I've been a member on this site since '91. I now know why I have to leave for months at a time. The newer "Class" of SOME of the people has really nose-dived.)

--------you speak of a ploy????? what exactly does that mean???

(In my case it means...advertising one contrived price to MANEUVER or switch prices at the last minute on the customer, sort of like "bait and switch")

---------i think you might just have a problem keeping numbers straight

(Not at all, it's confirmed on the email they sent me. My numbers are dead-on.)

-------you say there is special "Porsche oil" with 12 to 15% Z&P-------thats about 100 times the normally recommended concentration

(sorry about the decimal point .12%)

--------sitting in my garage beside a lot of nice GN's is a beautiful white, classic 1978 Porsche 930 turbo carrera and no one has ever suggested that I use an oil like you describe.

(If you checked with one of the SCCA racing teams it would become evident...check with any team....not necessarily Porsche. But really, any semi-oil guru should be aware of the recommendations. )

----------perhaps you have confused the $150/6 pac the same way

(Not at all...I have it in the email..29.95 for ONE BOTTLE + prices for a 4 pack and you know the price for the 6).

if not i will promise you that i will refund to anyone every dollar they have been overcharged by any ZddPlus dealers------- have them scan the reciepts and e-mail them to me--------i will refund 100% of the overcharges promptly

(I assume you meant "receipts"...that's nice of you. I believe you would. However, I have not questioned your veracity in this matter, yet you have questioned mine. Insinuations that I am wrong or making something up. Why waist my time...it makes no sense. I have refrained from posting the site that details motor oils and their additives, as I don't know whether it would help your product. From what I've seen from a few posters, they would confuse the text and create a questioning situation that would be muddled with dumb and frustrating questions. I also assume that the people who have questions, can answer them by doing their own research. So, I won't post the site). ....................RC

As far as the vendor that sent me the email on the prices. I would rather tell you in a PM or email, if I did at all. It could create an embarrassing situation for the vendor. If I did send you the info...how is it a win win situation for me? Would you believe the copy of the email or would you side with the vendor? All they have to say is that they made 3 errors in pricing. I still wouldn't have my original purpose fullfilled, that being bottles of zddp sitting in the garage. Probably best for everyone to drop the issue. I would not want you to lose a relationship with one of your suppliers and possible personal friend, unless it SOMEHOW could lead to a positive outcome. If you can think of a positive outcome for everyone, if I copped out, let me know. Otherwise, I think it's best to drop the issue.

Have a good one!

Oh, and anyone else who has to drop in with their non-required negative opinions, regarding this post, is an azzclown. Just thought I'd take care of that in advance, so I don't have to deal with the buttmunches who always have to start with name-calling. LOL
 
So, engines with flat tappet cams: the best bet is to run a 10W-30 synthetic SM rated (off the shelf) oil, AND a bottle of ZDDPlus? Street use.

I've been using the 10W-30 synthetic with no issues, although the engines had been broken in with the 'good old regular oil' (early 1990's oil). For a while now I keep feeling like I'm pushing my luck. Ever since they started removing zddp from the oil, I've felt like the cams are on borrowed time.

RemoveBeforeFlight

personally i don't really believe that one could consider that our TR's require synthetic oil--------they weren't specified for it and millions of trouble free miles have been put on them in the last 20 years with standard dino oil with the standard ingredient zddp-------i don't have the papers at home this weekend but there is a rather extensive study that says the protective coating from zddp actually lasts for a fairly long time (i can give reference to it monday) when the oil is changed to a non zddp formulation--------its not clear how long this is but that would be tempered with how much zddp was actually in the replacement oils-------naturally if it showed small amounts, the depletion time would be extended over what it would be if there were none at all------they all show different amounts of zddp and there is obvious evidence that some brands are close to or at zero------i know that 10 months ago i found at least some zddp in mobil 1 10w-30 and two months ago i found none.............RC
 
Amsoil's AMO 10W40 has ZDDP in it. Here's a link : https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/amo.aspx

probably so but i can't seem to find the actual numbers posted------i have no reason to doubt it but i want to see the actual numbers-------i did a test on royal purple a few weeks ago and found it was very adequate-------but for its price it should be-------last week i sent an amzoil sample to be tested of their 10w-30 to see how much zddp is in it since 10w-30 is what is specified for our cars by GM....................RC
 
2 MPG is nothing short of incredible!!!!!! what am i missing here ????------i'm a pretty practical guy and always take the logical approach to most everything------help me with the figures------you normally get 16 MPG------that comes out to 625 gallons of fuel for 10K miles------going to 18MPG lowered your fuel consumption to 550 gallons------at $3 a gallon that saves you over $200 in gas--------that makes this oil worth over $ 40 a quart--------i can't help to believe that if this were really true that it would be an immediate federal mandate that all cars immediately use royal purple-------it would be the most effective national energy policy on the immediate horizon--------The guys at RP need to get this to congress-------they would make the president of royal purple the royal energy czarRC


Rich, first off I want to say thanx for the r&d on the ZDDP Plus and your tech feedback on the forums. Your collection is very impressive!
I am no spokesperson for RP but, I to have had good results.
As far as RP goes I to have noted better MPG when switching to RP.

FWIW- In my Infinity G35 Coupe, switched from the dealership oil to RP (same weight) and my MPG increased .8.
 
Hi again Rich,
Hope the PM cleared up the vendor issue. I'm finished there. And for those who are interested---"I didn't rat out the vendor."

I know that you had a question or 2 regarding the validity of my oil claims regarding the Porsche. I wouldn't make things up as there wouldn't be any point. Hope this helps with some of the other oil questions. I even use some mixtures, that we used with our SCCA racing team.

