Motion Raceworks 2 Stage Air/Oil Separator?

[OKTurbo]

Just posted a YouTube video showing the Pcv upgrades I made.

 

[Pronto]

Looks like it should work good. If you can find straight M1, I would run that rather than the orange low temp windshield washer fluid.

 

[OKTurbo]

Looks like it should work good. If you can find straight M1, I would run that rather than the orange low temp windshield washer fluid.

It’s actually Snow Performance Boost Juice….a step above washer fluid, but not by much. it’s mostly a street car and I don’t like a plastic jug of straight methanol under the hood when I’m just cruising around. The 50/50 mix is still good for detonation control. I do add a yellow container of ‘heet’ from time to time.

 

[Pronto]

Years ago my fuel pump popped the fuse right as I started to get into boost. I ran on alky only for about 2 seconds. It was enough to hurt a head gasket. Took all summer for it finally show it was toast but if it was less that straight M1 it would have blown right there. That's one reason I run straight M1.

 

[OKTurbo]

The PCV upgrades seemed to have fixed the high idle BLM issue. Still need to put some more miles on it before I know for sure.

Here’s a few pics after I cleaned up the driver’s side valve cover connection. Both valve covers are teed together before the catch can, then connected to the MAF pipe.

 

[1984 t-type]

Guys, your over thinking. Don't reinvent what they already laid out for you. The top of the Can says VAC (this should go to your PCV) and the other says Crank (this should go to either side of your valve cover, preferably the passenger side on a Turbo Buick). The final hose will go from your drivers side valve cover to the turbo inlet pipe.

So just want to make sure I got this right. I have a gen 6 Mighty Mouse catch can I will be installing which is basically the same as the motion raceworks dual stage can. Based off the pic you posted I just run the drivers side valve cover to the cold air tube (I’m MAFless) run the pass side valve cover to the catch can crank, and the catch can vac to the factory Pcv valve location minus the Pcv valve since the new cans have it built in (or any other intake vacuum source) and job done. No other valve cover breathers needed ?

 

[OKTurbo]

So just want to make sure I got this right. I have a gen 6 Mighty Mouse catch can I will be installing which is basically the same as the motion raceworks dual stage can. Based off the pic you posted I just run the drivers side valve cover to the cold air tube (I’m MAFless) run the pass side valve cover to the catch can crank, and the catch can vac to the factory Pcv valve location minus the Pcv valve since the new cans have it built in (or any other intake vacuum source) and job done. No other valve cover breathers needed ?

Yes. That should do it. I'm not familar with the Mighty Mouse can, but the Motion can is "active" in that when under boost, the check valve closes on the vacuum source (now under pressure) and the vent will still vent the valve covers if blowby builds up pressure in the crankcase.

Just make sure you're mighty mouse catch can will still vent under boost. The rest looks good. You'll have good positive crankcase ventilation under normal driving and the makeup air into the valve covers is filtered from your cold air pipe.

I'm still using the stock pcv valve so I know it has the "correct" orifice for venting the crankcase.