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More problems, Ignition this time?

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Buickforlife

Tyler Northcutt
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
377
I fixed the boost issue, and now the car stumbles and almost dies when I try to brake boost. I can get the car moving, and until about 2500-3000 rpm then it will start stumbling. I am not sure what it is, but I think it could be the coil pack. Is there a way to test the coil pack?
 
Take the coil pack off of the ign module by removing torx screws and unplugging spade wire connections underneath (remember where the wires go!). Check resistance across the bottom connectors, should be <1 Ohm for paired connections (across from each other), and open circuit to unpaired connections. On HV side you should get ~12-13 kOhm for pairs and open circuit everywhere else. Also should be open circuit from HV side to input voltage side. If this all looks good, its probably ign module, or connector, or (???), although coil packs can have intermittent operational problems and still cold test ok (i don't think this is common).

Caspers also has a slick ignition spark tester that allows you to test the system under load and figure out if and where it is bad - $120. Other people will have to comment on its usefulness.

if your module is bad you might consider Type II ignition module switch. Parts are in the junkyard - coils are everywhere and have advantage of being modular pairs rather than all coils in one pack.

i recently tested mine because 2-5 cylinders getting no spark. swapping wires showed me the coil pack was ok, but ign module not sending low voltage to coil pack. coil pack tested ok with above test. now i'm looking for a Type II ign module.
 
Take the coil pack off of the ign module by removing torx screws and unplugging spade wire connections underneath (remember where the wires go!). Check resistance across the bottom connectors, should be <1 Ohm for paired connections (across from each other), and open circuit to unpaired connections. On HV side you should get ~12-13 kOhm for pairs and open circuit everywhere else. Also should be open circuit from HV side to input voltage side. If this all looks good, its probably ign module, or connector, or (???), although coil packs can have intermittent operational problems and still cold test ok (i don't think this is common).

Caspers also has a slick ignition spark tester that allows you to test the system under load and figure out if and where it is bad - $120. Other people will have to comment on its usefulness.

if your module is bad you might consider Type II ignition module switch. Parts are in the junkyard - coils are everywhere and have advantage of being modular pairs rather than all coils in one pack.

i recently tested mine because 2-5 cylinders getting no spark. swapping wires showed me the coil pack was ok, but ign module not sending low voltage to coil pack. coil pack tested ok with above test. now i'm looking for a Type II ign module.

Thanks for the information. What should I look out for for the Type II ignition module switch?
 
One thing I forgot to mention, I had pulled a spark plug to look at it to make sure it was not fouled, and I forgot to put the spark plug wire back on, I cranked it over, and heard it arcing, so I shut it off immediately. I think that could have damaged the coil.
 
I replaced the coil, and it does the exact same thing. It stumbles when I try to brake boost it, and when I am driving it stumbles. Anybody have any idea what could cause this other than the coil? Could it be the ignition module?
 
Will a failed ignition module cause the problems that I am having?

a few things can cause that.. bad fuel pump make sure you have good fp under a load.also any vacuume leaks and leaks in the intecooler hoses,but i would bet $$$$ that is is the module. but there is no telling for certain.. mine would pop at 8#s of boost so i replaced the coil and nothing changed so i replaced the module and it worked.. the module tested good so watch out for that its under a load that it fails and a tester will not test under a load.....i have them for sale if you need
 
One thing I forgot to mention, I had pulled a spark plug to look at it to make sure it was not fouled, and I forgot to put the spark plug wire back on, I cranked it over, and heard it arcing, so I shut it off immediately. I think that could have damaged the coil.

no that will not hurt anything.. and it sounds like you loading up on fuel check the f pressure
 
a few things can cause that.. bad fuel pump make sure you have good fp under a load.also any vacuume leaks and leaks in the intecooler hoses,but i would bet $$$$ that is is the module. but there is no telling for certain.. mine would pop at 8#s of boost so i replaced the coil and nothing changed so i replaced the module and it worked.. the module tested good so watch out for that its under a load that it fails and a tester will not test under a load.....i have them for sale if you need

Well, it ended up being the turbo inlet hose after the MAF sensor was not tight, and there was a gap on the bottom of it that I couldn't see. At least I now have a spare coil just in case.
 
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