ThanksHe sells the AEM brand Wideband O2 gauge. IIRC it comes with everything you need except a gauge pod.
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SignUp Now!ThanksHe sells the AEM brand Wideband O2 gauge. IIRC it comes with everything you need except a gauge pod.
I have been listening to everything you have told me and answering every question you have asked that I know the answer to. I will look into the springs more, I do not have the answers for that. I will reread post 11. I got upset with Bison because many of his suggestions were already being covered or worked on and I asked about a WB which was a suggestion but then I felt like I was getting attacked because I will not take the advice that has been given. I have tried to update this post as I get more answers. I'm not sure how I can do that any faster. Before Bison gave his advice, I was working through the numbers I got on my SM and you and others had helped with that. I learned about adjusting the IAC and the TPS which had never been done, did that and reported back. If this is a thread that needs to die then I will let it go and reread everything again and again but I keep updating it with what I find from what I have read. As I work on things I may forget to check something, like the MAF. Bison recommended it and I was not sure how to check it, I stated if someone told me how I would do that. You did that for me and I will check it when I am around the car next.
Thank you for all the help and I hope that I continue to receive help because I know it will help my car out a ton. All of you guys are very knowledgeable and I am trying to soak it all in.
It sounds like you are on the right track now, and more than likely you have some heavy lifting to do.
There are Three (3) Rules to our cars, and they are COMBO, COMBO, COMBO! Meaning you have to have a Combo that works in unison with each other, not a bunch of components that work against one another. And that’s what you need to focus on for now is getting a good working combo going. And then the beast will be back!
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Thanks
Just my opinion, but before you spend lots of time and money swapping out parts like a cam and rear gears, verify what you have is actually working. Verify the timing is proper with a timing light. Checking valve springs as was mentioned is a good idea. Verify the MAF is hitting 255 at WOT on the scanmaster. Then when you have the money spend it on a wideband and modern MAF/translator so you can make good tuning decisions based on modern, accurate equipment. The narrowband o2 and stock MAF are junk by today's standards. Swapping to a 1" taller rear tire will make those 3.73 gears feel more like a 3.42 for a lot less money.
I just finished tuning a SBC powered S10 that could barely spin the tires. $20 worth of carb jets/rods and a timing adjustment felt like it picked up 50hp. The prior owner just threw parts at it.
I think your problem is mostly in the tune, and the ability to accurately know what the car is doing.