Radio Flyer
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2004
- Messages
- 16
So who wants to whoop on some imports....playing the game their way? I'll admit to owning an old school WRX that I'm also fixing up. This little gem I picked up off a buddy on a hunch it was something special for 200 bucks. After some work, she gets 30mpg. After some research...it also looks like a very potent sleeper. Behold! The dumpiest, most laughable station wagon to ever get it's own webpage. (%^$*ing water based GM paint )
What makes her special is this....
Anyone recognize that block? For those who just want it laid out, It's a 3.8 Buick block. There's the factory SFI "red-dot" manifold, a #25524139 engine block with #8445 heads. My best guess is this engine came out of a 85 FWD Century...or something like that. The #'s I got off the block were the important part. I still don't believe what's under there...or why the hell they ever put an HEI on it...
This is all part of starting my business tweaking cars and doing some custom work (been a hobbyist for 12 years...I'm now 26 working on diploma #4 in CAD design ) My garage at home is almost finished, and I admit to my life being one big learning process with cars. It needed room for a press, grinder, welder, hoist, stand, etc...
So...what's the car got to do with it?
It can be stripped to nearly 2000lbs. Even though it's FWD, there's the same advantage as other fronties with it's light weight. The only real weak spot is the T-125C tranny. But, stripping off most of the weight will help a good bit. It's only a matter of time before something blows anyway. The math comes into play when I only need 200hp to break into the 13's with the stripped chassis. 11's at that same weight would only take 275hp. Believe it or not, I've found damn near everything I need for it, except a few things. I've even got the suspension tuning covered, which is more crucial to fast strip times in a frontie-powered car.
#1...I'm not sure what to do about the ECU. I'd like to keep the stock one and just fiddle with it to learn more about EFI systems. I'll post the ECU part # in a few days. But if anyone knows one of these like the back of their hand, please speak up.
#2...Just how much HP and TQ could I expect with a stock short block, ported and matched heads and intake, new cam and lifters, ignition, roller rockers, headers, and exhaust WITHOUT a turbo or S/C? Being such a light car, keep in mind it will need less to make it fast. I'm basically thinking of a "built" low compression engine ready for boost at any time . I just wanna see how fast it'll go before I boost it. Remember...it'll only 2200lbs-ish with driver and fuel.
Most of the speed will come from the vehicle's stripped weight. AS part of my learning process, I'm converting her to a 2 door "post" station wagon, reminiscent of old 40's and 50's rods. Paint will be a deep candy maroon color, with all the body trimming gone along with the roof rack.
So...let 'em fly!!! Before you accuse me...yes I'm crazy, and no I don't do drugs....
What makes her special is this....
Anyone recognize that block? For those who just want it laid out, It's a 3.8 Buick block. There's the factory SFI "red-dot" manifold, a #25524139 engine block with #8445 heads. My best guess is this engine came out of a 85 FWD Century...or something like that. The #'s I got off the block were the important part. I still don't believe what's under there...or why the hell they ever put an HEI on it...
This is all part of starting my business tweaking cars and doing some custom work (been a hobbyist for 12 years...I'm now 26 working on diploma #4 in CAD design ) My garage at home is almost finished, and I admit to my life being one big learning process with cars. It needed room for a press, grinder, welder, hoist, stand, etc...
So...what's the car got to do with it?
It can be stripped to nearly 2000lbs. Even though it's FWD, there's the same advantage as other fronties with it's light weight. The only real weak spot is the T-125C tranny. But, stripping off most of the weight will help a good bit. It's only a matter of time before something blows anyway. The math comes into play when I only need 200hp to break into the 13's with the stripped chassis. 11's at that same weight would only take 275hp. Believe it or not, I've found damn near everything I need for it, except a few things. I've even got the suspension tuning covered, which is more crucial to fast strip times in a frontie-powered car.
#1...I'm not sure what to do about the ECU. I'd like to keep the stock one and just fiddle with it to learn more about EFI systems. I'll post the ECU part # in a few days. But if anyone knows one of these like the back of their hand, please speak up.
#2...Just how much HP and TQ could I expect with a stock short block, ported and matched heads and intake, new cam and lifters, ignition, roller rockers, headers, and exhaust WITHOUT a turbo or S/C? Being such a light car, keep in mind it will need less to make it fast. I'm basically thinking of a "built" low compression engine ready for boost at any time . I just wanna see how fast it'll go before I boost it. Remember...it'll only 2200lbs-ish with driver and fuel.
Most of the speed will come from the vehicle's stripped weight. AS part of my learning process, I'm converting her to a 2 door "post" station wagon, reminiscent of old 40's and 50's rods. Paint will be a deep candy maroon color, with all the body trimming gone along with the roof rack.
So...let 'em fly!!! Before you accuse me...yes I'm crazy, and no I don't do drugs....