Oils: What motor oil should I use? Which oil is best for my Porsche or aircooled engine?
 
read the link-
first off zddp was distributed as a proper mix formulation for what our cars need
saying that...

the porshe guys info is outdated

stp and eos has no where near the volume of zddp to be adequate to what we need.
he hasnt tested true zddp in this thread
 
Hi again Rich,
Hope the PM cleared up the vendor issue. I'm finished there. And for those who are interested---"I didn't rat out the vendor."

I know that you had a question or 2 regarding the validity of my oil claims regarding the Porsche. I wouldn't make things up as there wouldn't be any point. Hope this helps with some of the other oil questions. I even use some mixtures, that we used with our SCCA racing team.

Oils: What motor oil should I use? Which oil is best for my Porsche or aircooled engine?

i really would have liked to have known who it is and i really would have seen that anyone that got ripped off would have gotten their money back-------at any rate i am familiar with the LN site-----a lot of the info is rather old especially since things are changing so rapidly in oil formulations these days------his values on zn and p in most of the oils listed is way off at the present time------my only problem with the LN site while it contains some good info it really seems to be an ad site for brad penn and swepco------while both may be good oils they are not easily found in most discount auto stores where competitive pricing offers good bargains---------by the way i just got a test back on amzoil 5w-30------batch # 10757 213-------zinc 0.11% phosp <0.01-------thats the technical equivalent of zero zddp------as we all know by now zinc alone is merely an anti corrosive and in order for it to be the genuine zddp molecule there has to be a defined ratio of zn to p.................RC
 
Mr. Clark,
You stated that changing your oil too soon is not good. I only put 400 to 800 miles (if I'm lucky) a year on my GN. I change the oil regardless off mileage every spring before I take it out for a spring run. Manufacture says 3000 miles or 3 months, so am I hurting the car by changing the oil not enough or to much? If you go by the mileage the molecules in the oil technically never have a chance to do its entire job of cleaning, etc. What do you recommend in my situation? My GN is super low mile.
 
Mr. Clark,
You stated that changing your oil too soon is not good. I only put 400 to 800 miles (if I'm lucky) a year on my GN. I change the oil regardless off mileage every spring before I take it out for a spring run. Manufacture says 3000 miles or 3 months, so am I hurting the car by changing the oil not enough or to much? If you go by the mileage the molecules in the oil technically never have a chance to do its entire job of cleaning, etc. What do you recommend in my situation? My GN is super low mile.
your application is what would be considered "severe" duty due to lack of use------yes it works both ways-------i would change the oil at least once a year just like you are doing---------a word of advice-------the old saying "start it once a month till it warms up" is bad advice-------sitting in your garage during winter and warming up till the temp gauge (if you have one) does not really get the engine oil up to temp or totally dry out the exhaust system--------its better to let it sit till spring when you actually drive it------and before you store it for winter make sure you take it out for a good drive (30-45 min minimum) and run it at highway speeds to get the oil and exhaust hot and totally dried out------i have several GN's, GNX's with less than 100 miles and i am very particular about this process-------i have seen cars with less than 500 miles with rusted out exhaust systems due to poor advice on this subject-------i have a GNX coming to me in a couple weeks with less than 1000 miles for a new exhaust for this very reason..............RC
 
he hasnt tested true zddp in this thread
That is true, testing just for Zn and P is not a measure of ZDDP. The analysis used for those comparisons was atomic mass spectroscopy which is what Blackstone normally does for about $25 a pop. That method does not measure compounds such as ZDDP.
I use Blackstome alot just for normal metal content and to determine the TBN of used oil.
86gngirl, you can also do this to determine the health of your old but not used so much oil. I try to keep oil in there until the TBN is around 6 or so, 10-12 is normal for new oil. I've found that some oils can keep their detergents active for way longer than a year, so I don't bother sometimes each year depending on milage, but it also depends on climate.
To test true ZDDP levels, the tests are going to run you a couple hundred bucks, using fourier transform, comparison sites are not using this method for the most part unless they have big funding.
 
your application is what would be considered "severe" duty due to lack of use------yes it works both ways-------i would change the oil at least once a year just like you are doing---------a word of advice-------the old saying "start it once a month till it warms up" is bad advice-------sitting in your garage during winter and warming up till the temp gauge (if you have one) does not really get the engine oil up to temp or totally dry out the exhaust system--------its better to let it sit till spring when you actually drive it------and before you store it for winter make sure you take it out for a good drive (30-45 min minimum) and run it at highway speeds to get the oil and exhaust hot and totally dried out------i have several GN's, GNX's with less than 100 miles and i am very particular about this process-------i have seen cars with less than 500 miles with rusted out exhaust systems due to poor advice on this subject-------i have a GNX coming to me in a couple weeks with less than 1000 miles for a new exhaust for this very reason..............RC

WOW! Thanks for the advise. I was under the impression you needed to start the car at least once a month and let it run for 30 minutes. Any other advise on do's and dont's for storing these cars for the winter. I do everything else you stated. I also have a battery tender on it now for storage, Cali car cover, and over kill on mice traps, Decon, and sticky traps all around, under the car and at every wheel. I bought the car with 1200 miles on it about 10 years ago and had to replace the exhaust the first year I had it. It now has 11,800 on it and I'd like to keep it in excelent condition. I think it was GNocide that laughed at me at a meet we had for driving the car with plastic on the seat.:biggrin: I got throw away plastic seat covers from a dealer, the ones they use when test driving a customers car, just to protect the seats from stuff. Thanks for the help.
 
that was me that laughed because prior to your car the only ones i know that are plastic covered and totally protected correctly are Richards fleet.
 
that was me that laughed because prior to your car the only ones i know that are plastic covered and totally protected correctly are Richards fleet.

LMAO. Was kinda funny though, the looks on all your faces when I got out and everyone looked in the car.:biggrin:
 
Top