Motor advice for my T-Type

[Kjun]

Looking for a reputable builder to build me a 109 longblock that will last. I just spun a rod bearing in my third build (I built it). I followed all advice, built it to Buick specs. Proper break-in followed.....and I wasn't real hard on it.......the tune seemed good. I'm no novice to engines, but I just can't seem to keep these V-6's together. Over the past 6 years, it's spent 5 years under a car cover -broken-. I'd like to finally drive the thing.

I'm looking for a build that will take a low 11 second run.....no exotic parts. I'd consider a newer rotating assembly.......to re-use 25 years old cranks and rods seems a waste of cash. I'm looking for reliability above all. I really love this thing and I'm tempted to just throw a mild single turbo'd 305 SBC EFI with Vortec heads in the thing for reliability alone. Please talk me out of it........SBC's seem very wrong in a real Turbo Buick somehow.

Thanks in advance.

 

[jasjamz]

Where are you located? No need for forged cranks and rods for a low 11 sec goal. That is the waste of money. Spent that cash on ported iron heads and intake. Get a small hydraulic roller cam to lessen the chance of a wiped lobe. Have it assembled by the person you pick from here. It should arrive in a crate throttle body to oil pan and water pump pulley to flexplate. Oil filter on and and primed.
$5000
Have them assist you on having the right converter and a solid transmission. $3000 max. Be sure the cars fuel system is up to the task. Easy $800 there. Invest in a Scanmaster if you don't have one. Now make sure you have an open mind and wallet. Don't argue with them about what your uncles friends cousins brother said and don't change your goal half way through the build because a guy at work wants to race you with his brothers SBC with nitrous when its done. Now the other odds and ends will eat another $2000 before you know it but the car should be done at this point. Small block and Turbo....not a bad idea. However if you have failed to get this right 3 times and the internet has had this information posted for years your chances of getting that right on the first try are even worse. Now people can post links for you to read learn and help you make a few calls to come up with a more exact price and a final decision. And before you're told stock long blocks can go low elevens and high tens yeah that can happen but ported heads and intake will help. Oh and you may see this too... Fast, cheap, reliable.....pick two!

Oh and I almost forgot, welcome to The board and Turbo Buicks!

 

[kidglok]

X2 Great advice

 

[87chrisss]

instead of paying someone why dont you use the information on the engines you have damaged and better yourself your doing something wrong? rod bearing failures are mostly the result of lack of lubrication.. could be other things..11 sec car is not hard buy a stock motor big injectors big turbo exhaust and a good tranny you be in the 11's i dont think paying someone is always the best thing to do i personally would gather all my information on what has happened in the past and put it together to better my engine building skills..something is wrong paying someone is an easier way out but then if something happens to that motor guess what no warranty on racing.. then what?

 

[Reggie West]

Where are y ou located?

 

[Kjun]

I'm in Calgary, Canada. But I have a shipping address Montana.

Current set-up includes...... a Pat's 3400 10" L/U converter, Hooker Cat-back, PT-63, 60lb. Siemens injectors, TT Chip for 60's on Alky, 255 Walbro hotwired, Alky Control, THDP, Cold air intake, RJC Power Plate, stock intercooler, Scan Master 2.2, and a built Stage 2 transmission from a builder in New York (CP rings a bell ????)........and a few other things.

I don't want to spend too much...............my wife will kill me.

 

[ZNix]

Turbo Buick Blocks

They have strokers, stock strokes, almost anything you need.

Nix

 

[Nick Micale]

.............I'm looking for a build that will take a low 11 second run.....no exotic parts. I'd consider a newer rotating assembly.......to re-use 25 years old cranks and rods seems a waste of cash. I'm looking for reliability above all. I really love this thing .......

Thanks in advance.

Your plan looks to be a very good one.

We have learned from hundreds of GN builds, as well a many hundreds of V-6 engine builds, that the smart thing to do is build beyond the limit of your proposed performance level for reliability and dependability. For a low 11 sec. performance, build a low 10 sec. engine.

