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turbov6joe

Signal 1 J-12
Joined
May 22, 2002
Messages
2,220
Yesterday I dropped off my TTA heads for a full race port/polish, bowl and combustion chamber massaging (sp), and a valve job. The porter asked me what grind do I want on the valves....I just stood there like a flip'n idiot and said "I don't know, a 3 angle???". Anyhow, for those of you that have had valve grinds done to your TTA heads, what did you have done? He said he had about 10 different options to choose from.... HELP!!
 
Did you lose a head gasket too?

Sorry but I would have been as lost as you to that question.

Jason
 
No lost gaskets as of yet, just an extra set of heads I'm having done in preperation for a winter head and cam swap. Yea I was and still am pretty lost about all the different angles he can do. I didn't think there was more than just 1 or 2...not 10+ and he said that wasn't all of them???
 
WWCD?

What would Champion do ? :D

3 angle should do the trick.. check with major head porters for consensus. They do 7 and 10 on NA applications.. Maybe the valve MFG would have a reccomendation??

Good question.. follow up..
 
I asked the question today, 5 angle. Seats is used to dissipate heat from the valve's. More seat area, better dissipation..
 
So Julio, you contacted Champion and that's what they said....cool, thanks! Makes sense to me now that I think about it. I'll call the porter tommorow and see what he has to say.
 
Originally posted by turbov6joe
Yesterday I dropped off my TTA heads for a full race port/polish, bowl and combustion chamber massaging (sp), and a valve job. The porter asked me what grind do I want on the valves....I just stood there like a flip'n idiot and said "I don't know, a 3 angle???". Anyhow, for those of you that have had valve grinds done to your TTA heads, what did you have done? He said he had about 10 different options to choose from.... HELP!!

Three angle valve job is fine for the valve seat, but IMHO, I would have the machinist put two angles on the valve face. To clarify, a three angle valve job is not the angles on the face of the valve, but the angles on the valve seat. The intake and exhaust valve will be standard with a 45 or 46 degree face. I suggest adding 30 degrees behind the 45 degrees on the face of the valve. So what you'll get is 3 angles on the seat and 2 angles on the face. This is what is being done to my cylinder heads. If your vehicle primarily sees street miles, I would suggest staying away from 5 angle or multi-angle (more than 3) valve jobs.
 
I like saying this because I'm a Joe :D , but I'm just having a regular joe blow machinist do my heads. Before I sent them to machinst, I port matched the intake and intake port to the gasket. There will be no bowl work, just 3 angles on the seat and 2 angles on the face of the valves. The 3 angles on the seat will be 60, 45 and 30 and the 2 angles on the valve face will be 30 BEHIND the 45 (this is the recommended procedure from the Buick Powersource manual, to increase flow). I ordered new valves, from a company called SI valves (1.745 intake and 1.50 exhaust). They are stainless steel swirl polished valves with back cut stems ($11.86/ valve). I'm using Crane keepers and retainer, with a mixture of 0.050 plus and standard keepers and retainers (ordered from SI valves). Valve stem height is within 0.002 of spec. The valve springs are 3927142 GM springs (SBC 1st racing design camshaft spring; 110# @ 1.7 installed height, with a 358#/inch spring rate) and the combination of standard and 0.050 plus keepers and retainers have allowed the machinist to bring valve spring installed height to within 0.002 inch of one another. The 3 angle valve job leaves the seats kind of thin, and the multi angle or 5 angle valve job leaves the seats thinner. This makes the seats more prone to cracking. So I chose a 3 angles max. If your primary goal is racing, then the 5 or multi angle vavle job is the way to go, but IMHO unless you're going to tear down a lot (like lots of racers do), stay with the 3 angles or less on the seat. Sometimes more is not better, for the street. Your machinist can do whatever your requirements are, you just have to communicate the specifics to him/her and be firm in getting what you want (you're the one shelling the dough).
 
gofstbuick,
Thanks a ton for the detailed info, that's exactly what I was looking for. Does the Power Source book give any other tips/tricks for the heads other than what you've mentioned already? I plan to call the porter this week and give him this info and any other you might be able to share. He's behind 2 months on heads so I have some time yet before he touches mine. Do you have a copy of the Power Source book?
 
I can make a copy of the section on valve grinds from the Powersource manual, plus the porting templates. You'll need to email me an address. Cylinder head work takes time. I've been waiting for my cylinder heads to be completed for the last 3 weeks. I just completed the lower end, ported the turbo inlet bell and received the a new TA49 from Limit Engineering (John Craig). Plus Nick Micale prepared the timing cover for my engine. The engine is primed, and I'm just waiting for the heads. Hopefully this weekend, and with the labor day holiday, I'll be running by Monday.
 
I did not read everybody's post so I don't know if its been said, but have the valves back cut. Helps a lot at low lift. Also have a cut put on the face of the exhaust valve. (No need to do this on the intake valve faces) I have actually done the grind on the exhaust valve faces myself.

Blair Phillis
 
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