Looks like I'm in line for a rebuild, I need a plan

[BARRACUDA1968]

I pretty certain my motor is coming out due to a rod bearing failure. Motor runs but it's a matter of time at this point.

All my mods are in my sig. I run hydraulic roller cams and rockers on all my other cars but wondering how important this is in a turbo buick? Right now I am just a flat tappet hydraulic cam and what appears to be stock rocker arms.

If I pull it and go through it I want to do it right. I don't want to stroke it just build a nice street/strip combo. Since I'm at it what would I need to do to get this car in the high 10's?

What is a proven combo I can follow that may work with my heads and turbo etc?

Thank you

 

[notacarlo]

Turbolou...there's the plan.


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[BARRACUDA1968]

I know better than to ask this but what is "Turbolou"?

 

[we4Mateo]

Get a forged crank in stock stroke, have a shop do billet center mains, good rods, and good pistons. Do some minor port work while the heads are off, clean up the bowls. Def go roller, but do a mild one for easy street manors.

You and I have the same goals. A forged rotating with center mains is good to nines, so you'll only be whatever turbo away to run what ever number you want with cleaned up iron heads. High 10's will be easy and you'll have 9 sec guts.

 

[Ttype6]

A forged stroker crank costs the same as a forged stock stroke crank. If you decide to go the stroker route,I might have some pistons that would fit the bill.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Thanks for the info, what cam would you go with? Rockers? Can use the stock shafts? etc.

I'm not sure what is in this motor so I will have to get it out and take it apart. Some of the things you mentioned may be done already. I have the receipts but I can't read the hand writing.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

A forged stroker crank costs the same as a forged stock stroke crank. If you decide to go the stroker route,I might have some pistons that would fit the bill.

I'm not up on what the stroker route entails? I don't want to spend anymore than I have to. I am in the middle of rebuilding my 474 Pontiac stroker for my Trans Am right now so this GN motor deal was not in the plan for this summer. I would like to get it going this year hopefully soon and I will do it right but if the stroker idea is a lot of extra $$$ and I can go high 10's with a stock set up that's what I will do. Thank you for the post though.

 

[Ttype6]

I'm not up on what the stroker route entails? I don't want to spend anymore than I have to. I am in the middle of rebuilding my 474 Pontiac stroker for my Trans Am right now so this GN motor deal was not in the plan for this summer. I would like to get it going this year hopefully soon and I will do it right but if the stroker idea is a lot of extra $$$ and I can go high 10's with a stock set up that's what I will do. Thank you for the post though.

The cost is the same and the bigger motor will do everything faster and easier.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

So I can use my same rods and pistons with a stroker if mine will do the job? Just curious because all the other stroker motors I've had built require more machine work that a stock setup.

 

[Ttype6]

So I can use my same rods and pistons with a stroker

No. If you were to purchase forged rods,pistons and crank,the cost would be the same for stock stroke or longer than stock stroke. You can go a long way with the stock crank and rods with aftermarket forged pistons. You will need to strengthen the bottom end with either steel caps or a girdle.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

Thanks for the info, I didn't build my motor so I'm not sure what's in it. Once I get it out I will see what I have and make a decision on where to go from here.

 

[turbodave231]

If your engine has been rebuilt in the past, You might be able to replace the one rod that has spun the bearing and replace the crank. Mike and Marianne at Full Throttle sell a stock stroke external balance forged crank. That would be a good upgrade and not break the bank. Billet caps and new pistons will start the cash a flowin'. Building a stroker motor will cost you upwards of 10K before you are done.

 

[Pronto]

Find out what's salvageable first. A good forged crank and billet caps would be a good foundation. I would go roller cam though. Maybe upgrade the injectors and turbo.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

I'm going to pull the pan in the morning and check the rod bearing on cyl #1. That seems to be the one making the noise. The I'll know more about what I'm dealing with.

 

[ttypewhite]

if your plan is high 10's, keep the stock crank and rods. Just use ARP hardware on the mains and rods. Upgrade to a good forged piston and ring set. Everything else you have motor wise will get you there provided you have fuel system to support it, along with the right transmission mods and stall converter that compliments your setup.

 

[Reggie West]

Go with a forged rotating assembly because high 10s always turns into low 10s.

You can buy the assembly ( crank, rods, pistons and flywheel) for $1500 maybe less.

Port and polish the heads if you have not already.

Cams, you can run a 206/206 and it will get you there. A 212/212 or 212/218 would be ideal. You should go with a roller setup no matter what. That means cam, lifters, rocker arms and push rods.

You can max out the 60 turbo you have and it will make good power. It will get you in the high 10s too.

 

[BARRACUDA1968]

I will definitely go full roller no matter what. I have been down that fast is not fast enough road before but not this time. I just go to the track on test and tune days for fun. Make some passes and then it's out of my system for a while. If it ends up being a mid 11 second car safely I can live with that. If my stock crank and rods are good there I will reuse them. I like to overbuild everything because I think doing it once and done is good practice. If this was a serious go to the track every weekend deal I would go all the way.

 

[scojack_2001]

I'll share my experience here. You asked a blanket question so to speak and got several different answers. None of them wrong in any way, shape or form. Just be ready to get a lot of "do this and not that". It'll drive you crazy. Nothing wrong with anything stated in the thread already.

Bottom line is its YOUR motor. No one has to live with it but you. And that's where the buck stops. As long as it makes you happy then you reached your goal.

Last winter/early spring I pulled my original 109 because it was drystarting. Typical Buick I know, but I wanted to do something about it. Had 133k on it and saw 11.32 in my full weight GN. Pulled it, tore it down, looked great. Given how good the stock crank & rods looked, I went with a standard freshening and spent my money elsewhere. Stock crank/rods/caps/bolts and TRW pistons in my motor. Popped for the good TA chain and cam bearings, and went with a Full Throttle 210/215 roller cam. Runs good with homeported 8445s. Stock intake and plenum too. Basically stock everything else other than that. Running stock rockers and TA shafts. Seem to be holding up well. Still runs good.

 

[psycho6cyl]

Id say set a budget and then.set a max budget and see what can fit where. Roller cam and lifter packages start close to 900-1000. Roller rockers are 500-600. Thats 1600 before motor work. You know things add up fast but id def do forged setup w billet main and if you dont want to.spend that money the very least billet main.caps w arp hardware.
Similar thing happened to me.I.bit the bullet and just had a rebuild done w a long block. It was a pretty penny but time.wise was worth it..went w a tr machine shop.and called it a day. Im actually happy I.did evennthough the builds not done. It helps me sleep at night

 

[coach]

Id say set a budget and then.set a max budget and see what can fit where. Roller cam and lifter packages start close to 900-1000. Roller rockers are 500-600. Thats 1600 before motor work. You know things add up fast but id def do forged setup w billet main and if you dont want to.spend that money the very least billet main.caps w arp hardware.
Similar thing happened to me.I.bit the bullet and just had a rebuild done w a long block. It was a pretty penny but time.wise was worth it..went w a tr machine shop.and called it a day. Im actually happy I.did evennthough the builds not done. It helps me sleep at night

Yep...set a budget...Xtimes it by 2....then add 50%...
Honestly...that's about the truth. If you do $3000 worth of goodies on the engine...you can count on another $3000 for a tranny and Convertor....and then $1500 in a good set of axles, posi and tires.