I also did not think it is smart to use a 25 year old cast crank in a new performance build when low cost forged cranks are available. For a few hundred $$$ more than a used cast crank, you will have much more confidence when spending thousands of $$$$ on a fresh build.

I have seen a cast, stock crank explode on a 13 sec. run and ruin the block and trans.

As far as you building the short block, that is absurd unless you "think" you are more qualified than an experienced, expert machinist with the proper tools that does this everyday for a living?

For a few hundred $$$ over the parts and machine labor cost, you then have confidence and warranty with it staying together.

 

[Reggie West]

Nick would be the guy I would send your motor to. He will do it right the first time and he may be able to give some feedback on why your current motor did not hold up.

 

[bison]

I'm looking for reliability above all.

Reliability doesnt come from new parts or spending more necessarily. You could spend more to get parts that will potentially be more reliable when you start to push it but at your desired power levels stock parts will last years. Even 25 year old stock parts.

I don't want to spend too much...............my wife will kill me.

You might want to reconsider your hobby. No matter what you are still looking for performance well above a stock car. Things will break. If you have any hang ups with that then leave the car alone. You should find out why your first 3 failed. Maybe post up pictures of the failed parts or pics comparing the other parts that havent failed. Maybe you have a detonation issue. Ive heard of balancers with the ring being off 10* and the car blowing head gaskets within the first 300' multiple times because the person(s) working on it werent aware that the balancer could be a problem. Stock short blocks are cheap and plentiful. You should get your issues ironed out and run one of them for a year before you decide to spend 5-$10k on a hard core engine.

 

[huntsg]

Your original post requested a reputable builder. I recommend Don Cruz. He is located in Tampa Florida and will take care of you.

 

[Kjun]

Reliability doesnt come from new parts or spending more necessarily. You could spend more to get parts that will potentially be more reliable when you start to push it but at your desired power levels stock parts will last years. Even 25 year old stock parts.You might want to reconsider your hobby. No matter what you are still looking for performance well above a stock car. Things will break. If you have any hang ups with that then leave the car alone. You should find out why your first 3 failed. Maybe post up pictures of the failed parts or pics comparing the other parts that havent failed. Maybe you have a detonation issue. Ive heard of balancers with the ring being off 10* and the car blowing head gaskets within the first 300' multiple times because the person(s) working on it werent aware that the balancer could be a problem. Stock short blocks are cheap and plentiful. You should get your issues ironed out and run one of them for a year before you decide to spend 5-$10k on a hard core engine.

I'm one of those guys who loves these cars, but is having a hard time pouring more and more cash into the project. Where does it end? I guess it ends when I stop breaking stuff.

Unfortunately the GN scene where I'm from is rather sparse.......there are mabey 2 of these cars in my Central Alberta town (Red Deer) of 100,000, and I'm one of them. Good tuners are non-existant, and there are few owners to learn from. Almost no one is in the 12's with these cars in Alberta....most are running sad high 14's at the Friday night racetrack scene....and you might see one TB a month run in the summer. I'd like to keep up with the mid-range stuff comming out of Detroit, but when my wifes minivan puts out 285 h.p.....it getting harder.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure then bottom ends of my builds weren't up to snuff, so I'm looking for a reasonably priced shortblock with a front cover and oil pump installed so I can eliminate my questionable talents building Buick shortblocks. The alternative is to let the car rot in my shop..........it's been there long enough. IMO there is nothing that has ever come out of a car factory that can match the experience of driving a TB.

R.

 

[3-5.0]

Shirley,someone in Calgary or Edmonton must be able to build these things,and like,I mean a pro shop?. I ran into this same dilemma where you're looking at crate engines and they are 75% or more the cost of the whole damn car. I've also had cars sitting for long periods and I came to the conclusion speed is secondary to having a running,enjoyable car to drive around. I know I know,get 'er done you can have both but sometimes its weighing dollars and cents.

 

[Vince13]

I had Campbell Automotive in Edmonton build mine. I just got the car together this fall so no trips to the track yet.
So far I have been happy with what they did. I had a an issue getting it started but it was injector related, not anything to do with their work. They were great to deal with.

Let me know if you want more info.

Good luck.