MSD Electronic Boost Controller
- Thread starter SPOT MY 6
- Start date
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I use it now and it works great ONCE ITS DIALED IN. You also have to like working on a laptop beacuse everything you can do with it has to be done on the laptop. I street race my car a lot so one thing I can do is ramp the boost in over time after I let go of the transbrake sort of like a traction control device if I am on a road that doesn't work as good. The solenoid control values are kind of hard to get dialed in but it keeps boost very steady. I would definitly not recommend it if you do not have the time or patientce to mess with a laptop. BTW, I am using a Tial 44mm wastgate and it keeps boost steady in any range from 15psi to 32psi.
Sam Colalillo
low 9's w/ a 109
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1,469
Spot my 6
Looking for an update on this boost controller, do you still give it the thumbs up?
Question, I will be running a three bar MAP, can I just tap into that one for the boost controller, or do I have to install another MAP that would be dedicated to this controller.
I read up on it, I like what I read. Might take me a little while to get the proportional integral derivative values figured out, but it looks like it would be fun to play around with. Most of all, It is so cheap for what all it does.
Fuzzy GN,
Have you messed around with yours any more, how do you like it?
Looking for an update on this boost controller, do you still give it the thumbs up?
Question, I will be running a three bar MAP, can I just tap into that one for the boost controller, or do I have to install another MAP that would be dedicated to this controller.
I read up on it, I like what I read. Might take me a little while to get the proportional integral derivative values figured out, but it looks like it would be fun to play around with. Most of all, It is so cheap for what all it does.
Fuzzy GN,
Have you messed around with yours any more, how do you like it?
Yes you can tap into your existing MAP sensor which is what I did. One thing you need to read up on is the difference between PSIA and PSIG. PSIA is absolute pressure, and PSIG is boost gauge pressure. When you program the software it is in PSIA (30psi is about 44psia). Ill have to check my laptop to see what I have the PID values at and will let you know.
Hawaiian Turbo
POWER'D BY BUD LIGHT
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- May 25, 2001
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- 1,547
32 pounds !!!!! 
wagon said:
Once someone is at that level, you need a laptop for other things. Used laptops are cheap, my guess even less expensive than the service tool you mentioned. However it is cool that they give us a choice.
i think I'll look into a MSD myself, the in car valve for my Deltagate sucks.
Sam Colalillo
low 9's w/ a 109
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1,469
Thanks for the update
Thanks for the reply. You seem to be pretty pleased with this product. You probably have a couple different boost programs set up for your car, one for street, one for kill mode, ect. The next time you are on your laptop let me know what you have your PID values set at. Do you use different PID values for different Max PSI, or once you get the PID values figured out do they stay virtually the same, and you just chnage the PSIA values?
Thanks for being so helpfull, I am really tempted to purchase this product. I think the price is going to go up once it becomes more popular. Currently this thing is available at Summit for just under two hundred dollars, and sold for 254.00 at many other places. (Summit has it listed for 254 on their website, but when you call they give you the more desireable price.)
SPOT MY 6 said:
Thanks for the reply. You seem to be pretty pleased with this product. You probably have a couple different boost programs set up for your car, one for street, one for kill mode, ect. The next time you are on your laptop let me know what you have your PID values set at. Do you use different PID values for different Max PSI, or once you get the PID values figured out do they stay virtually the same, and you just chnage the PSIA values?
Thanks for being so helpfull, I am really tempted to purchase this product. I think the price is going to go up once it becomes more popular. Currently this thing is available at Summit for just under two hundred dollars, and sold for 254.00 at many other places. (Summit has it listed for 254 on their website, but when you call they give you the more desireable price.)
SPOT MY 6 said:
I take it that you tapped into a 3 bar map that you are using for a aftermarket ECM. I thought of doing this but was leary of corrupting the data for my FAST system. Also did you have to use an adapter for the tach. imput like some of the other MSD products do?
