my 80 regal limited

A whole bunch of stuff, no budget build.
well no not a no budget build cause budgets rarely work out but it is a limited funding build believe you me if there were no funding limits id have a schwartz performance frame an all aluminum stage 2 engine NA engine tremec tko600 or some kind of dog box an alot of other bad ass parts hettin those aluminum heads dug a super big hole in my budget so yeah and i had my doubts about actually gettin them cause of the low power levels i will be at measly 350-400 horse area dosent require alu heads but i decided screw it so i have that weak N/A block and a GN bottom end except the probe pistons all the big money transactions are done now from now on it will be spending the money from my pay check saving up money etc AKA now the brakes are on but i have enough parts top do alot or work
 
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Crazy fun build though. Long way to the end yet but it's much progress completed.
 
yeah after all these years if it being in pieces its awesome to see it come together again and you and dr,frankenstein and charlie and others have been a big help on advice after you guys corrupted me a and turned me to the dark side
 
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some more parts solid body mounts heater delete and a upper control arm mount frame brace and for the sake of overkill i added a brace to the brace well plan on adding but you see the cardboard template
 

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new load of parts [
 

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pics from balancing and showing the rod bend
 

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I hope you get to see the light at the end of the tunnel! This project started in 2010. You have a whole bunch of work going on.
 
yeah i know its been slooooow going project and with some critical things outa the way the less pain in the ass work can start
 
little progress sins last postings its been slow but its better then nothing the aluminum heads have been dismanteled and cc`d ready for the machinist found some front seats moved to a new work shop spway bar endlinks for rear made and front once from spohn performance welded in a reinforcement/repair plate on by the spring pocket so i can make use of that body mount location so tis a bolted mount instead of nothing at all engine is slowly being assembeled
 

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I see you've added a lot of support to the rear axle. What are the two single hole vertical brackets for right above the Hellwig traction bar?
 
a small update the shortblock is finished the head have been rebuildt waiting on valvestem seals so they can be reassembeled and put on the block with arp studs

bought a set of cruz performance pulleys made a turbo oil return at the fuel pump location
b body spindles painted and the 12" rotors and wilwood GM 3 calipers mounted
converted the TA performance headers from T4E flange to T3 flange
made some rear antiswaybar endlinks (friend welded for me) also a oil catch tank
 

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the endlink only one at the moment sins i dident have a second rodend on hand where i took the pic and borrowed a tap to retap the threads after welding
 

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The gussets on the top of the rear axle. I was assuming that that housing and tubes were cast iron. Anything special with welding those 2 together? I just finished up my rear discs and am getting ready to install. The read end is still literally sitting on the welding table and this might be an easy addition. I was planning on welding the tubes to the pumpkin whenever it warms up.
 
The gussets on the top of the rear axle. I was assuming that that housing and tubes were cast iron. Anything special with welding those 2 together? I just finished up my rear discs and am getting ready to install. The read end is still literally sitting on the welding table and this might be an easy addition. I was planning on welding the tubes to the pumpkin whenever it warms up.
the tubes are regular steel and the center is cast iron and you need special rods for welding mild steel to cast iron but on the axle tubes you can use a regular mig welder i used a propane camp stove to pre heat the whole rearend wrapped the axle with fireproof house insulation while heating removed it while welding and put it back on afterwards and had the camp stove under it i put the axle on some jack stands with the pinion end of the housing pointing upwards and the campe stove very close to the center housing i dont remember the pre heat temp but you can ask that at the weld supply store when you buy the nickle rods or wich ever they recommend you use
 
UMI front frame brace and champion racing heads alternator and P/S pump bracket
 

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lookin more and more like an engine the heads went together and mounted yesterday after the spring locators were thinned down .080" so the valvestem seals would go propperly on the guides but still enough meat to hold the spring in place followed by the oil marinaded lifters went in and today the intake went on after alittle shorterning of some of the arp intake bolts wich were deffinetly not intended for the edelbrock intake BUT adapt and overcome also ordered pushrods its beginning to be a mix of stuff LS beehive springs in ford v8 pushrods for oilpressure sensor extention for the oilfeed and pressure sensor
 

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