Turbo6Smackdown
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So how do the lockup stockers survive over 200,000 miles of wot blasts?
Lock up vs. Non l/u efficiency when unlocked
- Thread starter turbo nasty
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turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
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ALL I know is my TCC started to slip/Chatter and fianlly would not L/U at 91k at that point (10 years ago) the car had the forced l/u (via chip) for about 25k miles on it in the low 13's.
Sorry dude gotta call the BS flag on 200,000 :Forced L/U" in a low 13 second car or faster. Aint gonna happen..aaarrrr ...no way...nata.
The STOCK chip DID NOT force L/U repeat DID NOT FORCE L/U at WOT. Thats how they last 200,00 k because they werent being locked at WFO
The aftermarket/peformance chips or a manual switch by driver forced the event.
Sorry dude gotta call the BS flag on 200,000 :Forced L/U" in a low 13 second car or faster. Aint gonna happen..aaarrrr ...no way...nata.
The STOCK chip DID NOT force L/U repeat DID NOT FORCE L/U at WOT. Thats how they last 200,00 k because they werent being locked at WFO
The aftermarket/peformance chips or a manual switch by driver forced the event.
Dusty Bradford
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Because you can fit a much larger clutch in a 12" converter vs a 10" converter. To make the smaller diameter clutches hold, you have to use more of them.
Turbo6Smackdown
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Ahh. stockers never locked up. I see. Ok then, there's the reason.
Soooo, thennn...... why are we not just running nice lock ups, and have the chip not lock them up as well? I'm lost...
Soooo, thennn...... why are we not just running nice lock ups, and have the chip not lock them up as well? I'm lost...
Less than 50 WOT lockups if over 550hp. At 600+ less than 25. Under 400hp hundreds of LU's before failure. Im talking about D5 cores here. Nothing else. 9x11's last a while in high hp but are not ideal compared to a proper NL unit.
some 9/11s will take a beating. I just can't give up a LU with all the street driving we still do.
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
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Not sure what you mean??? Or are asking
Turbo6Smackdown
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I was still debating between the two. then, everyone started to say that lock ups fail all the time...and that got me wondering... Well, if lockups fail all the time, why did GM put a lock up in our cars to begin with? and why isn't mine, and everyone else that runs a D5 not experience all these failures. The question was answered, in 2 parts. 1, cuz 12" converters have bigger clutches than the 10 inchers, and secondly, because our chips don't lock up our converters at WOT. Which made me ask the next most logical question. if our chips never locked up the converter at wot to begin with, then why are we ever locking them up at wot now?
bison partially answered the question with HP numbers. the higher the hp, of course, the higher rate of failure. but that's with ANY car mod, with ANY car part. My main question is, if they never locked up to begin with, and the original combo always had the best drivabitlity, then why are we locking them up now?
bison partially answered the question with HP numbers. the higher the hp, of course, the higher rate of failure. but that's with ANY car mod, with ANY car part. My main question is, if they never locked up to begin with, and the original combo always had the best drivabitlity, then why are we locking them up now?
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
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What kills them is locking them at WOT Wide Open Throttle.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
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To make UP RPM lost in the stall, get better MPH and to keep the engine in its power range.
Basically I can run a loose converter down low for spool-up and launch harder then I can LU the Converter up-top to make up or try to eliminate any converter slippage.
Damm these type of threads won't die
opinions / opinions I have had Buicks since the "good one's" came out 86-87 and the 89 TTA . Even in the beginning racin these cars in 86 you locked up the converter. Matter of fact we drove the cars with a manual LU switch buy our hand . D5s took a beating!! I did take the trans out every 2 years to freshen them up and did replace the D5 with a new one from GM for $125. Maintenance thing after beating the cars to death. We still drive Melissa's GN (9s @ 138+)with the LU switch handy and we DO LOCK IT UP ALL THE TIME !! . I think a lot of people don't "use" the cars anymore and go racing every now an then an figure they don't need a LU converter. To each their own.
I'm going to try and experiment to see how this works. May not even be relevent to this thread.
It's a recent blast out on a back road with my old 7 disc vigy (but not locked on this run).
Let me see if it's readable:
I'll have to split it into 3 posts.
gauge;
followed by graph
followed by data
The graph shows boost, AFR, converter slipage %, A/F correction factor and rpm. When at the track my C.S. % generally is lower the higher I get toward my 5100 prm shift point. Of course when locked it drops to 0%.
The gauge and data pages are much more data.
It's a recent blast out on a back road with my old 7 disc vigy (but not locked on this run).
Let me see if it's readable:
I'll have to split it into 3 posts.
gauge;
followed by graph
followed by data
The graph shows boost, AFR, converter slipage %, A/F correction factor and rpm. When at the track my C.S. % generally is lower the higher I get toward my 5100 prm shift point. Of course when locked it drops to 0%.
The gauge and data pages are much more data.
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
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Just stumbled across my old thread and figured I would give an
UPDATE
The thread ended with me getting mty PATS convertor back. Well I had backed off street racing teh car and was using it for a DD mostly. Did race the car some but was NOT LOCKING AT WOT.
The converor started rattling again and even tho Steve at Pats stood behind it every time I needed a convertor to hold up more than a few months and had enough of their product failing.
Sent my convertor off to PTC (great nice freindly folks) and they made me a new one around 2.6k stall (stressed that I wanted good slip% on the big end).
The first one they sent me had a leak in the weld on the two halves which really sucked since I only discovered this after everything was in the car and driving and I started smelling trans fluid..but things happen.
Importatnt thing is....They made it right and sent another one out in a few days and its been in the car and been raced and street driven alot probably has 15 k on it or more ...Knock on wood its been great and works like a champ.
UPDATE
The thread ended with me getting mty PATS convertor back. Well I had backed off street racing teh car and was using it for a DD mostly. Did race the car some but was NOT LOCKING AT WOT.
The converor started rattling again and even tho Steve at Pats stood behind it every time I needed a convertor to hold up more than a few months and had enough of their product failing.
Sent my convertor off to PTC (great nice freindly folks) and they made me a new one around 2.6k stall (stressed that I wanted good slip% on the big end).
The first one they sent me had a leak in the weld on the two halves which really sucked since I only discovered this after everything was in the car and driving and I started smelling trans fluid..but things happen.
Importatnt thing is....They made it right and sent another one out in a few days and its been in the car and been raced and street driven alot probably has 15 k on it or more ...Knock on wood its been great and works like a champ.
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