Sam,
My PID values are 18, 0, 13 respectively. The manual shows 40,0,40 I believe but I found that the soelinoids would stay in saturation for too long causing spikes. My boost is very steady now and I leave the values the same for any boost level. I am using a Tial 44mm wastegate so Im sure if you are using something different it will need different vaules. Im sure the wastegate spring pressure is also very important. I have the big blue one in mine (not sure of weight but I think 15lbs?).
The ONLY thing I am still tweaking is the spoolup. It starts opening the soelinoids at about 15psi but doesnt really start to bleed off until the low 20's. I need to get them to stay completely shut until about 28psi then open. If I can do this my 60' times will be even better and the car will leave more ignorant. Hope this helps.
MAX PSI - Yes I just spliced into my BS3's MAP sensor. Not a single problem and I have a LOT of passes on the car like this.
My PID values are 18, 0, 13 respectively. The manual shows 40,0,40 I believe but I found that the soelinoids would stay in saturation for too long causing spikes. My boost is very steady now and I leave the values the same for any boost level. I am using a Tial 44mm wastegate so Im sure if you are using something different it will need different vaules. Im sure the wastegate spring pressure is also very important. I have the big blue one in mine (not sure of weight but I think 15lbs?).
The ONLY thing I am still tweaking is the spoolup. It starts opening the soelinoids at about 15psi but doesnt really start to bleed off until the low 20's. I need to get them to stay completely shut until about 28psi then open. If I can do this my 60' times will be even better and the car will leave more ignorant. Hope this helps.
MAX PSI - Yes I just spliced into my BS3's MAP sensor. Not a single problem and I have a LOT of passes on the car like this.
Sam Colalillo
low 9's w/ a 109
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 1,469
Soon to be the owner of a 7562
Thanks again for the info SPOT MY 6. WOW you are going to try to leave the line on 28psi . That is going to feel like you got rear ended by a garbage truck traveling 60mph 
, or are you trying to get the boost to ramp up to 28psi?
I don’t consider it a big deal that you can not adjust your boost on the fly inside the car. When the tank is loaded with race gas I am going to be running more advance and more boost. I can’t adjust those values on the fly. The lap top is gonna have to be hooked up anyway. After dialing in the FAST, I’ll just go into the MSD software and dial in the higher boost level.
I am glad that once you figure out the PID values they pretty much stay the same, it seems like this going to be the most challenging part of the system.
One other thing, circuit 128 (RPM output)(white wire off the ignition control module or the test lead left front valve cover) is the circuit that I have my Tach hooked up to. Other people have told me I needed some type of a translator to run my Tach. I am not using one. I just tapped into circuit 128. Is this how you are getting your Tach signal to the boost controller? You just spliced right into circuit 128 and directly to the controller right?
I am convinced this is the way to go. This summer I will be running it on our Buick.
Thanks again for the info SPOT MY 6. WOW you are going to try to leave the line on 28psi
. That is going to feel like you got rear ended by a garbage truck traveling 60mph , or are you trying to get the boost to ramp up to 28psi?I don’t consider it a big deal that you can not adjust your boost on the fly inside the car. When the tank is loaded with race gas I am going to be running more advance and more boost. I can’t adjust those values on the fly. The lap top is gonna have to be hooked up anyway. After dialing in the FAST, I’ll just go into the MSD software and dial in the higher boost level.
I am glad that once you figure out the PID values they pretty much stay the same, it seems like this going to be the most challenging part of the system.
One other thing, circuit 128 (RPM output)(white wire off the ignition control module or the test lead left front valve cover) is the circuit that I have my Tach hooked up to. Other people have told me I needed some type of a translator to run my Tach. I am not using one. I just tapped into circuit 128. Is this how you are getting your Tach signal to the boost controller? You just spliced right into circuit 128 and directly to the controller right?
I am convinced this is the way to go. This summer I will be running it on our Buick.
