LC-1 Wideband install tips

[TR Custom Parts]

In the middle of doing a Powerlogger install as well as a new Scanmaster. (had the old 2.0 Scanmaster that has served faithfully for probably 7 years now, can't be updated to work with PL!)

Also picked up a LC-1 Innovate wideband to put in as well. Any tips on doing the install of the LC-1 while using the Powerlogger??? Looks like the main headache is getting the wire harness into the car. Is it OK to leave the actual sensor part UNDER the car? Any suggestions or tips greatly appreciated.

 

[Boost231]

depends if its a column shift or console. if its a console which it probley is what i did was run the 02 wire threw the shifter linkage hole under the console and then kept the lc-1 box under it. its very easy once you see it. now on the column shift cars you can leave the box under the car. i have run mine that way with no problem at all.

 

[ryan george]

a guy over on gnttype.com has a real good set of pics on his install on his website, tomsttype.com. drill a 3/4"-1" hole in the floorboard on the passenger side and run thru there. he's got his sensor up high on the pipe. i've got mine down low. with his, he has the lc-1 unit in the engine bay, i've got mine behind the glove box. i originally had it under the car, but when i had problems with the unit working and sent it in for repair/replacement, i decided to do it similar to his. there is hardly any wire that is outside of the car, and most everything is hidden.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

a guy over on gnttype.com has a real good set of pics on his install on his website, tomsttype.com. drill a 3/4"-1" hole in the floorboard on the passenger side and run thru there. he's got his sensor up high on the pipe. i've got mine down low. with his, he has the lc-1 unit in the engine bay, i've got mine behind the glove box. i originally had it under the car, but when i had problems with the unit working and sent it in for repair/replacement, i decided to do it similar to his. there is hardly any wire that is outside of the car, and most everything is hidden.

Got a link??

Nevermind, found it! Thanks. Here it is for others that might want the info. LC1 Sensor Install

 

[Boost231]

not a bad idea but i dont like drilling holes in my car

 

[TurboBuRick]

It's a good idea to put the controller inside the car. It is susceptible to heat damage from the motor and exhaust pipe.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

It's a good idea to put the controller inside the car. It is susceptible to heat damage from the motor and exhaust pipe.

I am leaning that way. Drilling holes doesn't scare me.:biggrin:

As far as the bung goes, think I am going to put it down at the bottom of the downpipe. With my aftermarket headers things are a bit tight up top. Also, anyone ever use one of these??
Retrotek - o2 Ready Exhaust Clamp

Don't feel like taking the downpipe off to have it welded.

 

[TurboBuRick]

I am leaning that way. Drilling holes doesn't scare me.:biggrin:

As far as the bung goes, think I am going to put it down at the bottom of the downpipe. With my aftermarket headers things are a bit tight up top. Also, anyone ever use one of these??
Retrotek - o2 Ready Exhaust Clamp

Don't feel like taking the downpipe off to have it welded.

Are you running a test pipe? If so, just pull that off and weld it in there. That clamp on bung would work too. Most muffler shops can put one in the end of the downpipe without removing.. Either way it will work.

 

[aquickv6]

shifter hole

I like that idea about using the shifter linkage hole for the O2 wire and leaving the box under the console. I don't want to drill new holes either, and it keeps the box inside. Thanks for posting.

 

[DCVING 6]

I had my bung put in the last bend of the downpipe before it hits the test pipe. I then ran the line over the trans and was able to fit the plug through the grommit that the trans linkage goes through. It is completely hidden under the counsel. MAKE SURE YOU CALIBRATE IT BEFORE YOU PUT THE COUNSEL BACK IN!!! Only make that mistake once. I think I have pics somewhere.

 

[wickedtt]

That sound good any pics?

 

[TurboDave]

Here's where mine ended up.

click to enlarge:



Just above the final bend. But mine is a PLX brand, and has a really long wire loom into the car and plugs into the controller.
I'm not a huge fan of the the way the LC1's have the controller only a foot or two from the sensor.
Both brands are great! Even though I use and like the PLX, I must add a the caviat that PLX customer service is the worst you'll run across. Furtunately they're so easy to install, you shouldn't need to deal with them.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

I'm not a huge fan of the the way the LC1's have the controller only a foot or two from the sensor.

Any reason why the harness can't be cut and an extension soldered in?? Would solve a lot of problems with where to mount.

 

[TurboDave]

Any reason why the harness can't be cut and an extension soldered in?? Would solve a lot of problems with where to mount.

That I'm not to sure about. Most of the systems out there use the same Bosch LMU4 sensor which has a certain length lead and a connector already in place.
Depending on the brand, that connector might plug directly into a controller (like LC1) or it might plug into a harness leading to a controller some distance away (like PLX).

Don't know what the affect of lengthening the sensor lead would be.

 

[Mike Licht]

The controler is fine under the car. Mine is right next to the heater box. The harness runs across the firewall and throught the big rubber grommet on the drivers side. It is pleanty long
Mike

 

[TurboDave]

I would think their controller is fairly impervious to most adverse conditions and seems well sealed. The only LC1 I installed had the bung up near the A/C box so laying the controller right on the passenger inner fender was easy.

 

[Pronto]

Mike, I have mine mounted to the right of the heater valve on the heater box. It gets warm there but not "hot". Is that loction OK? Any issues with the coils and module only a few inches away? I'm having an issue with the wb locking. It starts off working ok then after a few minutes it seems to lock on a number. I just installed the lc1 and I calibrated the O2 but I'm not confindant I'm doing it right. I will check the wires and try to calibrate it again. I'm not too impressed with that little calibration button. It's hard to push on. I may get a large easier to push momentary contact like that one shown in the tomstype link. If that doesn't solve the problem got any ideas on why it locks?

 

[Pronto]

Here's the location. The O2 is located about 1/2 way down the pipe angled toward the trans.

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[TR Custom Parts]

Here's the route I decided to take. Drilled hole in passenger floorboard towards the trans tunnel. The wideband unit will rest behind the glovebox, almost like that spot was meant for it. For wiring it up, have the analog terminal right above it on the HVAC unit and if you look closely you will see where I have the PAC box for the alky kit. Only wire outside the body will be the one running to the 02 sensor itself which will be on the bend right before it goes horizontal to the dump pipe. Obviously there will be a grommet in the hole and will seal it up with silicone.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Looks good Mark!