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corkatoa

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2015
Messages
50
My 87 block is at the machinists, he says it looks like it needs nothing more than a cleaning and will get new bearings and rings. The camshaft is as new as well.

But.....

It is apart and with future mods in mind, what would be the recommendations to do at this time? I have been reading threads here and I am absolutely overwhelmed by the amount of mods for these engines. I have built a large number of v8's in my day, including several LS engines last few years.. I do my own assembly usually, this is the first shortblock I am having someone else put together.

Was looking for a beginners thread on mods but couldn't find one that applies to my situation. I have lurked for years and all the info is always great, but all a little advanced to the uninitiated.

My questions are this: if I keep stock pistons (they are in great condition), what camshaft should I go with? Should I have the machinist balance engine? He has recommended it and will do it on the cheap as we are well acquainted. I have 42lb injectors, an ecm extender chip(?), upgraded fuel pump and an aftermarket throttle body/plenum. Also have a LS1 MAF with translator. Have stock intercooler to use.
Just want to put together a strong motor for the future. Have no set goals on performance, but would like a starting point on the shortblock. More of a mind for a touring car than a drag car.
Will worry about heads after block is done, but they look like new.
Here is box of goodies and pic of MAF.
IMG_1074.JPG

IMG_1072.JPG
 
My 87 block is at the machinists, he says it looks like it needs nothing more than a cleaning and will get new bearings and rings. The camshaft is as new as well.

But.....

It is apart and with future mods in mind, what would be the recommendations to do at this time?
the build should reflect the goal.while its out I would have the head ported;)
 
It appears that you already have a all the good parts and if you are looking for just a touring car, you can choose any small hydraulic cam that would do the job for you - like 206 - 206 with matching valve springs. I would also recommend balancing the engine and Timing cover oil mod and ARP hardware..Just my two cents.
 
thanks for feedback. will research said cam and the mods you mention.
As for the head porting, that is one of the things I will do. I assume there is a thread or two on that subject. I have recently done a few sets of LS heads.
 
As for the timing cover oil mod... which one? Seems a complicated issue in the threads i just searched.
 
Comp cam part# 69-000-5 is a great entry level cam that works well with no downsides anywhere. It is hydraulic flat tappet with 206/206 109 lsa and .446 lift with stock rockers. Comp 980 valve springs work well with this cam. I would get rocker shaft braces and or heavy duty shafts as the oem shafts will break on the ends if not reinforced......Keep your bearing clearances as close to .002 as you can, these engines do not tolerate excessive clearances very well........radius and deburr all of the corners and edges in the oil pump passages and set the gear end clearance to .002-.004.....if the oil pump pockets are free of deep scores and the gear teeth are in good shape re-use them with the original by pass spring.....60 psi hot at 2500rpm is what you want to end up with for oil pressure, nothing more is needed......its up to your wallet as to how far you want to go but this is some good basic info to point you in the right direction.....Mike at full throttle has some good entry level cam packages if you prefer to go that route and is good to deal with....Bison is another one that can supply you with a good cam, just dont over do it on the duration........you will need to do a full assesment on your fuel system to see if you need a pump or injectors........If your engine has the factory turbo pistons it [post a pic] leave them in, they can take an incredible amount of abuse.....post up pics of everything the guys on here will help you figure out what you have......
 
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You didn't mention the use of a "hot-wire kit". Mandatory w/the fuel pump upgrade. Factory wiring was insufficient from the start.
While you have the block at the machine shop, you might consider replacing the 2 center caps w/steel and using arp studs for re-assembly. It's just added security because the cranks can flex under detonation, which could earn you a time honored place in the D.O.T.C. Club.(drive over the crank club)
Did anyone mention the earl brown mod's for the front cover? That's what they were alluding to when they mentioned it. Should be able to do a search for it.
 
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