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I have been listening to everything you have told me and answering every question you have asked that I know the answer to. I will look into the springs more, I do not have the answers for that. I will reread post 11. I got upset with Bison because many of his suggestions were already being covered or worked on and I asked about a WB which was a suggestion but then I felt like I was getting attacked because I will not take the advice that has been given. I have tried to update this post as I get more answers. I'm not sure how I can do that any faster. Before Bison gave his advice, I was working through the numbers I got on my SM and you and others had helped with that. I learned about adjusting the IAC and the TPS which had never been done, did that and reported back. If this is a thread that needs to die then I will let it go and reread everything again and again but I keep updating it with what I find from what I have read. As I work on things I may forget to check something, like the MAF. Bison recommended it and I was not sure how to check it, I stated if someone told me how I would do that. You did that for me and I will check it when I am around the car next.
Thank you for all the help and I hope that I continue to receive help because I know it will help my car out a ton. All of you guys are very knowledgeable and I am trying to soak it all in.

Thank you for sticking with us.
It seems going over and over a lot of the same questions in threads like this is frustrating, and when the "basics" are mentioned we think everyone knows them.

I only recently added a scanmaster and installed a TT tunable chip.
I've read what others say works, but have only played around with changing spark gap, fuel pressure, boost level and octane to keep it running well since new.
Like you, I'm still soaking it in.

I don't think the spring cleaning guide has been mentioned yet. Yeah, more reading.

http://www.gnttype.org/maint/basics.html

It sounds like you are on the right track now, and more than likely you have some heavy lifting to do.

There are Three (3) Rules to our cars, and they are COMBO, COMBO, COMBO! Meaning you have to have a Combo that works in unison with each other, not a bunch of components that work against one another. And that’s what you need to focus on for now is getting a good working combo going. And then the beast will be back!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree, combo, combo, combo, but does seem to be a bit illusive without a bunch of experience.

Search for recipes such as the ones found at www.rjcracing.com and tap/ click on go fast in the header.

I haven't looked much here for combos/ times, but may be usefull.

https://turbobuick.com/forums/time-slip-and-combo-database.101/

Keep at it. You'll get it.

Cheers,
George
 


It's a quality piece. Remember, you'll have to weld in a bung for the sensor, wherever you decide to place it. Mine, like many others, is in the downpipe. Not all that pretty, but easily accessible.

I feel this is a timely quote from Dr. Boost here on the board.........

"Your boost guage makes you feel like a big man until your oil pressure guage makes you feel like a little girl."

Good luck and keep on trying, you'll get there.
 
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Just my opinion, but before you spend lots of time and money swapping out parts like a cam and rear gears, verify what you have is actually working. Verify the timing is proper with a timing light. Checking valve springs as was mentioned is a good idea. Verify the MAF is hitting 255 at WOT on the scanmaster. Then when you have the money spend it on a wideband and modern MAF/translator so you can make good tuning decisions based on modern, accurate equipment. The narrowband o2 and stock MAF are junk by today's standards. Swapping to a 1" taller rear tire will make those 3.73 gears feel more like a 3.42 for a lot less money.

I just finished tuning a SBC powered S10 that could barely spin the tires. $20 worth of carb jets/rods and a timing adjustment felt like it picked up 50hp. The prior owner just threw parts at it.

I think your problem is mostly in the tune, and the ability to accurately know what the car is doing.
 
Just my opinion, but before you spend lots of time and money swapping out parts like a cam and rear gears, verify what you have is actually working. Verify the timing is proper with a timing light. Checking valve springs as was mentioned is a good idea. Verify the MAF is hitting 255 at WOT on the scanmaster. Then when you have the money spend it on a wideband and modern MAF/translator so you can make good tuning decisions based on modern, accurate equipment. The narrowband o2 and stock MAF are junk by today's standards. Swapping to a 1" taller rear tire will make those 3.73 gears feel more like a 3.42 for a lot less money.

I just finished tuning a SBC powered S10 that could barely spin the tires. $20 worth of carb jets/rods and a timing adjustment felt like it picked up 50hp. The prior owner just threw parts at it.

I think your problem is mostly in the tune, and the ability to accurately know what the car is doing.

Thanks Mike. I am not planning on anything drastic right now, I do not have the money. haha. I am probably going to get a translator and LT1 MAF and a new fuel pump because I know the one in there is at least 12 years old. I know I need to tune somethings before I dive off the deep end with throwing money at it. When I get back from vacation I am planning on pulling the car back in the garage and starting from square one again and making sure I have wires where they are suppose to be, no vacuum leaks, no pre turbo exhaust leaks, sensors adjusted to where they are suppose to be, and check what converter is in the car. Although, I am pretty sure it is stock. The tires are a good idea, I'll be in need of them once I get this car some what figured out, haha. I am also thinking about an alky kit for a cushion, not for higher boost right now. I was told this would buy me some forgiveness while I figure all of this stuff out. I am also thinking of sending my heads to Steve V this winter to have them ported. After that I will add the bigger turbo that the cam needs and have the chips programmed by TT, but I am getting way ahead of myself. Square one. I have been reading everyone's posts like crazy and going over the vortex buicks site. There is a lot that I did not tune or adjust when I put the car back together. That is a long story but it was put together very quickly. Thanks again for all the advice and keep it coming. I plan to update the thread as I figure things out, maybe I can help someone else that is in my shoes.
 
Checking the valve springs will cost next to nothing.
 
Forgot to write that part into the above post. The springs will be getting checked too. Is there a way to do it on the engine or do I need to pull on and check it? Thanks
 
There are several ways to do it on the car. Search here and Youtube for the gist of it.
 
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