Looking into buying 88 and up Blazers/Jimmy. Need help....

[Last of a Breed]

I'm possibly going to be looking into buying an 88-94 or so Blazer or Jimmy for the winter. I just wanted to know if any of you guys have/had any experience with them? Specifically with the 4.3L. It will be 4x4 as well and be the S-10/S-15 version. Are there any major reliability issues with them? And are there any message boards for them? Thanks, any help will be appreciated.

Kevin

 

[kh440]

Avoid the 2.8 like the plague! The 4.3 TBI engine (vin code "Z") is a fairly bulletproof engine. The early 4.3 vortec (vin code "W") used in 92-94 can have lots of trouble with the injection system and its expensive to fix. 4WD system also pretty trouble-proof there is a vacuum actuator on top of the transfer case that goes bad but nothing major. Only other weak link is the steering linkage. (idler and pitman arms to be specific) Good luck.....

 

[tjthorson]

I just bought a 94 4x4 with the vortec. I paid $1700 for it. Has the digital dash, push button 4x4, etc. It has 145K on the clock. The vortec is a MUCH more powerful engine over my 4.3 TBI I had in a 92 blazer a long time ago.

Check for rust, mine wasn't too bad.

I had a 92 4.3 TBI with a 5 speed back in 92. Loved that little truck.

 

[Carman83ss454]

I have a '94 Jimmy I bought with 60K on it, is now at 190K+.

On the fuel system, yes, it USED to be a costly fix. To be exact, there's a "main" injector/pressure regulator assembly under the lower intake plenum. In the past, if the main injector OR the FPR malfunctioned, you had to replace the entire assembly. In fact, when the plastic supply lines to the main injector/FPR became brittle and ruptured, the entire unit had to be replaced. Now though, all 3 parts are available separately thru the aftermarket, or OE. IMHO, the aftermarket pieces are just as good, and in some cases, the aftermarket producers are supplying the OE with parts. Also, the main injector (sometimes called the "spider" injector) MUST have 66 psi of fuel pressure in order to supply the 6 cylinder injectors. Less than that, and it pretty much just shuts off.

The front end will eat lower ball joints like a homeless guy at a free buffet.

If you get a check engine light/SES code related to the EGR system, do not replace the EGR valve right away. Remove it and check for a piece of loosened carbon holding the valve open. 99% of the time, that will be the problem. If this is the case, run/rev the engine for a minute with the EGR valve removed to blow out any other loosened carbon chunks.

The 4.3 Vortec heads seem to have the same problem as production smallblock Vortec heads, coolant loss. Mine has been "consuming" a slight amount coolant ever since I got it, and I still don't know where it's going. But, it has never gotten worse in 130K+ miles. Just check it regularly, and it should be OK.

If you find an oil leak in the oil filter adapter area, it's the adapter O-ring. Don't bother trying to tighten it, it won't work. Get a new one. The oil lines are also a leak point at both the filter and the cooler.

Overall, my '93 has been one of the best vehicles I have ever owned, it has seen it's fair share of abuse, and still keeps going........knock on wood.

If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.

Scott

 

[batmansbuick]

I've got a 92 Jimmy with the 4.3 TBI and its a tough motor. I bought it with 95k and now its at 130+ and still going strong. I wanted a TBI because of the costly repairs of the CPI Vortec Motor mentioned above, but If they have a cheaper aftermarket alternative now, that might be the way to go. Good luck.

 

[Loosenut]

I have a 94 Blazer for sale. Its a 2 door 5-speed manual 4X4, 4.3L. Real nice shape no rust. Located in Detroit, let me know if your interested.

Andy
xxmarvinx@aol.com

 

[myclone]

Originally posted by Carman83ss454
I have a '94 Jimmy I bought with 60K on it, is now at 190K+.

