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LC-1 install question

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SMS

Member
Joined
May 21, 2001
Messages
462
Hey Guys, Installed the LC-1 today, and from Innovates instructions, I have learned that the Bosch sensor they supply cannot tolerate more than 900°. My DP had the bung welded in when I bought the car, and it is about 10"-12" from the turbo exhaust housing. How hot do you figure it will be there? Instructions say a spacer is available, or fabricate a heat shield from a 4" x 4" sheet of copper. Any experiences with this sensor in roughly this location? I sure don't want to fry it before next weekend. Thanks.

Steve
 
Dont run the sensor there. The sensor will be to close to the turbo and the heat will kill the sensor quick. You want to locate the sensor near the end of the dp.
 
Upon reading closer, the sensor can handle up to 1300° egt's, and a sensor housing temp of 900°. That's a little more reasonable. A copper heat sink should do it, if not, I will relocate the bung.
 
They also specify 18" from the turbo. Boost231 is correct, I would not run it that close to the turbo unless you like purchasing O2 sensors frequently.
 
I've seen the heatsink thing on other cars though most run with the sensor down lower. I can only say that mine has been in the testpipe for over a year now and its still going good. Yours will work in the existing bung but time will only tell how long it will last.

Keep us posted.......;)
 
i run mine near the bottom of the dp on one car and on the other car i run it in the test pipe since i didnt want to drill a hole in my TH DP.
 
Well, I am just working with what I have for the moment. I really dont want to drill another hole in my THDP. We'll see what happens.
 
I drilled my hole down just before the dump pipe. I routed the wiring straight up plugged the sensor into the LC1 near the coil pack and thru the firewall hole. I've had a lot of trouble with the unit working fine at idle and driving around, but when I get into it the gauge goes to ---. They only way I can make the thing work again is to re-start the car. My question is do you guys think the unit is too close to the coil pack and is being interfered with by the plug wires?
How did you guys route your unit into the car.
 
I drilled my hole down just before the dump pipe. I routed the wiring straight up plugged the sensor into the LC1 near the coil pack and thru the firewall hole. I've had a lot of trouble with the unit working fine at idle and driving around, but when I get into it the gauge goes to ---. They only way I can make the thing work again is to re-start the car. My question is do you guys think the unit is too close to the coil pack and is being interfered with by the plug wires?
How did you guys route your unit into the car.
I didn't run any wires through the firewall except the analog output to my powerlogger. All grounds go to the same lug on the firewall which includes the copper ground strap to the block. For the switched 12v, I just tapped one of the brown wires on the fan relay. I mounted the controller on top of the a/c box with a piece of flat stock and wire ties, and utilized 2 unused holes with a couple screws. I don't know if the sensor cable is long enough to reach where you have it though.
 
I moved my O2 sensor to the DP about 8 inches from the turbo pointing to 3:00 if your facing the engine. I installed my LC1 sensor about 4 inches further down at 12:00. I talked to Innovate and was told the copper heat shrink really won't help much. I have not had any problems although if I had it to do over I would have installed the LC1 bung further down. My THDP is ceramic coated so I won't move it. I do plan on a 3.5 THDP in the future and will change it then.
 
I am caught in the same situation. My wide band is in my O2 sensor location. I have ran my car for almost 1 year with it there although it's driven rarely on the street. I was told that my wide band would last only 500 hrs unleaded and 50hrs leaded. I am going to move it to the DP but not too far away from the turbo. I am saying no more than 18". I have a EGT about 10" inches from the turbo. I am not using and LC-1 by the way.
 
i dont understand why people want to keep it so close to the turbo. it doesnt matter if you mount it 18" away from the tail pipe its going to read the same unless you have exhaust leaks.
 
i dont understand why people want to keep it so close to the turbo. it doesnt matter if you mount it 18" away from the tail pipe its going to read the same unless you have exhaust leaks.

Yes it will read the same! My question is response time. Remember this is not an LC-1. If the folks that designed my FMU wanted it further downstream then I would move it down there. I know it can be clipped to tailpipe if I wanted.
 
My Bosch 13246 wideband sensor has been vertically mounted about 11 o'clock just in front of the A/C accumulator on my car for 4 years now.

Part of the DIY kit.

The kid at the emissions station said it tracked the emissions dyno. wideband perfectly last winter.

Unleaded gas only with alky. in this car.
 
That were I plan to move mine :D. My wide band is starting to die on me again so now is a good time.
 
I just found out today for sure that my wideband needs to go over to the exhaust side of the turbo. I was told that the reason for moving over to the exhaust side, isn't not entirely because of temperature but pressure. Pressure can skew the signal from the sensor. My car would show errors because I would calibrate my wideband at atmosphering pressure, then the change in altitude along with my high exhaust pressures would skew my readings. I was also told a change will also occur if the weather changes the barometric pressure between calibration and use. Sensitivity to changes in pressure goes up the further you are away from Stoich the reading gets. If your reacher than stoich, then you will be even richer or vise versa. I really received an education today! I am definitely no expert but they managed to give the readers digest version so that I could understand. They gave me some math homework to go figure out. HTH
 
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