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Lousy quarter mile performance

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Would you race your Buick GN?

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My almost stock GN at 3710#'s on slicks, pump 93 E10 I could only get a 13.008 at 104.0 mph in good air. Usually it was 13.3 at 102-103 through the stock airbox. Had adj wastegate, TT 5.6 chip and adj FP reg, gutted cat. Boost was 16-17 psi at most.
 
If your car is stock, as in actually stock, then PARK IT YESTERDAY.

You're valve springs are weak, your fuel pump sucks, your power wire to the pump is substandard, your wastegate hoses are rotten, your MAF is most likely a POS, and there are soooo much more.

Beating on a stock GN that's 1/3 of a CENTURY old is a 1 way ticket to deciding turbo engines suck and dropping in a tree fiddy to ''go fast''.
 
C'mon now slix..........lots of feedback for ya, so what did it run?

From Philly Pa. First time racing a Buick at the track.

Car seems pretty stock and what few speed parts (ie kn filter, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, gauges, injectors and unknown chip) are probably 25/30 years old...

Best run was 15.139 @95.13 on radials. Bad 60' times... 2.611
 
If your car is stock, as in actually stock, then PARK IT YESTERDAY.

You're valve springs are weak, your fuel pump sucks, your power wire to the pump is substandard, your wastegate hoses are rotten, your MAF is most likely a POS, and there are soooo much more.

Beating on a stock GN that's 1/3 of a CENTURY old is a 1 way ticket to deciding turbo engines suck and dropping in a tree fiddy to ''go fast''.

Ok where should I start now so I can go back in the spring and run the car?
 
Ok where should I start now so I can go back in the spring and run the car?
First off , what do you have for gauges ? You NEED a Scanmaster & fuel pressure guage . Start with changing all vacuum hoses and zip tie all hose connections . Install a hot wire kit & a 10 ga. ground wire from battery to the pump harness at the back of the car . Stay out of the throttle until you know your engine vitals or you will get good at changing head gaskets . Start there and good luck , keep us posted . Sam
 
First off , what do you have for gauges ? You NEED a Scanmaster & fuel pressure guage . Start with changing all vacuum hoses and zip tie all hose connections . Install a hot wire kit & a 10 ga. ground wire from battery to the pump harness at the back of the car . Stay out of the throttle until you know your engine vitals or you will get good at changing head gaskets . Start there and good luck , keep us posted . Sam

Have a powerlogger installed but having issues seeing the log files.

The fuel rail has a fuel pressure gauge installed.

Not sure best type of vacuum line to use? Silicone or just regular vacuum line?
 
To get your powerlogger sorted out , go to the Electronics section / Scan Tool Tech and post up your problem there . I'm sure Bob Bailey will come to the rescue since he invented it and probably knows a thing or two about it .
Not sure best type of vacuum line to use? Silicone or just regular vacuum line?
Either or both will do , it's more important to zip tie the connections because many also see boost pressure and can pop off . Also there are a few check valves in those lines , make sure they pass air in one direction only .
The fuel rail has a fuel pressure gauge installed.
That is good for setting base pressure , but you can't see the pressure during boost which is very important . A in cabin fuel pressure gauge is in you future with a scanmaster to monitor knock retard & O2 readings while it's happening not just on a log afterwards . Scanmaster first , they come up in the Parts for Sale section all the time , or post in the Parts Wanted section .
 
To get your powerlogger sorted out , go to the Electronics section / Scan Tool Tech and post up your problem there . I'm sure Bob Bailey will come to the rescue since he invented it and probably knows a thing or two about it .

Ok

[/QUOTE] Either or both will do , it's more important to zip tie the connections because many also see boost pressure and can pop off . Also there are a few check valves in those lines , make sure they pass air in one direction only[/QUOTE]

Didn't see any check valves on vacuum lines on the engine...

[/QUOTE]That is good for setting base pressure , but you can't see the pressure during boost which is very important . A in cabin fuel pressure gauge is in you future with a scanmaster to monitor knock retard & O2 readings while it's happening not just on a log afterwards . Scanmaster first , they come up in the Parts for Sale section all the time , or post in the Parts Wanted section .[/QUOTE]

Ok I'll get a fuel pressure gauge. It has a knock sensor on the a pillar. The old turbo 6 style. No scanmaster thou just the powerlogger... Guess I need one of them too.
 
If your car is stock, as in actually stock, then PARK IT YESTERDAY.

You're valve springs are weak, your fuel pump sucks, your power wire to the pump is substandard, your wastegate hoses are rotten, your MAF is most likely a POS, and there are soooo much more.

Beating on a stock GN that's 1/3 of a CENTURY old is a 1 way ticket to deciding turbo engines suck and dropping in a tree fiddy to ''go fast''.
This is the best advise you could ever, ever, EVER! get if your a newbie Buick guy.
But don't worry. There's tons of potential and if you love these cars they are worth the effort.
 
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