On the fuel system, yes, it USED to be a costly fix. To be exact, there's a "main" injector/pressure regulator assembly under the lower intake plenum. In the past, if the main injector OR the FPR malfunctioned, you had to replace the entire assembly. In fact, when the plastic supply lines to the main injector/FPR became brittle and ruptured, the entire unit had to be replaced. Now though, all 3 parts are available separately thru the aftermarket, or OE. IMHO, the aftermarket pieces are just as good, and in some cases, the aftermarket producers are supplying the OE with parts. Also, the main injector (sometimes called the "spider" injector) MUST have 66 psi of fuel pressure in order to supply the 6 cylinder injectors. Less than that, and it pretty much just shuts off.

The front end will eat lower ball joints like a homeless guy at a free buffet.

If you get a check engine light/SES code related to the EGR system, do not replace the EGR valve right away. Remove it and check for a piece of loosened carbon holding the valve open. 99% of the time, that will be the problem. If this is the case, run/rev the engine for a minute with the EGR valve removed to blow out any other loosened carbon chunks.

The 4.3 Vortec heads seem to have the same problem as production smallblock Vortec heads, coolant loss. Mine has been "consuming" a slight amount coolant ever since I got it, and I still don't know where it's going. But, it has never gotten worse in 130K+ miles. Just check it regularly, and it should be OK.

If you find an oil leak in the oil filter adapter area, it's the adapter O-ring. Don't bother trying to tighten it, it won't work. Get a new one. The oil lines are also a leak point at both the filter and the cooler.

Overall, my '93 has been one of the best vehicles I have ever owned, it has seen it's fair share of abuse, and still keeps going........knock on wood.

If I think of anything else, I'll let you know.

Scott

Ditto on what he said with the following added...

The idler arm (pitman arm) will wear out by ~75k.
The digital dashes are prone to freak out, go blank, or partially blank.
Valve seals will be trash by ~75k (easy fix though).
HVAC blower motors tend to quit working due to resistor packs burning up (super easy fix).
Check the timing if you get an OBD I as most old school mechanics like to advance it (it should be set at 0 deg).
Use the stock oil pressure gauge for reference only as 99% of them are WAY off.
The orig GM power window motors like to crap out (PIA to fix).
Engage the 4wd from time to time as they tend to quit functioning from lack of use.
Stock 4.3s HATE high RPM so if you get it stuck dont twist it up to 9 grand trying to get un-stuck.

Finally, as was previously mentioned the remote oil filter lines, O rings, and fittings tend to hemorage oil on some trucks. The only effective fix is to replace the lines if they are leaking or replace the gaskets/O rings on the adaptor that bolts to the block. These parts are pretty cheap but its a hassle/messy job to do.

HTH

 

[Carman83ss454]

Hey Myclone, your post reminded me of something else-

There's a connector behind the passenger side kick panel that must be disconnected in order to check the timing. Before I learned that I had a low power problem once, mine showed 0 deg., but it was actually runnig close to 30 deg. retarded.

Scott

 

[soonergn]

I work for an aftermarket warranty company and alot of what has been mentioned so far pretty well matches what we have seen here. The only thing I'd like to add is that the passenger seat recliner handles are notorious for breaking off. It's not the handle itself but the mechanism it goes into, so you have to take the seat out, replace the recliner mechanism, and reinstall the handle.

 

[myclone]

Originally posted by Carman83ss454
Hey Myclone, your post reminded me of something else-

There's a connector behind the passenger side kick panel that must be disconnected in order to check the timing. Before I learned that I had a low power problem once, mine showed 0 deg., but it was actually runnig close to 30 deg. retarded.

Scott

Yeah, I shoulda mentioned about the set timing connector.

FYI.. On OBD I trucks its actually under the dash on the passenger side. To find it open the passenger door, pull back the carpet under the dash, and you will see where the main harness comes trough the fire wall. There will be a lone single wire/connector outside this taped up harness (pink/black in color) that you need to disconnect to set base timing. Once base timing is set unhook the battery to clear the SES code, plug in set timing connctor, reconnect battery, and off you go.

HTH

 

[Last of a Breed]

Ok thanks guys, you've all been a good help. Any otehr suggestions and comments are still welcome.

Kevin