LENCO or GLIDE????

[Bigm257]

I am in the process of assembling a new Pro-stock GN. Motor 4.1 stage II twin turbo

1380 hp / 1140 lbs of torque.

Chassis- 2300lbs

What Tranny?????

LENCO or GLIDE???? IF a glide, from who????????




Thanks for your comments,

Mike

 

[6PacktoGo]

Originally posted by Bigm257
I am in the process of assembling a new Pro-stock GN. Motor 4.1 stage II twin turbo

1380 hp / 1140 lbs of torque.

Chassis- 2300lbs

What Tranny?????

LENCO or GLIDE???? IF a glide, from who????????




Thanks for your comments,

Mike

I'd run a PowerGlide. The company you want is ATI Racing Transmissions in Baltimore Maryland.

 

[Randy Greenoe]

In my opinion what has held up the best on Ron Lumans{Kenny Ds} old car is a Coan glide,with Dedenbar case.Numerous 7 sec. passes and 1.012 sixty foots.

 

[John Wilde]

I would have to say that is depends on what class you are running. If you get a good weight break for the v6 and you can get to the minimum weight with a glide that might be the way to go. If you can not get to the min weight then you may want to go with the lenco, liberty or G Force.

Shoot me an email I would like to talk to you about this in greater detail.

 

[John Wilde]

Talk to Bill Anderson

Talk to bill he has run the ATI stuff and is putting a liberty in his car. He would be able to shoot you in the right dirrection.

 

[Nashty]

A JW glide is hard to beat. I've been doing a lot of glide research lately (albeit for a lot less power).

Deadenbear doesn't make a BOP bellhousing. You'll end up using a JW bellhousing no matter what unless you use an adapter (don't unless you have to but at 1400HP, you shouldn't)

Lenco's are very heavy, suck up lots of horsepower, don't have a torque convertor (multiplication) and are only about $5K. A fully built JW glide is half that.

 

[6PacktoGo]

The Dedenbear case will be just fine, even with a thin steel adapter and motor plate. It is only about twenty times as strong as that JW bellhousing junk. The Dedenbear case is one piece, and will rely on the bellhousing bolts and the dowel pins in the block to align the entire transmission to the engine. The idea of using some 5/16"x18 bolts threaded into some 35 year old aluminum aligning the transmission and the engine, and harnessing 1000HP+ does not appeal to me. I also have not seen anything produced by JW that I'd trust to handle 1000 HP. The ATI planetary, drum, and input shaft are rated at well over 1500 HP.

But then what do I know, I've only been building racing transmissions for 20 years. I'm not too bad with engines, rearends, and chassis either. This advice may only be worth what you paid for it, your mileage may vary.

 

[Nashty]

I mean this seriously. I respect Alan's opinion on this subject matter. With that said...

An adapter locates the tranny back 1/4" plus you still need .090" steel for the mid plate.

For the record, the JW uses shouldered bolts to keep the BH aligned to the pump. It's advertised as 600% stronger than stock but I've never destructively tested one either. It may only be 300% stronger than stock.

I would agree to the stock case though. I think the servo apply would overwhelm the case. JW makes a good case also.

I know they do good work, they did my convertor (AC 9" N/L) and I am quite pleased in workmanship and price, it is a family owned business and I have no affliation or interest in them.

Powerglides can be built to take over 2000hp, JW or Deadenbear? Not sure why you are so down on JW. They have a warranty on their parts.

I have only built 4 motors and (0) transmissions. I will be building my first glide this winter on my own. Evidently, my opinion cost less than Alan's or whatever.

 

[6PacktoGo]

You can make the adapter and motorplate as one piece. Or you can use a piece of aluminum to make the adapter, and use a standard motor plate. The distance the transmission is spaced away from the engine (within reason) is not an issue. I used 5/16" 6061 motor plates on both ends of my 1000+ HP Rat motor, because the car left so hard it bent everything else. You need only tell the company who builds your converter what the total thickness of the adapter and/or motor plate is. I use extended dowels to align the engine and transmission properly.

As far as JW goes, a local speed shop began selling that stuff years ago, and they had the absolute worst quality control possible (the converters blew up, the input shafts broke, and on and on and on), they were just as bad as Hipster (who built some nice 400 transbrakes, so long as you don't mind the transmission locking up solid on the 1-2 shift). I have NEVER seen JW produce ANYTHING of anywhere near the quality of TCI or ATI, EVER. And I certainly haven't seen anything they built that I would trust to harness over 1000 HP.

The bellhousing deal is just a waste. Why bother? Further, you still have just a few 5/16"x18 bolts in 30 year old aluminum aligning the whole deal, whether they are shouldered or not. A PowerGlide case was never designed to hold itself together by the pump bolts, look behind the pump flange. Besides, you more than double the amount of misalignment possible when you expect the pump bolts to properly align everything.

You could easily take the TCI Chevy trans to BOP adapter and have it copied onto a motor plate, and use the Dedenbear case, and have a vastly superior setup. The TCI is about the thickness of a standard steel motor plate, and of EXCELLENT quality, I have one in MY own car.

I have a serious problem with companies that give less value for the dollar, because my customers expect me to spend their money wisely. For that reason, I refuse to sell or recommend either JW or Hipster, as I feel their products simply are not up to the standard that ATI, TCI, or Bruce set. A 15% savings in price on a product that is clearly more than 20% below the standard of the "top drawer" part is NOT a value. Few things in this world
p!ss me off more than to see the plight of a customer who spent good money on what he was led to believe was a part of equal to or better quality than his needs or than a top quality part, only to end up with a part that just doesn't cut it. Now the customer has to spenmd that money AGAIN, plus the money to upgrade to what he should have had, and then whatever else he loses in the deal. Like other damage, tow money, entry fees, etc.

Two truisms for hot rodding: "It doesn't cost that much more to go 1st class", and "you don't always get what you pay for, but you don't ever get what you don't pay for".


Ask anyone who attends the big tradeshow (the PRI Show), next weekend in Indy. The JW booth will be empty all weekend, no one ever goes there, but TCI, ATI, and other top companies, will have crowds all weekend. If people who make their living buying and selling high performance parts don't bother to talk to a company, why should you?

 

[John Wilde]

6packtogo,

What about the JW bellhousinsing for a turbo 400.
I was considering this because the shield is a PITA
to take on and off.

Thanks in advance!

 

[6PacktoGo]

Originally posted by John Wilde
6packtogo,

What about the JW bellhousinsing for a turbo 400.
I was considering this because the shield is a PITA
to take on and off.

Thanks in advance!

Again, you're asking a set of 6 or 8 5/16"x18 bolts to do a job they are not intended to do. Put a shield on it, you're much better off. The shield may introduce some clearance problems, but cutting off the bellhousing can introduce a myriad of problems. The bellhousing idea is the same whether you are talking about a PowerGlide or a 400.

Yes, I know they offer it, and I know that GM now has detachable bellhousings in the small version of the 4L60E. I also know that Ford has been doing things like that for years, witness the old cruise o, the C4/C5 family, and the FMX. And I don't like any of them. The only reason to cut the bellhousing off is if you HAVE to, as in making a Clutch Turbo.