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nu2gn

fasteddie
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
158
so i pulled my engine out and took it apart to bare block, found mains,rods and cam bearings are scored badly,due to low oil pressure. i think i found that is that my first lifter i could not pull up with a magnet, i took the cam out and pushed the lifter down into the journal. when it came out, i noticed that the lifter is concaved, does anyone know why it could have happed, maybe it was not turning?:eek::eek:
 
number 1 cylinder, i got the car in may, don't know what kinda lubricants it was running, oil pump gears were worn and so was the housing and front cover.
 
any ideas on what size cam to use for everyday car, reliable. is a used kit worth it?
 
With the oils that we have today thanks to the EPA that's becoming less and less uncommon.
It sounds like you had low oil pressure and didn't know it. I'm guessing you don't have an oil gauge?

When you combine a worn front cam bearing with a worn oil pump that's a recipe for disaster. What little oil the pump sends to the engine gets hemorrhaged by the front cam bearing right off the bat and all the rods and mains have to fight for what's left when the lifters get done with it.

It's odd that you lost the 1st lobe though. A more common failure is the #3 exhaust.

I would defiantly recommend going roller when you go back together. It's a lot more expensive, but the horsepower and reliability the roller offers is worth it.

I wouldn't use your factory oil cooler again either.
 
i have an oil pressure gauge, but have not owned the car for long, i did see the pressure change that's why i stopped driving it, but once i took the oil gears out, i knew i had bigger problems, im just wondering, is spending 700 dollars more for a roller kit worth it? for a car that i don't wanna overspin, or drive that much? the reason im saying it is because i broke a finger and worker's comp will only pay me 2/3 of my paycheck, and when i go back to work i won't be as productive working on flat rate scale.
 
Whether it's worth it or not is purely a personal decision. I wouldn't dream of running a flat tappet cam today (the only reason my car still isn't running after 3 years). If you're not worried about the extra performance, then a flat tappet might be an option as long as you're willing to take the extra steps to try and keep it from going flat. Not to mention risking the entire engine, turbo, and oil cooler on the flat tappet.
From what I've ready you're already into some pretty big money having to do a rebuild and get a new oil system.
Consider running the numbers with both a flat tappet and a roller kit and see just what the percentage increase you're looking at. What ever that comes up to might help you decide.
What kind of shape are your cylinders and pistons in? Are you going to have to do an overbore too?
 
thank you for giving a valid point,the engine is not bored, won't be planning on doing it either,the block is in good shape and so are the pistons, crank is .010 undersized, has some slight scoring in journal one, but will replace cracnk. im taking the block to a machine shop tomorrow for cam bearings and hot tank it. i think that it is becoming clearer that rollers is the way to go, i have heard many negative opinions on comp cams, any recomendations?
 
Comp cam's have some pretty good roller grinds...I would still go with a grind from Full throttle though...split duration 210/215...

Stay away from Comp Cam's Roller Lifters...unless you have a purely adjustable drivetrain (T&D's)...Go with Morel Lifters and/or Comp Cam 941's or K-Motion Valve Springs...if you got an everyday driver 206 will be fine...if you go with a 212 then you will need ported heads to take advantage of that cam...
If you intend on going flat tap..(I wouldn't for the reasons Mr. Brown stated above) get ahold of Mr. Richard Clark (ARICH2000) on this board and order up some of his Z-Paste...follow the instructions given and pray/hope you don't wipe a lobe eventually....
 
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